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This is a common concern on explorer, shift indicator cable breaks.if you're the diy type this is a pretty easy repair. Remove steering column cover top and bottom, and instrument bezel.you'll see shifter indicator coming out of bottom of instrument cluster and cable wrapped around steering column, attached to the shifter.you'll have to remove 4 screws for cluster,7mm, tilt the bottom of the cluster and look where indicator is attached, usually 2 7 mm bolts or clips, remove and replace indicator...if the steering column was lowered without taking off indicator cable it would break cable, or could be band that wraps around column that's loose or broken..either way cheap fix..
There are 2 models here the push button will flash if the system is not engaging or disengaging properly . If front drive shaft is turning. That is with car raised and supported . if front drive axles do not turn then the axle actuator is not engaging axle shaft passenger side. Remove actuator and manually engage shifting collar with a screwdriver still does not turn then inner axle is twisted.
Manuel engagement uses a vacuum switch on transfer case that provides vacuum to the actuator next to the battery. Electric types a transfer case motor engages the front drive shaft and a electric axle shift actuator is used to engage the axle shaft on passenger side of differential
Hello skullz, this is a fairly big task but it can be done in your driveway. Take your time, keep track of all your parts you remove. Use masking tape and a sharpie to label stuff if you feel like it will make easier to reinstall....These steps are for a 99 blazer 4x4 with an aluminum pan. You wont need to do some of the shift linkage removal due to the AWD and electronics the Olds has.
Disconnect battery and remove battery tray. Disconnect shift cable at actuator.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove underbody shield from
steering linkage and engine oil pan. Drain crankcase. Remove starter motor.
Remove oil cooler pipes and both front wheels. Disconnect
electrical connector and remove wiring harness bracket at
shift cable housing.
Remove 3 shift cable housing bolts and disconnect shift
cable from differential carrier. Remove both front drive
axles. Remove differential housing.
Remove 10 oil pan bolts, 2 nuts at crankshaft rear oil seal and remove 2 transmission to oil pan
bolts....Remove oil pan from vehicle....When you reinstall & tighten the oil pan bolts, start in the middle of the pan and go back to the bellhousing, directly across from each bolt---left, right, left right...then, from the middle towards the front of engine, right, left, right left...Torque to 18 ft/lbs
Good luck... if you tackle this job its a fun one....
It's either a vacum shift actuator, Rusty actuator cable, weak spring in side of the differential shift mechanism, TCCM (control module), switch, or vacum switch on transfer case ( start there). But all told, $980.00 in parts and $1200 in labor. Now take a deep breath as you call the tow truck to tow it to the junk yard.
Check to see if the front drive shaft is turning. If it is and the wheels are
not moving. Check the vacum actuator, located under the battery pan.
Make sure there are no leaks or kinks in the lines, do the same at the vacum solenoid valve. If these check out. Check the clutch cable from
the actuator to the front axel. Make sure it's not broken or kinked, as
the cable engages and disengages the front axel. But if the front drive
shaft is turning. And it's an electric shift control check the fuse first.
If it is transfer case related I will need to know whether it's manual or electric shift. You can get back to us with that info if neccesery.
Or if you find a problem with any of the parts I have mentioned.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
The cable from the differential to the accumulator should move somewhat freely. If it does not, then the cable
may be froze up. You can lubricate it with some penetrating oil and
work it to free it back up. You may have to remove it to free it up
properly.You may find the cable shield towards the bottom end is broke off and the cable may completely be froze up, it's common on the Blazers. You can try pulling on the rod that the cable clips into in the front
diff to disengage the front axle. If you cannot get it to engage
that way, then you will likely have to pull off the passenger side
extension housing to access the engagement collar and fork. If you cannot get it to engage by pulling on the fork in the axle, then you will likely have to disassemble it.
You will likely have to file down the leading edge of the gears. They
should be beveled on the sides of the spline to aid in engagement.
Hopefully yours is not chipped like the one in the front of my old S10.
Mine chipped the splines on the axle and split the collar from being partially engaged under power
The right axle and has splines at the end of it. The Output Shaft slides into the carrier and has large teeth on the other end. The collar it has large teeth inside it that mate with the Output Shaft with the Fork.
The collar rests on the axle, the fork wraps around the collar.
Then you push the 4x4 button or shift your transfer case into 4x4 it
starts spinning the front drive shaft, which spins the carrier and the
short shaft. Now your in 4x4, BUT the front axle needs to lock
the right axle with the carrier. A switch on the
transfer case routes engine vacuum to a diaphragm under the battery
tray, that diaphragm pulls a cable which pulls the collar and forces it over the short shaft. Now your front diff is
locked. When you take it out of 4x4 the vacuum switch closes and a
spring pushes the fork and collar off the shaft unlocking the front diff.
The problem with mine I think is that the large teeth on the Output Shaft and the inside of the collar
are worn at the tips, not allowing them to join together, and the more
I drove it around with it clicking, thinking it would lock eventually
it just wore the tip of the teeth more.
If that is the problem, You should not have to mess with the differential case. You should be
able to get the passenger axle extension tube off, but it may require
popping a ball joint, then disconnecting the CV shaft from the axle
extension tube, which would allow you to then pull the extension tube.
Good luck and hope it's just the shift cable retaining clip in the housing that broke.
Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
Remove the battery and battery tray.
Remove the engine air cleaner tube and the air intake resonator.
Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transaxle.
Remove the slave cylinder line-to- slave cylinder hose retaining
clip, then disconnect the slave cylinder line from the slave cylinder
hose and plug the hose.
Disconnect the ground strap from the transaxle.
Remove the tie wrap and unplug the three electrical connectors located above the transaxle.
Remove the electrical connector support bracket.
Install Engine Support Bar 014-00750 or equivalent, and attach it to the engine lifting eyes with suitable chains or cables.
Fig. Fig. 1: Install a suitable engine support bar and attach it to the engine lifting eyes-1.8L and 1.9L engines
If equipped, remove the three nuts from the left-hand engine support bracket.
Loosen the mount pivot nut and rotate the mount out of the way.
Remove the three bolts and the left-hand engine support mount.
Remove the two upper transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
Remove the inner fender splash shields.
Drain the transaxle fluid and install the drain plug.
Remove the halfshafts.
Install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH or equivalent, between the differential side gears.
Failure to install the transaxle plugs may cause the differential
side gears to become improperly positioned. If the gears become
misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle
to align them.
If equipped with the 1.8L engine, remove the intake manifold support bolts and the support.
Remove the starter motor.
Unfasten the gearshift stabilizer bar nut and washers. Remove the stabilizer bar and bracket from the transaxle.
Unfasten the shift control rod-to-transaxle bolt and nut and remove the shift control rod from the transaxle.
Remove both lower splash shields.
Unfasten the transaxle mount-to-crossmember bolts and nuts and remove the lower crossmember (rear engine support).
Position and secure a suitable transaxle jack under the transaxle.
Remove the front transaxle mount and bracket.
Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the front transaxle mount and bracket-1.8L and 1.9L engines
Remove the lower engine-to-transaxle bolts and slowly lower the transaxle out of the vehicle.
If you remove the air filter box, the Input shaft speed sensor can be seen on the top of the transmission, beneath the cable shift linkage. You'll have to remove some brackets to move some electrical cables and the like out of the way, but it's a pretty straight forward remove/install. The output sensor is also on the top of the transaxle, but further back towards the firewall. To differentiate between the two: the input shaft electrical plugs in vertically, the output shaft electrical plugs in horizontally. BE SURE to completely clean all dirt/sand/debris away from the sensors before removing them.