Question about 2006 Kia Sorento
Seems to originate from the rear, but the vibration\bouncing transfers thru the vehicle so quickly and dissipates at such a low speed its hard to tell. it feels like something is sticking, not allowing one or both rear wheels to roll freely. like I'm dragging the rear end. but still only under forward acceleration between 10 and 15 mph. if I hold the brakes to maintain the appropriate speed for longer the symptoms become more violent but still between the same speeds. please help, only car, family of 4,
Bent rim or hub can cause this. rotate tire to confirm rim are ok and check run out on hub to confirm the hub are ok.
Posted on Nov 22, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi check all your brake linnings for contamination especially brake fluid on the linnings if this is ok you have a build up of pressure if its possible for you drive till the brakes start to lock up get out go to each wheel see if any of them is getting hot if so the problem is on that wheel jack it up to see if the wheel is locking if its red hot it will be sticking then try the rest of the wheels one at a time jack them up see if its one wheel or all if its one wheel release the bleed nut on that wheel see if it releases if it does it must be fitted with a pressure regulator to that wheel replace it . now if its all wheels its more likely to be the brake master cylinder or if fitted pressure regulator that supplies all the wheels a long shot i cannot see but better to mention it the brake pedal is not sticking and holding down yates210456
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
this is not a comen prolbem.has the dealer check the you exhast conver? it could be your ECM computer.some times.witch tell your motor what to do .i would get rid of it.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
SOURCE: front end shaking
I had the same problem on a 2003 Kia Sedona where the front end would vibrate excessively while accerating at freeway speeds. Over time it got worse and was noticable at lower and lower speeds and while just maintaining speed, but went away when I took my foot off the gas.
It turned out to be the inner CV joint on the passenger side. You can check for this by grabbing the inner and outer half axels with large vice grips or slip-joint pilers and turning them in opposite directions while listening for crunching or "loose parts" noises.
The CV is sold with the axle so I just bought the outer half axle for $80 (which has the inner and outer CV joints attached) and replaced it. If you do it yourself, make sure you have a ball spline fork, a hub puller tool, and a big torque wrench for putting the bearing assembly back on. You can rent these at AutoZone.
The bad CV joint also caused the bearing to go bad. It had burn marks and made a grinding noise while turning. It was very hard to get out, so I had to take the assembly to a machine shop to have it taken out and the new one put in. $35 for bearing and $30 for machine shop work.
After repair, I took an 800 mile road trip that weekend with no problems other than barely noticable vibration from the driver side at 70+ mph. I figure vibration was so bad pre-repair that it messed up something on the other side as well, so I'll check out the driver side bearing and CV when I get a chance.
Posted on May 05, 2009
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