Question about Cars & Trucks
2003 Mazda tribute v6 after changing sparkplugs and boots and fuel filter now has a miss off nd on to it. at 4000 rpm it misses severely. Any ideas?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: battery light flashes
Sounds like part of a wiring harness is shorting to ground or breaking a ground connection. Check engine to frame ground straps and engine compartment wiring. Look for loose or broken leads esp. alternator and battery wires. Perhaps the power lead to the computer is faulty causing the truck to misfire. Any engine codes?
Posted on Jun 11, 2008
Get all your tools ready and a few styrofoam cups to keep the bolts organized and labeled for re-assembly. Have a pencil and tablet handy for notes while doing the take-down. Forgive me if I can't name all the parts. I'm not a mechanic but I was able to successfully replace all six plugs. The key is to keep track of each part you pull & replace it in the reverse order. Number the cups with a marker 1,2,3,4,5.
You'll need a metric socket set,
a spark plug socket and a deep 8mm socket
A flat/slot bladed screw driver will also be handy.
A roll of tape to use as labels
In short, here are the abbreviated steps:
Disconnect the battery
Remove the engine cowling
Disconnect the throttle cable(s)
Remove the ribbed air intake hose
Disconnect the two black wire sockets on the throttle intake
Disconnect the two wire sockets at the top-left of the engine
Disconnect the three hoses in the back/center
Disconnect the solid pipe (saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold
Disconnect the instrument which is behind the solid pipe/saucer
Disconnect one hose from just in front of the master cylinder (brake fluid reservoir)
Remove four long screws at the corners of the manifold
Loosen eight screws keeping the manifold in place (these are captive)
Remove the manifold
Remove each screw holding the spark plug caps in place
Remove each of the spark plug caps
Remove and replace each of the spark plugs
Now the more descriptive version:
Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and set it off to the side. This is primarily for safety reasons.
Remove the three nuts from the cowling, pull it and set it aside with the three nuts in cup#1. You'll see the three forward spark plug caps now but WAIT until you have the back three also viewable.
Find the throttle cable(s) on the top and the throttle itself with a circular spring. Rotate it counter-clockwise to slacken the cable and disconnect it, and the secondary line/cable it is attached to. I don't know what the heck it is but it's plastic so be careful not to snap it. Remove the three screws keeping the throttle cables attached to the manifold and keep them in cup#2. There is one short gold colored screw on the left bracket and two longer silver colored screws on the right bracket. Flip the throttle cable up and to the left to get it out of the way.
Next, pull the ribbed air intake hose by loosening both the screw clamps and pop-out the sensor line on the top of the hose
Pull the larger end down and rotate it toward you to remove. Again, set it safely aside.
Since the ribbed hose is near the throttle body, go ahead and disconnect the two wire sockets from the throttle body. They'll be immediately to the left of where the ribbed intake hose attaches. These are easy to access when the intake hose is off but tricky while it's still installed.
Disconnect the two wire plug sockets (one black, one gray) at the top-left of the manifold. Once the sockets are separated, use the flat screw driver to pry/nudge the plastic retainers from the holes keeping the sockets attached to the manifold. Otherwise they'll snag when pulling the manifold.
Disconnect the three hoses on the rear-center of the manifold and label these with a piece of tape as L-C-R. One each for Left, Center, Right.
Disconnect the solid pipe (looks like a saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold by removing the two bolts keeping it's bracket in place. Keep the bolts in cup#3. The Pipe will pull slightly away from the manifold but you will NOT be able to completely pull it out. It will stay in place and you'll eventually see the total length after the manifold comes off. There is also a small gasket around the pipe; leave it in place and tape it down for safekeeping while you're working. Remove the tape when you're reassembling.
Disconnect the instrument behind the solid pipe. (Sorry, I don't know what it's called) First remove the front bracket bolt and put it in cup#4. The rear bolt is a combination set and is a little tricky. Remove the outward nut first and again use cup#4. Next use a deep metric socket to remove the remainder of the bolt and use cup#4. Basically this is a bolt with a permanent nut in the middle and uses a second nut on the end to retain two different parts. You'll see what I mean. This keeps 3 pieces in cup#4 but they all go to the same place.
Next, look to the top-right of the engine and find the master cylinder. (This is where you would add brake fluid if needed). You'll see a hose running from just in front of this area (NOT on the master cylinder itself) down to the manifold with a plastic clip on top keeping it attached. Depress the clip and disconnect the hose.
Now you're finally ready to tackle the intake manifold itself. There are 12 bolts keeping this in place (8 short captive bolts that won't come off, and 4 long bolts with small captive washers).
Look around the manifold top and locate the bolt heads. Use a socket with extension to loosen each bolt. You'll soon determine which bolts in the corner will come out. The other eight will NOT lift out and have larger washers.
Gently lift the manifold up, to the left and toward the front of the car. Make sure to check that nothing is still connected and keeping it in place. Watch the solid pipe, on the right, slide out of the manifold and be sure the gasket doesn't get lost! Carefully, place the manifold off to the side.
You should now see both the front three and the rear three spark plug caps, with six rectangular holes in the top of the engine. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING DOWN THESE HOLES!!!!! It would be a good idea to cover these up with duct tape while you're working on removing the caps, bolts and finally the spark plugs.
Unclip the ignition wires from the plug caps. Then remove the bolts retaining the caps and place these in cup#5. MAKE SURE NOT TO DROP ANY DOWN INTO THE CYLINDER HOLES.
Pull up the caps slowly with firm force. Do NOT **** them. Some may be stubborn to come off so use steadily increasing force until they pop off the spark plugs and come freely out of the recessed holes.
You'll need a very long socket extension to reach the spark plugs. Replace the plugs with the platinum tipped variety. I doubt you'll want to go through all this again soon to save $10 on parts.
That's IT! Now work backward, replacing or reconnecting parts in the reverse order as you pulled them. Cross each item off as you work backward. Remember to reconnect the battery terminal and test start the car.
Tada !!!! You've just saved yourself a costly maintenance cost and are good for another 100k miles.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
I would say to replace the sensor and see if it helps. I assume you had the truck scanned and that was the only problem. The speed sensors usually relate to the ABS and Transmission shift points.
Both Autozone and Oreillys will scan for FREE. After you replace the sensor, get a water spray bottle and go around all the seams you can find on the engine while it is running. If the RPM changes you have found the vacuum leak that is causing the miss.
There is also another test that can be done electrically. It is the cylinder balance test. This directly relates to the compression of each cylinder.
While all the Diagnostics that showed the fault are accurate, the onboard computer does not tell everything.
Usually it can miss the mechanical issues like a vacuum leak, or a bad valve in a cylinder that is firing good electrically without the whole bank running rich with the unburned fuel from that one cylinder. This is because it averages the total burn rate for each bank.
On the V8 engines there are cavities below the Airhorn for EGR flow. If your V10 is similar you may want to look under the Airhorn gasket and clean the cavities. It should only cost your time and a gasket.
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
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