Question about 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup
Rear brake line had a leak and replaced. Master cylinder ran dry when line leaked. I have no psi in the line when I try to bleed. Fluid will not enter brake line like there is some kind of restriction in the RWAL system. What am I doing wrong please help.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: how to bleed brakes
Sounds like the proportioning valve is stuck. You may need to break a front bleeder loose and hit the pedal the unseat the valve. Then blead the rearbrakse and then bleed the wheel where you broke the bleeder loose. That should work.
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
DO NOT DRIVE THIS VEHICLE!!! Make sure the line nuts are tight. If they are then the line will need to be replaced, and the brakes bled to purge the air from the brake system, which is why the brake pedal is going to the floor. I would HIGHLY reccommend you have this vehicle towed to a qualified repair shop.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
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