Question about Cars & Trucks
I put a good fuel injector cleaner in the fuel system and also a petrol octane booster too.. Car runs ok from zero to 3000rpm but over to 4000rpm it will die to 3000 rpm on a steady rev.. Pls could u solve this problem, thanks.. Marty
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The above statement is GREAT!!! The wheel-well piece folds down across the area you need to be in. There are 2 screws to undo this part. Push it back and there is a cap that unscrews which holds the wires and socket he is talking about. Unscrew the cap, unscrew the wire and housing. The bulb comes out. You pull the wire harness off and install the new bulb. It has a triangular push-in and it has to go just right so take note of how it comes out. Also, being a halogen light bulb, do not touch the bulb with your hands - the oils will make it explode.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
You might have lost your lower gears, I would have someone look at it to see if your gears are gone or if its just a faulty sensor.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
I had the same problem with my 1999 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L V6 Convertable. It started stalling at intersections; would lose RPMs' and die while driving it; and would not start unless it sat for a few minutes. Once it started, you'd have the scenario start all over again...
I hadn't kept up my maintenance schedule like I usually do, so I did the usual; I replaced my spark plugs and wires, changed the oil and filters, ect...
Finally, after it doing the same thing and wasting a ton of time and frustration on the side of the road, I took it to a mechanic that put it on his $9,000 diagnostic machine. The verdict; CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR!
The Haynes Manual will tell you wrong on its location for the 1999 Lxi 2.5L V6 convertable; it is NOT LOCATED BEHIND THE BATTERY TRAY. The crankshaft position sensor is actually located about 4 to 6 inches below the distributor, which is about dead center of the motor, on the transaxle housing.
You do have to take off the tire and the skirt cover to get to it. I had to purchase two long socket extensions just to get to the bolt that mounts the sensor to the transaxle housing; but it was well worth the 20 bucks...
All in all, it took me three hours to find the damn thing, and then to figure out what I needed to take the old one off and get the new one installed.
The $65 dollars that I spent to find out what the problem was is worth it....
Now, the car runs better than ever....
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
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