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I got a 1994 mercury villager with a 6 cylinder my intake side cam shaft broke off and I wanna know if I has to removed valve to be able to removed the cam shaft

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 22,095 Answers

Take the cylinder head off first ,why did camshaft break in the first place ,i suspect the cam belt has stripped teeth and valve s have hit the piston causing the camshaft to break .

Posted on Nov 22, 2013

  • Eduardo Delgado
    Eduardo Delgado Nov 22, 2013

    yes the belt broke off and I got a head fron the pick up part that I wanna use the cam only to replace the broken one but my question is do I has to pull the valves to replaced tge broken cam?

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Nov 23, 2013

    No it should just come off the valve caps are undone ,never worked on one of these cars although i have seen one in the scrapyard with a full frontal impact ,The only cams i have ever pulled are on older vehicles with pushrods and rocker shafts like your older 4.0 lt cherooke jeeps with a engine that was designed prewar II .Well anyway boss best of british with your endevours as iam off soon to go for my morning coffee and chat the barmaid up ,.well here in spain they say the older you get the worse you get ,not sure how this works in meaning but ??

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

shaggyrat
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SOURCE: Rear seat removal 2000 merc Villager

fold top seat down first
then there is seat clip push seat forward with upward motion
this releases back floor clamps once released pull seat back this releases the front clamps then pull seat out of back door

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Mercury Villager headlight assembly diagaram for removal

This is easy. Lift the lid open. Look at the back of the sealed beam and you will see a clip and an o ring. Pull the clip up and pull wires back toward the driver's seat. Unscrew the o ring and firmly pull the bulb out toward the driver again. Note the 3 tabs on the bulb seat and realign the new bulb with those tab ( 2 bottom, 1 top). Replace with #9007 bulbs..do them both.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

carlsbiz
  • 1124 Answers

SOURCE: REMOVING STARTER ON 1994 TOYOTA CAMRY LE

The starter is found under front end.. Near where the moter meets the trani - you will see the flywheel (a big round gear) the starter connects to the flywheel to turn the motor..

Disconnect the battery..
Disconnect wires from starter..
Should be 2 bolts that hold the starter in - remove them..

The starter goes in only one way so you cant mess it up..

Rate well ;o)

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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1 Answer

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1 and 4, 3 and 2 are companion piston, you could do the same with 6 or 8 cylinders, you must know firing order

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Broken cam shaft


I think the first thing is to find out what else went wrong. It is only the valves that could have been affected depending on where the shaft broke. $1500 seems to be on the high side.

I would ask the dealer to remove the cylinder head then I would take it for reconditioning myself (service. replace valves and cams) and give it back to the dealer for fitting.

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How to replace a broken timing belt


Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.

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1 Answer

I need firing order of piston on a 3.0 in a 1993 mercury villager


For the 1993 Mercury Villager 3.0L V6:

Firing Order:
1-2-3-4-5-6

Cylinders:
......(back)......
|...1....3....5...|
.......................
|...2....4....6...|
......(front)

Distributor:
..(back)
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3........1
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Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

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1 Answer

Timing belt broke, need to know how to line up belt on gears on a 2000 mercury villager 3.3 v-6?


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2 Answers

I need firing order for mercury villager 1994


it's 1-2-3-4-5-6.

#1 is on the passenger side rear and #3 & #5 are also on the back.

#2 is in front on passenger side. #4 & #6 are across the front.

go here for expert villager help.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Jan 05, 2010 | 1994 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

Timing Belt


I have used the Haynes Repair Manual for the Mercury Villager to change the timing belt on my 1993 Villager, twice. I just finished last night with the latest change. I found the Haynes manual to be very useful. This is just an overview:
1. Jack up the the van and support it on jack stands. Remove the front passenger side wheel and 2 plastic splash sheilds.
2. Remove the two radiator hoses on the passenger side of the engine.
3. Remove the pulley from the water pump (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove the tensioner pulley, including the bracket, for the A/C compressor. (3x 12 mm bolts)
This one can be difficult because it requires a torx head to loosen the pulley and it's a very tight fit to get a torx in there. I ended up taking the torx head out of the socket then turning it with a 10mm wrench.
5. Remove all 3 drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley. (1-1/16" bolt) You will need a good strap wrench to keep the pulley from turning or an impact to remove this bolt. You may be able to remove the pulley just by bumping it with a mallet, but you may need a gear puller.
7. Remove the timing belt cover, it has an upper and lower half and is held in place by several 8mm screws.
8. You will find that the timing belt pulleys on the both cam shafts and the crank shaft have a white paint mark on one tooth. Make sure the marks on the two cam shaft pulleys are in line with a "bump" mark on the back plate of the belt cover. The bump mark for the front cam is located at about the 2 o'clock position and the one for the rear cam is at about the 10 o'clock position. You will need a mirror and flashlight to see this one.
The crankshaft pulley mark lines up with a notch in the oil pan (I think it's the oil pan where the notch is, but you will see it at near the 6 o'clock postion.
9. My new timing belt was a DAYCO and it came with a good instruction sheet. The new belt has an arrow that should point AWAY from the engine. There are also 3 lines on the new belt that will line up with the lines on the timing belt pulleys.
10. The belt tension should be adjusted so that you get about 0.5" - 0.6" of deflection at the center between the two cam shafts.
Note: I recommend replacing both the tensioning pulley and water pump while you are in there.
A water pump is about $32 and the tensioning pulley is about $35 but it's money well spent.
I did NOT replace the tensioner pulley the last time I changed the timing belt, and that is what failed this time. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had replaced the pulley the first time.

Hope this helps. I'd still buy the HAYNES manual.

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1 Answer

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v-6

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