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When I take off or when my car is in gear (94 integra), I get this clicking that turns into a louder knocking. Throughout all the gears. Doesn't really do it when I first start the car but it does after a mile or two. Sounds like it's in my front end drivers side to middle, somewhere in that area. I know it's not the cv joints.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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That is the classic symptoms of CV joints that are worn of damaged. Are the existing ones new. Can you see any splits in the rubber boots that may have let water and grit in causing premature failure? Is the knocking dependent on engine speed or road speed, does it get louder when the engine revs fast, or when the car is traveling fast?

Posted on Nov 24, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

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1 Answer

Clicking in steering column


Sounds like you are sure it is out side. Just want to mention I have change out 2 actuators in my Chrysler 200. They start clicking, it is the plastic gears slipping. I would hear them and then I did not. They control the vent, A/C and heating ducts/air under the dash. They can be soft and sometimes loud. Do not know if this helps but I listened to the clicking a couple months before I started to check it out. The plastic gear turn on plastic shafts. I put Dorman in and it is plastic gear on steal shaft, at least the actuators I put in.

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When I go at about 40miles(speed ) it's a loud the gears don't stick but the higher the speed the louder it get's need to kind of know what to tell a mechanic is to where to start to look.I doesn't


I would suspect it is a wheel bearing issue, if it sounds similar to a baseball card in the spokes of a bicycle, stays somewhat same pitch just louder with speed that is where I would look. Does noise go away or change when making turns?

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Have a 92 lincoln town car, fixed an oil leak in the oil filter adapter (changed it out with a new one), no leaks now, but when car is in gear and running, knocks loudly. When I fixed the adapter leak I...


if it is knocking in the bottom end , there is nothing that can be done to save it as it is already too late
your statement that it is in gear as well as running is a bit confusing as if it is an engine problem it would be knocking in neutral as well as in gear but louder in gear and under load
however if it only happens in gear then that means that the problem is transmission or drive line related

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Im confused on how to line up my cam gears and pulley on my 94 integra can u help me so i can put my belt back on


Here a diagram to help you with your belt installation piston #1 top dead center9b45695.gif

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Why does my 1993 Acura Integra pop out of 5th gear?


Only 2 thing cause this, worn engagement dogs on the gear pack or worn shifter parts or both, how many miles?

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1 Answer

1994 Integra RS front end noise?


Without hearing noises first hand it is very hard to diagnose.

Things to check from the description you gave:

- Heatshields/Exhaust
- Thow-out bearings will make noise depending on the clutch pedal being engaged/disengaged. The noise will come and go as you move the pedal in or release it.

I would rule out the CV joints if the noise happens while moving straight. CV joints will click while turning when they go bad.

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