Question about 1995 Mazda MX-6

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1995 mazda mx6 that will start but dies immediately

The heads on the car were replaced and after putting the car back together, the car would crank but would not stay running. The distributor, crank sensor, timing belt have been replaced. It looks as if there is gas getting to the injectors but the car will not stay running. What would cause the car not to run?

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I had that problem with my car but i had a key with a chip in it and one with no chip. i kept using the one with no chip and my car was dieing. as soon as i used the one with a chip in it my car started right up and stayed running.

Posted on Nov 22, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

stormbrewin
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SOURCE: 1996 mazda mx6 ls cranks but won't start

you may need to run a wire from a keyed ignition source that has power while cranking and running to the fuel pump relay and bypass the pcm to test wether it will run, if it runs put a more permanent wire in place.Not too sure what tests youve done but it seems that fuel is what your focusing on so a quick test is too spray engine start up the intake tube to see if the engine trys to run if it does it eliminates a lot of other potential reasons for a no start condition.Also try squeezing the fuel return line to see if the added pressure will try to make engine run.Could be time to replace fuel pump etc anyway let me know how it goes good luck with it

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

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SOURCE: 1996 mazda mx3 precidia, extremely hard to start

Before you spend the time and money,get the auto choke checked.It may make the car hard to start.Basics 1st.Hope this helps

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: 93 mazda mx6 wont run. will start but runs very

If yours is the v6 2.5 the tps is adjustable and you can turn it up and down. On my mazda it acted like it was in the fuel system and i ended up replacing the distributor.

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

consaka
  • 661 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Mazda Protege 5 knocking engine

Uhh there are no rods in the head. That dealer has a loose rod in his head maybe.
The crank, rods and pistons are all in the bottom end of the engine.
What it likely is is either a broken piston skirt or a spun rod bearing.
Spun crank bearings are rare and sound deep.
A spun rod bearing can be fairly quiet on idle depending how bad it is worn out, but it will be really loud on acceleration. Piston slap from a broken skirt can be pretty loud too but it mostly sounds like diesel rattle only a bit less. Some have described it as a loud pinging sound like detonation.
Drain the oil and check for metal debri. If you can tilt the vehicle a bit for the oil to drain more towards the drain hole that could help. Then look for metal pieces and judge their size. There should be NO glitter whatsoever in engine oil, or any kind of debri. Now a rear end or transmission is different. Those always have a little metalic sheen to them.
Best of luck.

Posted on Apr 01, 2010

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: proper wiring from spark plugs to distributor cap

Here are the firing order diagrams for that vehicle.

2.0 liter

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2.5 liter

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Posted on Aug 20, 2010

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