Question about 2006 Ford Explorer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
For the 2004 Ford Sport Trac. The code is on the computer module which is barley visible by removing the defrost cover/grill under the windshield. It is secured by snap on clips, so just pry it up slowly. Look through the windshield on the passenger side just above the airbag. The module is a pale yellow color. Find the label on the unit, on the right side of the label there is a 5 digit number. That is the master code for your keyless entry, you can look in your manual for instructions for creating one of your own that will be easier to remember. You may also be able to see the module and label from under the dash with a mirror and flashlight.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
Press and hold the SELECT/RESET
control switch to select SYSTEM
CHECK when “SYSTEM CHECK /
HOLD RESET” is displayed in the
message center. Selecting this
function from the SETUP MENU
causes the message center to cycle through each of the systems being
monitored. For each of the monitored systems, the message center will
indicate either an OK message or a warning message for two seconds.
Pressing the SELECT/RESET control switch cycles the message center
through each of the systems being monitored.
The sequence of the system check report and how it appears in the
message center is as follows:
1. OIL LIFE RESET
2. CHARGING SYSTEM
3. WASHER FLUID
4. DOOR AJAR
5. EXTERIOR LAMP
6. BRAKE SYSTEM
7. PARK BRAKE
8. MILES TO EMPTY
9. FUEL LEVEL LOW (will only display if 50 miles or less to empty)
To reset the oil monitoring system to 100% after each oil change
[approximately 5,000 miles (8,000 km) or 180 days] perform the
1. Enter SYSTEM CHECK to display
“OIL XXX% RESET IF NEW”.
2. Press SELECT/RESET control
switch to display “HOLD RESET IF
3. Press and hold the
SELECT/RESET control switch for
more than 2 seconds. Oil life is set
to 100% and “OIL CHANGE SET TO
100%” is displayed.
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
it has front and rear disc brakes, disc brakes are very simple to change out. Most disc brakes have two bolts that hold them on, one on the bottom one on the top on the inside of the brake caliper, they may be an allen head, or just a bolt. Remove them counter-clockwise. After you remove the two bolts, lift up and away on the caliper and the whole assembly will come off. Once you pull the assembly off you will see the two pads, one of them is driven by a piston, the other one is fixed. Remove the fixed one, they just pop off (have little metal clips you may have to slide the pad off). Take a C-clamp or something comparable to squeeze with, place it on the back of the caliper and on the old pad thereby squeezing the cylinder back into the piston, once you squeeze the cylinder back into the piston, it will give you room needed for thicker new brake pads. Piston should retract with the c-clamp fairly easy, shouldn't be a whole lot of resistance. Remove c-clamp after you get it to retract and remove old pad. Put new pad on, just like you took the old ones off. All four are basically the same to change out, they all have two bolts holding them on. You pull those, get the pistons to retract and replace the worn pads, put them back on, line up holes, put bolts back in... and your good to go. When you get back in the car and turn the key on, you may have to pump the brakes a few times.
Posted on Nov 02, 2009
They will not loan you the tools.....how else will they continue to rip off the average garage junkie and make lots of money?
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
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