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sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
You have a vacuum leak.Defrost is the default postion(no vacuum).
See if you can locate the small black vacuum line that goes inside the vehicle on the passenger side near the heater core. The trace it back,should see it going to a canister then to the intake manifold.Make sure it is not disconnected or broken somewhere.
sounds like heater control valve situated under scullle panel common fault on ka set heater fan switch half way between hot and cold with heater blowing then touch valve if pulsing or clicking noise it is faulty if doesnt solve problem faulty switch
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Check to make sure the motors are moving hot to cold. The blinking control panel means it has self diag mode. Google how to get the heater control panel to go into self diag mode and when you get codes goggle them too . Prob bad control panel switch or unit
the system uses vacuum to operate the mode doors. the temp door is voltage to move between hot and cold 0 volts to 12volts if control is sending right voltage temp door motor is bad the dash must come out to replace
you have to get a new control panel which cost usually around 800 dollars. Mine is the same way but i haven't got it fixed i just took out the glove box and kept the switch to tell the motor to make it hot or cold air and put a screw in it and have it held on hot for the winter then ill taker it out in the summer and have it blow cold air
sounds like your blend door motor has gone bad. this motor controls the blend door in the heater box that allows eather cold or hot air to flow or a mixture of both. replacing this motor is a big job cause the dash must be moved out to get to the motor.
on the evap box there is a control mtr that switches the hot cold door. these mtrs are prone to failure. the other problem that i have seen is that the door breakes in side the evap box and that means removing the box to replace the door . if i remeber correctly you may have to slide the dash back to gain assces to the control mtr to test it good luck