Question about 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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Can't bleed rear brakes RWAL

Rear brake line had a leak and replaced. Master cylinder ran dry when line leaked. I have no psi in the line when I try to bleed. Fluid will not enter brake line like there is some kind of restriction in the RWAL system. What am I doing wrong please help.

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 14,185 Answers

Here's a link on bleeding your brakes,you may need a scan tool to do it.

Posted on Nov 23, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

BigBlue77
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: how to bleed brakes

Sounds like the proportioning valve is stuck. You may need to break a front bleeder loose and hit the pedal the unseat the valve. Then blead the rearbrakse and then bleed the wheel where you broke the bleeder loose. That should work.

Good Luck

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale

do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: The brake line between the rear wheels is leaking

DO NOT DRIVE THIS VEHICLE!!! Make sure the line nuts are tight. If they are then the line will need to be replaced, and the brakes bled to purge the air from the brake system, which is why the brake pedal is going to the floor. I would HIGHLY reccommend you have this vehicle towed to a qualified repair shop.

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

inspectmycar
  • 233 Answers

SOURCE: how do you bleed the abs unit on a 1997 chevrolet truck

start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

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2 Answers

Replaced some brake line, rear pads and one rear wheel cylinder. Now no pressure and nothing happening when trying to bleed.


Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?

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I have a ford f150 that i have redone the brakes but all i getting is a brake pedal and then goes to floor


Bleed your brakes, starting with Right rear, left rear, right front and ending with left front. You have air in the lines or a bad master cylinder. Bleeding is the cheaper of two options.

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Brakes sink to the floor


by stating that your pedal sinks to the floor, you leave 3 options open 1.) the master cylinder seal is bypassing allowing the fluid to bleed by the proper correction is to rebuild the master cylinder.
2. One of your drum brakes has a wheel cylinder that has failed causing a noticable behind the tire leak (most common) correction is to replace all brake hardware and wheel cylinder.
3. One of the brake lines is cracked,broken, inspect for leaks and replace with new line.
4. notice on disc brakes if a brake caliper fails (part that squeezes brake pads to rotor) you will have the same symptoms of a broken wheel cylinder, this would of gradually occured feeling a heavy pedal or pulsation.

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Did the pedal go to the floor beforehand? Was the master cylinder leaking, and did you bleed it properly? If the master cylinder was not leaking, check your brake lines going to the rear wheels.

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No rear brakes, replaced rear drums and shoes. Adjusted and still no brakes?.


You either have a brake line leak, didnt properly blead the lines or the master cylinder is bad.

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Brake pedal goes too far to the floor on initial application, pumping brings the pedal up, bled several times


Sounds like an internal leak in the master cylinder, an external brake fluid leak (such as a leaking brake line), or extreme misadjustment or binding of the calipers or drums. Any could be the case, and you can eliminate the last 2 rather easily. Do you see any sign of fluid coming from any of the brake lines? If not, move to adjustments. Check the calipers for bound up caliper pins and if equiped with rear drum brakes, the adjustment and condition of the rear shoes. After that, go right for the throat and replace the master cylinder. Be sure to bench bleed it before you install it, and if you have ABS, make sure you also bleed the ABS system, OR if you can't bleed the ABS system have the new master cylinder ready to install, and remove the brake lines as quickly as possible from the old master and have a friend hold thier fingers over the ends of the lines. I do this quite a bit at my shop, and it's VERY rare that I actualy need to bleed the ABS after replacing a master cylinder if little to no air gets in the brake lines.

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As the brake pads/shoes wear. Fluid level will decrease in the master cylinder resovoir. If the master cylinder ran empty you will need to refill with appropriate brake fluid (should say DOT 3 on cap) and bleed air from the system.

Nov 13, 2009 | 2001 Ford Focus

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No fluid to rear brakes on a 1992 Lincoln Continental.  Rear brakes stopped working. Pulled rear wheels and found surface rust on disks. Raised car, spun tire and push brake pedal found no friction...


check at the proportioning valve--some have a pin that sticks out from the side, when bleeding the brakes try to push that pin back in. But first check to see why this happened--fluid leak to rear wheels, brake hoses cracked and air getting into the system??????

Jun 12, 2009 | 1992 Lincoln Continental

1 Answer

How dificult is it to replace a wheel cylinder in a 2000 Jeep.


On a scale of 1-10, its about a 3. It's a bolt out, bolt in item. Remove the brake linings, detach the brake line, using a flair nut wrench to avoid damage. (if frozen, remove line completely & replace. line can be cut above nut and 6pt socket can be used to remove it.). Unbolt cylinder and push it through the backing plate. Reverse process to install. When finished, re-fill master cyl and open bleeder screw on new cyl. push brake pedal down gently with your hand (do not use your foot or push hard...you can damage the master cyl) and keep it down while someone closes the bleeder. Open the r/r bleeder and do same thing. till no air comes out. repeat again at l/r.Close it up, re-fill master and your'e finished. (note: if master was dry before you began repair, re-fill and begin bleeding process at master before bleeding either rear cyl.While bleeding, closely monitor master level so you do not run dry)
Note: It is advised that brqake linings be replaced after any leak. If you cannot afford, wash linings and drum in strong soapy water & dry off before using. not as good as new, but better than oil soaked!

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start from the farthest, right rear, left rear, right front, then left front, take some time in bleeding your left front since it has more air induced during line replacement. good luck!

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