Question about 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

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Install manual locking hubs assembly

Going from auto locking hubs to manual locking hubs what parts do I need to remove.

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  • Master
  • 1,511 Answers

Cut off bolts with a bolt cutter

Posted on May 09, 2014

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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tripletauto
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SOURCE: ford auto locking hubs

you can convert auto to manual hubs warn hubs or milemarker makes good hubs. As far as lift a suspension lift is better. This really depends on what you want to do with truck. I had a 97 f250 diesel 4x4 and put front leving springs on it and new poly spring bushings and was able to clear 35" tires on factory wheels. The best exhaust upgrade is going to be a new down pipe from turbo to exhaust as far as straight pipe or muffler it depends on personal preference

Posted on Oct 17, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: manual hub removal/installation

You need a special Socket, it has 4 studs on it. you can get them at any parts store.

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

AutoDoc
  • 169 Answers

SOURCE: '02 Front Hub assembly

You will need a hub puller. Ford # D93P-1175-B. The flate rate is for one hour.

Posted on Aug 25, 2008

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: superwinch locking hubs

i would think so other wise you will have a large vacume leak and truck will run bad too.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

sscullys
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: auto locking hub sucks is there a aftermarket

Unlike the 97-03 MY F-150s, the 04-08 MY use vacuum to hold the IWE ( Integrated Wheel End ) out, and once vacuum is removed the IWE spring engages the gears to lock the wheels to the front axle.

I have not seen a replacement front axle with manual hubs yet, checking Warn's site. Maybe check with Warn, but from the application list, 1996 was the last F-150 hub conversion kit they make. SuperDuty is 04, but that is an option from Ford up until 04.

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

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I've changed rotors before but never on a 4 wheel drive. Could you tell me how to on a 1989 ford ranger?


Brake Rotor (Disc) - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts.
  2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support on jackstands.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire.
  4. Remove the brake caliper assembly as described earlier in this section, but do not disconnect the brake hose.
  5. Suspend the caliper assembly by a piece of wire. Do not allow it to hang by the brake hose.
  6. Follow the procedure given under wheel bearing removal in Suspension and Steering for models with manual and automatic locking hubs (lines down).
New rotor assemblies come protected with an anti-rust coating which should be removed with denatured alcohol or degreaser. New hubs must be packed with EP wheel bearing grease.
  1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.


Front Wheel Bearings - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figure 1 )


zjlimited_533.gif

Fig. 1: Inspect the bearings for abnormal wear and/or damage



With Manual Locking Hubs
(see Figures 2 through 17)

  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the retainer washers from the lug nut studs and remove the manual locking hub assembly from the spindle.
  4. Remove the snapring and spacer from the end of the spindle shaft.
  5. Remove the outer wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
  6. Remove the locknut washer from the spindle.
  7. Remove the inner wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
  8. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Remove the hub and rotor from the spindle.
  9. Using seal removal tool 1175-AC or equivalent remove and discard the grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
  10. Clean the inner and outer bearing assemblies in solvent. Inspect the bearings and the cones for wear and damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
  11. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C and tool T77F-1102-A or equivalent.
  12. Wipe the old grease from the spindle. Check the spindle for excessive wear or damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
zjlimited_534.gif

Fig. 2: Before beginning the wheel bearing removal, and after the outer hub is removed, wipe off any excess grease

zjlimited_535.gif

Fig. 3: After the grease is wiped off, remove the axle shaft snapring ...

zjlimited_536.gif

Fig. 4: ... then pull the splined spacer from the axle shaft end

zjlimited_537.gif

Fig. 5: Use a 4 pronged socket to loosen the outer wheel bearing locknut ...

zjlimited_538.gif

Fig. 6: ... then remove the outer locknut

zjlimited_539.gif

Fig. 7: Remove the lockwasher from behind the outer locknut ...

zjlimited_540.gif

Fig. 8: ... then loosen and remove the inner locknut-note the lockwasher engagement pin (arrow)

zjlimited_541.gif

Fig. 9: While pushing inwards on the rotor/hub assembly, remove the outer wheel bearing ...

zjlimited_542.gif

Fig. 10: ... then pull the rotor/hub assembly from the spindle, taking care not to scratch the bearing cups in the hub

zjlimited_543.gif

Fig. 11: Pry out the grease seal on the back of the rotor/hub assembly ...

zjlimited_544.gif

Fig. 12: ... then remove the inner wheel bearing. Thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts for wear or damage





continue...

Jul 29, 2011 | 1989 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Need exploded view of 1995 dodge 2500 left front u-joint removal process. How does main bearing race come off?


FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

  3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
  4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

  5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
  6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
  7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
  8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
  9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
  10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
  11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
  12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
  13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
  14. Assemble the hub parts.
  15. Install the caliper.
  16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

  3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
  4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

  5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
  6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
  7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
  8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
  9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
  10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
  11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
  12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
  14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
  15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

  16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
  17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
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Nov 05, 2010 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

1 Answer

How do you tear down front hub on 4 wleel drive truck?


FRONT DRIVE AXLE Manual Locking Hubs DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY Fig. 1: Three screws retain the cap to the hub body 91197g48.gif
Fig. 2: Remove the lockring seated in the groove of the brake rotor assembly 91197g49.gif
Fig. 3: Remove the hub body assembly from the brake rotor assembly 91197g50.gif
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the three screws retaining the cap and remove the cap from the hub.
  4. Remove the lockring seated in the groove of the brake rotor assembly.
  5. Remove the hub body assembly from the brake rotor assembly. To install:
  6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.
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Oct 12, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

How do you remove the Hub and Rotor on a 97' F250 with Auto 4 wheel drive? I can not get the rotor to come off. I know that the hub must come with it. However, I am not sure what I have not removed in...


Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive 1997 F-250/350/Super Duty Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000 Locking Hubs, Manual

e9801b.gif


Item Part Number Description 1 3A329 Halfshaft 2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (Axle) 3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal 4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle 5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 6 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal 7 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 8 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor 9 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 10 - Pin (Part of 1195) 11 1195 Inner Lock Nut 12 1198 Lockwasher 13 1197 Outer Lock Nut 14 - Steel Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 15 - Plastic Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 16 - Splined Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 17 3B457 Snap Ring 18 1K105 Hub Body 19 - Lock Ring (Part of 1K106) 20 1K104 Cap 21 1K104 Capscrew A - While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). B - Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 Lb-In) Removal
  1. Separate cap assembly from hub body by removing the three Torx® head capscrews.


    de0460a.gif



    de0285a.gif

  1. Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).


    f4658c.gif

  1. Remove the hub body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor. If the body is difficult to remove, install two capscrews and pull the body assembly out of the front disc brake hub and rotor.


    f4659d.gif

Installation
  1. NOTE: Do not pack the hublock body assembly or cap with grease. Excessive grease can cause excessive dialing effort and hub failure.

    Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
  1. Tighten three Torx® head capscrews to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).

Oct 04, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

How to change fornt drivers wheel bearing on grand vitara 2002 model 2.0 ltr 5 door and where can i get a repair manual for this model


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Front wheel
    • Brake caliper and rotor
    • Locking hub or hub drive flange, if equipped
    • Hub grease cap, if equipped
    • Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
    • Wheel bearing lockwasher
    • Wheel bearing locknut and inner washer
    • Wheel hub and bearing assembly
    • Wheel hub oil seal
    • Wheel bearing oil seal
    • Snapring
  3. Press the wheel bearing and race out of the hub. To install:
  4. Press the wheel bearing and race into the hub so that the race is fully seated in the hub bore.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Snapring
    • Wheel bearing oil seal
    • Wheel hub oil seal
    • Wheel hub and bearing assembly
    • Wheel bearing locknut and inner washer. Tighten the nut to 157 ft. lbs. (216 Nm).
    • Wheel bearing lockwasher. Tighten the retaining screws to 13 inch lbs. (1.5 Nm).
    • Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
    • Hub grease cap, if equipped
    • Locking hub or hub drive flange, if equipped
    • Brake caliper and rotor
    • Front wheel
prev.gif next.gif --- Go to your local auto parts store or library to get a copy of the repair manual for this model.

Aug 26, 2010 | 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara

2 Answers

Hi,I am a Diesal mec.for Peterbilt in Utah,I have 1998 dodge ram 1500 I found that I have the right front axle u-joint going bad I have the parts.I have heard some bad things of how hard it is to get the...


FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

  3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
  4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

  5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
  6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
  7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
  8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
  9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
  10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
  11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
  12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
  13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50–80 ft. lbs. (68–108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
  14. Assemble the hub parts.
  15. Install the caliper.
  16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

  3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
  4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

  5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
  6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
  7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
  8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
  9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
  10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
  11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
  12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
  14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
  15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

  16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
  17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
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Aug 18, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

1 Answer

I cannot get the fron axle to lock in on my 89 chevy 4x4 350 engine. i have replaced the actuator and still noting. i do get all the indicator lights on but still only the back tire spins. i bought this...


Automatic Locking Hubs REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The following procedure covers removal & installation only, for the hub assembly. The hub should be disassembled ONLY if overhaul is necessary. In that event, an overhaul kit will be required. Follow the instructions in the overhaul kit to rebuild the hub.
  1. Remove the capscrews and washer from the hub cap. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the automatic locking hubs 84907274.gif

  2. Remove the hub cap and spring.
  3. Remove the bearing race, bearing and retainer.
  4. Remove the keeper from the outer clutch housing.
  5. Remove the large snapring to release the locking unit. The snapring is removed by squeezing the ears of the snapring with needle-nose pliers.
  6. Remove the locking unit from the hub. You can make this job easier by threading 2 hub cap screws into the outer clutch housing and hold these to pull out the unit. To install:
  7. Wipe clean all parts and check for wear or damage.
  8. Coat all parts with the same wheel bearing grease you've used on the bearings.
  9. Position the locking unit in the hub and install the large snapring. Pull outward on the unit to make sure the snapring is fully seated in its groove.
  10. Install the keepers.
  11. Install the bearing retainer, bearing and race. Make sure that the bearing is fully pack with grease.
  12. Coat the hub cap O-ring with wheel bearing grease and install the hub cap.
  13. Install the capscrews and washers. Tighten the screws to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Manual Locking Hubs The engagement and disengagement of the hubs is a manual operation which must be performed at each hub assembly. The hubs should be placed FULLY in either Lock or Free position or damage will result. WARNING
Do not place the transfer case in either 4-wheel mode unless the hubs are in the Lock position! Locking hubs should be run in the Lock position periodically for a few miles to assure proper differential lubrication. prev.gif next.gif

Aug 05, 2010 | Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Rear wheel bearing replacement


Often the front wheel hub bearing assembly for driven and nondriven wheels is actually two tapered bearings facing each other.
f40-20.gif Exploded view of a typical front wheel bearing assembly for a FWD vehicle. Courtesy of DaimlerChrysler Corporation Each of the bearings rides in its own race. Some front wheel bearings are sealed units and are lubricated for life. They are replaced and serviced as an assembly. Others are serviceable and require periodic lubrication and adjustment.
Except when making slight adjustments to the bearings, the bearing assembly must be removed for all service work.
  • This is done with the vehicle on lifts and the wheel assembly removed.
  • In the center of the hub there is a dust (grease) cap.
  • Using slip-joint pliers or a special dust cap removal tool, wiggle the cap out of its recess in the hub.
f40-21.jpg A special tool for removing a dust cap. If one is not available use slip-joint pliers.
  • Now remove the cotter pin and nut lock from the end of the spindle.
  • Loosen the spindle nut while supporting the brake assembly and hub.
  • On many vehicles you will need to remove the brake caliper to remove the brake disc and hub.
  • Once the hub is free to come off the spindle, remove the spindle nut and the washer behind the nut.
  • Move the hub slightly forward, then push it back. This should free the outer bearing so you can remove it.
  • Now remove the hub assembly. A grease seal located on the back of the hub normally keeps the inner bearing from falling out when the hub is removed.
  • To remove the bearing assembly, the grease must be removed first. In most cases, all you need to do to remove the seal is pry and pop it out of the hub.
  • The inner bearing should then fall out.
  • Keep the outer bearing and inner bearing separated if you plan on reusing them.
  • Wipe the bearings and races or use brake parts cleaner to clean them.
  • While doing this, pay close attention to the condition and movement of the bearings. The bearings need to rotate smoothly.
  • Also visually inspect the bearings and races after they have been cleaned. any noticeable damage means they should be replaced.
  • Also inspect the spindle. If it is damaged or excessively worn, the steering knuckle assembly should be replaced.
  • Whenever a bearing is replaced, its race must also be replaced.
  • Races are pressed in and out of the hub. Typically the old race can be driven out with a large drift and a hammer. Once the race has been removed, wipe all grease from the inside of the hub.
  • The new race should be installed with the proper driver.
  • During assembly, the bearings and hub assembly must be thoroughly and carefully lubricated.
  • Care must be taken not to get grease on the brake disc or on any part that will directly contact the disc.
  • Always use the recommended grease on this assembly. The grease must be able to withstand much heat and friction. If the wrong grease is used, it may not offer the correct protection or it may liquefy from the heat and leak out of the seals.
  • The bearings should be packed with grease. It is important that the grease is forced into and around all of the rollers in the bearing. Merely coating the outside of the bearing with grease will not do the job.
  • A bearing packer does the best job at packing in the grease. If one is not available, force grease into the bearing with your hand. Install the greased inner bearing into the hub.
  • Install a new grease seal into the hub.
  • To avoid damaging the seal, use the correct size driver to press the seal into the hub.
  • Lubricate the spindle, then slip the hub over the spindle. Install the outer bearing, washer, and lock nut.
  • The lock nut should be adjusted to the exact specifications given in the service manual.
  • Often it is tightened until the hub cannot rotate, then it is loosened about one-half turn before it is set to the specified freeplay. The initial tightening seats the bearings into their races.
  • Once the lock nut is tightened, install the nut lock and use a new cotter pin to retain the lock.
  • The adjustment of the bearings can be checked with a dial indicator.
f40-22.gif Wheel bearing adjustments can be checked with a dial indicator. Reprinted with permission.
  • Mount the base of the indicator as close as possible to the center of the hub.
  • Locate the tip of the indicator's plunger on the tip of the spindle.
  • Set the indicator to zero.
  • Firmly grasp the brake disc and move it in and out.
  • The total movement shown on the indicator is the amount of freeplay at the bearing.
  • Compare your reading to the specifications and make adjustments as necessary.
WARNING Throughout this entire process, your hands will have grease on them. Be very careful not to touch the brake assembly with your greasy hands. Clean them before handling the brake parts or use a clean rag to hold the brake assembly.
  • The front bearing arrangement often found on FWD and 4WD vehicles is often nonserviceable.
  • These bearings are pressed in and out of the hub to be replaced. To do this, the axle or half shaft is removed, as is the steering knuckle and hub assembly.
  • The bearings may be sealed and require no additional lubrication or they may need to be packed with grease when they are reassembled. In most cases, the bearings are not adjusted.
  • A heavily torqued axle nut is used to hold the assembly in place on the axle.
  • This nut is typically replaced after it has been removed and is staked in place after it is tightened.

Nov 12, 2009 | 2003 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Front brake rotor on 1992 Ford Ranger 4wd with auto lock in


With Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
  2. Remove the wheel lugnuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the retainer washers from the lugnut studs. Remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
  4. Remove the snap ring from the end of the spindle shaft.
  5. Remove the axle shaft spacer
  6. Being careful not to damage the plastic moving cam or thrust spacers, pull cam assembly off the wheel bearing adjusting nut and remove the two plastic thrust spacers from the adjusting nut. CAUTION: Do not pry on the plastic cam or thrust spacers during removal. Prying may damage the cam or spacers.
  7. Using a magnet, remove the locking key. NOTE: If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key, before the key can be removed. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the spindle threads, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
  8. Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the spindle using a 2-3/8 inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B or equivalent.
  9. While rotating the hub and rotor assembly, tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 47 Nm (35 ft lb) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor and back off the nut one-quarter turn (90 degrees).
  10. Retighten the adjusting nut to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb) using a torque wrench.
  11. Align the closest lug in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of the spindle keyway slot. Advance the nut to the next lug if required. Install the separate locking key in the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut. WARNING: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the spindle nut adjustment lug with the center of the spindle keyway slot to prevent damage to the separate locking key. The wheel and tire assembly may come off while the vehicle is in motion if the key is damaged.
  12. Install the two thrust spacers and push or press the cam assembly onto the locknut by lining up the key in the fixed cam with the spindle keyway. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the fixed cam key with the spindle keyway to prevent damage to the fixed cam.
  13. Install the axle shaft spacer.
  14. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle shaft.
  15. Install the automatic locking hub assembly over the spindle by lining up the three hub assembly legs with three pockets in cam assembly. Install the retainer washers.
  16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lugnuts to 135 Nm (100 ft lb).
  17. Make sure the final end play of the wheel on the spindle is 0.00-0.08 mm (0.000-0.003 inch). the maximum torque to rotate the hub is 2.8 Nm (25 in lb).

Jul 27, 2009 | 1992 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

HUB ASSEMBLY


these links are to remove but assembly is reversed
Here is a writeup on removing 5-bolt auto hubs

http://danielphotography.us/bronco/manualhubs/

Here is a writeup on removing 3-bolt auto hubs

http://www.superford.org/vehicles/re...d=3749&s=14884

Here is a writeup on removing manual hubs

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5450

Mar 24, 2009 | 1995 Ford Bronco

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