Question about 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix

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Coolant going into oil/crankcase

Coolant disappears into the oil crankcase. there is trace amounts in crevasses on top of engine.

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Either you do have a cracked cylinder head or cylinder block.

Posted on Nov 22, 2013

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2006 Ford F250 Deisel 6.0 is producing excessive white smoke what may be causing issue


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Based on the smoke I would say you need to rebuild the engine.
Could be a leaking head gasket, or other problem.
The milky oil in the filler pipe means there is an excessive amount of moisture or water/coolant in the crankcase.

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This is NOT a good thing...Better check you engine oil. When engine coolant disappears without any signs of it leaking on the ground, it is usually because it is leaking into the crankcase via a blown head gasket, blown intake manifold gasket, or cracked cylinder head. If your engine oil looks milky, like a chocolate milk shake, it is time for major engine repair or replacement.

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The 2000 Ford Windstar that I have is using water. I fill it up with 2 containers of antifreeze and the next evening it needs some more added. I do not see any visible leaks in the driveway or when it is...


Engine coolant that is disappearing and leaving no visible trace is NOT a good thing. You most likely have a blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder head. (engine coolant going out the exhaust) Also check your oil to make sure the water is not getting into your crankcase. If it is, the oil will be over-full and will look like a chocolate milk-shake.

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I have a leak from the oil pan ...of my 1992 mercury topaz and im needing to know what all i will need to do to repair it


You didn't list your engine size so please pick the approriate task:

2.0L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle and support safely with jackstands.
  3. Drain the crankcase of oil.
  4. Remove the attaching bolts securing the oil pan to the engine.
  5. Clean the oil and gasket mating surface completely, and allow to dry.
To install:
  1. Apply a 1/8 in. (3.18mm) bead of silicone sealer D6AZ-19562-B or equivalent between the oil pan and engine crankcase.
  2. Install the oil pan using the attaching bolts. Torque bolt to 5-7 ft. lbs. (7-10 Nm).
  3. Lower vehicle, and fill crankcase with correct amount of engine oil.
  4. Start engine and check for leaks.

2.3L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle and support safely with jackstands.
  3. Drain the crankcase of oil, and drain the cooling system by removing the lower radiator hose.
When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze, and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
  1. Remove the roll restrictor if equipped with a manual transaxle.
  2. Disconnect the starter cable.
  3. Remove the starter from the vehicle
  4. Unfasten the bolts securing the rear oil pan to the transaxle case.
  5. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the secondary air injection tube at the check valve.
  6. Remove the heater supply tube located at the lower water pump inlet tube assembly.
  7. Loosen the bolts and remove the brackets at the block and water pump inlet tube and A/C compressor line at the pan.
  8. Using a prybar between the engine and body of car, flex engine enough the remove oil pan.
  9. Clean the oil and gasket mating surface completely, and allow to dry.
  10. Clean both mating surfaces of oil pan and cylinder block making certain all traces of RTV sealant are removed. Ensure that the block rails, front cover and rear cover retainer are also clean.
  11. Remove and clean oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly. After cleaning, install tube and screen assembly.
To install:
  1. Apply a bead of RTV E8AZ-19562-A sealer or equivalent, in the oil pan groove. Completely fill oil pan groove with sealer. Sealer bead should be 0.200 in. (5mm) wide and 0.080-0.150 in. (2.0-3.8mm) high (above oil pan surface) in all areas except the half-rounds. The half-rounds should have a bead 0.200 in. (5mm) wide and 0.150-0.200 in. (3.8-5.1mm) high, above the oil pan surface.
Applying RTV in excess of the specified amount will not improve the sealing of the oil pan, and could cause the oil pickup screen to become clogged with sealer. Use ad equate ventilation when applying sealer.
  1. Install oil pan to cylinder block within 5 minutes to prevent skinning over. RTV needs to cure completely before coming in contact with any engine oil. Ideally, about 1 hour at ambient temperature between 65-75°F (18-24°C) is recommended as a drying time.
  2. Install oil pan bolts lightly until the 2 oil pan-to-transmission bolts can be installed.
  3. Install 2 oil pan-to-transaxle bolts. Tighten to 30-39 ft. lbs. (40-54 Nm) to align oil pan with transaxle. Loosen bolts 1/2 turn.
  4. Tighten all oil pan flange bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
  5. Tighten 2 oil pan-to-transmission bolts to 30-39 ft. lbs. (40-54 Nm).
  6. Install brackets for A/C compressor line and water pump inlet tube.
  7. If equipped with a manual transaxle, fasten the air injection tube.
  8. Install the starter and cable.
  9. Lower vehicle.
  10. Install engine oil and coolant.
  11. Connect the negative battery cable.
  12. Start engine and check for coolant and oil leaks.

Oct 12, 2009 | 1992 Mercury Topaz

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98 saturn SL2, P0172 and misfire dtc's, jerks when accelerating after warmed up. Coolant looked a little frothy but doesn't seem to need coolant added(not consuming coolant)Oil looks good. Problem started...


Possible blown head gasket. Big problem . Have that checked immediately by a engine coolant pressure leak-down test. You can lose your engine and pronto! Small amount of coolant possible passing into crankcase or/and the cylinders.

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Radiator coolant loss due to evaporation


I had a problem like that in an old Mercury Sable I owned. I had to periodically add a bit of coolant because it was disappearing and not dripping anywhere. I found out what was causing the problem on a cold winter day, a short (6") hose going from the water pump to the engine burst. Don't wait until a hose bursts.

Likely the coolant is going one of a few places. It's escaping from a pinhole in a hose somewhere, going into the engine's cylinders (blown/leaking head gasket), going into the crankcase and mixing with the oil, etc. Probably the best way to start diagnosis is to add special dye to the cooling system and use a black light to see if there's an external leak in the system. If not you can pull the spark plugs and check them to see if coolant is going into the cylinders (coolant does a good job of cleaning carbon off the inside of the combustion chamber). Well that should be good for starters. Good luck!

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