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Camry parking lights taillights won't turn off

Intermittent problem. Turning off motor and lights and parking lights and taillights stay on. Have to disconnect negative terminal on battery to turn them off.

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  • 2 Answers

Sounds like a sticking relay, over heating relay. check the fuse/ relay box in the engine bay there should be a headlamp relay in there.

Posted on Nov 23, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

salvidordali
  • 103 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 Accord LX is not charging the battery properly

You have a pretty good handle on the situation, but you need some help. The battery light gets it signal directly from the voltage regulator on the Alternator. The fact that it is turning on and off is indicative of a problem with the alternator and not the battery. However this is what I would do. First I would get me a little jumper test lead and hook it to the output lead of the Alternator, and check voltage between the Positive battery terminal and Alternator output lead with the engine running at high idle ( 1200rpm). This reading should be less than 0.5 Volts, any higher and you have a wiring problem in your charging circuit. Then take the a resding between the Alternator and Negitive battery post. This should be 13.5 to 14.8, if not you have a bad voltage regulator and you need a new alternator. If all this checks out then check voltage between the Alternator housing and the Negitive battery post, again the reading should be less than 0.5 volts. If higher check all your ground connections between alternator and engine and engine to ground. But since you aren't complaninig about hard starting I would guess this isn't the problem. I'm hearing Alternator. Your local autoparts store can do a load check to conferm this. Good Luck, and don't forget to vote

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: battery draining down when parked but no lights on

the central timer module is located in the back of the main central fuse box. This module contains the time contol elements for the heated rear window, interior lights and intermittent wiper operation, the module also activates a warning buzzer when the lights are left on

Posted on May 14, 2009

MNfisherman
  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: cannot connect the negative battery terminal without spark or starter turning over

You will need new igniton cylinder. Sounds like you have a short in the cylinder.

Posted on May 23, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: my tail lights and brake lights stay on even when ignition off

bad earth to lamp clusters usually when tow bar electrics fitted - or chaffed wired in lamp feed

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

  • 496 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Honda Odyssey. The passenger side

The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.

However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.

Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.

The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.

To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.

If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.

Posted on Jan 24, 2011

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