this is covered in the FSM. 95 accord.
did you google this?
are you sure its only the crank seal,????
gravity lies. as does windage effects.
is this an A/T or M/T car, the latter makes the bolt come off easy
(5th gear + brakes) the slush pump tranny NOT.
so if you read the FSM it states." it shows photo of tire off and pulley bolt view and how the body ends just above that bolt, (see it?)
For some engines, a special pulley holder tool is available to secure the pulley while removing and installing the bolt (refer to the illustration)."
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the accessory drive belts.
- If necessary, secure the crankshaft with a flywheel holding tool.
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. This bolt can be difficult to remove. Spray the bolt with penetrating oil and allow it to soak overnight.
Book forgets to see CCW direction on bolt (RHT)
the bolt will take about 200fl/lbs of reverse torque to get off.
5 Carefully remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Do not pry it off.
Remove the key from the crankshaft sprocket. Be sure not to lose it.
7 -If necessary, remove the tool holding the crankshaft.
remove seal with seal puller or screw trick ,etc.
do not damage the seal base collar of the housing. DO NOT.
is this your first engine seal work>?
or done many , just need help with one honda.?
if doing all work on a honda, did you ever consider a real FSM?
why not get one, and read it, and all the steps and warnings.
if you work engines, you know as you go , you see
Omg, it not the crank it the cam leaking, or just a bad valve cover.
fate happens, distributor seal leak too.
with all FWD, doing a crank seal can be easy or hard.
no access panels in finder
or on some cars, 7ton pressed on pulley, (Dodge neons/ yuk)
1994-95 Accord and Prelude-181 ft. lbs
. (245 Nm)
if the 90,000 mile timing belt is ignored, you will bend the head valves over, or worse... so...... all this , is a consideration.