Question about Cars & Trucks
Do I need a scanner or does the check engine light blink the code?
You would need a OBDII scanner. Autozone and Advanced Auto can pull the code(s) for you for free.
Posted on Nov 22, 2013
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Funny you should mention that, I’ve been working on the same problem with my 04 Aerio for 2 days. If you've checked the bulb and that didn’t fix it then it's probably 1 of the 5 little resistors on the circuit board. They’re really small and aren’t soldered very well. Pull the clock and pop the white ABS cover off the back, once you remove the clock from the dash you won’t even need any tools to pop the rear cover. Now plug the clock back in (make sure you get the plug back in the right way or you’ll short everything out) then turn your key on and GENTLY push on each resistor with your finger while watching to see if the light flashes on. If it does then that’s the resistor with the bad connection. I say GENTLY because I wasn’t and the lose resistor popped off on mine and no matter how many times I try soldering it back on I cant get a good enough connection to make the light work.
If you do find the lose resister, use a small tipped medium heat soldering iron and fine electrical solder to carefully solder the ends of the resistor with a little solder as possible. What ever you do don’t knock the little thing off or you probably never find it again, and you probably never get it to make a connection again. I’d start with resistor 430, it’s the nearest of the 2 on the side of the plug-in pins on the circuit board. Hope you have better luck then I did…..
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
PO108 (map circuit high input) MAP is manifold absolute pressure... a sensor normally mounted on the intake. your code is suggesting a problem with this sensor, or its circuitry.
Posted on May 11, 2009
I have a 1.6L Liasna/Aerio. 2002.130,000km.
Recently it had a problem, a problem that I seem to see on other websites.
The vehicle was cruising on the highway and suddenly jerked, surged, and cut out. Another case was when it was stopped at the lights and the RPM faded to a cut. Accelerator application would not keep the rpm up.
The common factor in all four cases was that it was a very hot day. Temp was 32-35 degrees C, (around 95 degree F).
I let the vehicle cool down and then got a restart and limped home. Sometimes had a repeat enroute. A dangerous exercise, having the engine cut on a busy highway!
The vehicle then started and ran on cooler days without a murmer.
The local Suzuki shop had a look at it but nothing showed up on the inbuilt computer!
After a fourth incident I took it back to the Suzi shop and this time the service rep said that they had had a few other Liana's come in with the same problem. These vehicles were with the later larger engine, the 1.8L M18A.
The problem it would appear was the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR. A bit of solid state kit it costs about A$100 and is located near the alternator. After replacement I have had no problems but I need to do some driving in hot weather to really find out.
In the trouble shooting game you sometimes need to work on the process of elimination so I also had the air filter replaced as well as the Air Inlet Temp. probe (IAT). (Both inexpensive).
From reading up on Suzuki Liana/Aerio (US) problems I can see more than a few which I can put down to a problem with the CAS.
Some vehicles seem to have a problem in that they will turn over but not start. Again most likely a CAS problem. It would seem to me that if there is one consistant problems with Lianas/Aerios then it is a faulty CAS.
The CAS replaces the older distributor. A gear wheel in the engines turns next to the CAS and that in turn passes a signal to the vehicles computer to fire the spark plugs. The CAS may be a solid state bit of kit but can still fail.
Radiators. The Liana has two radiators, each with their own electric cooling fan. The left unit is for the engine block cooling fluid. The right unit is for the air con unit and for external cooling of the engine block and accessories mounted behind the engine. Both radiators have heat sensors. The left has a temp probe that when high turns on the elec cooling fan. The right cooling fan will come on when the air con unit is turned on or when the engine block gets hot. Be advised that the Liana/Aerio runs cooler than a lot of other vehicles so, even on a hot day, the fans may not come on when you expect them to. The CAS unit is located in a hot part of the engine so when the outside air temp rises, such as on a hot day, the temp of the engine block and the oil inside it as well as the air around the CAS probe rises and that is when the unit fails.
Perhaps I if I were to design or modify the Liama (a great little vehicle) I would direct a bit more cooling air around the CAS.
The CAS is a part of modern cars and I note that the CAS in other cars also fail so it is not a Liana/Aerio only problem. Given time and experience car designers will rid us of this over-temp CAS failure problem with better design.
Comment; If you are having a problem such as described then get the CAS replaced. It may be the item that the mechanics overlook in their trouble shooting but is the key to your problem.
Enjoy driving your Liana/Aerio! I do!
Posted on Jan 09, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 08, 2014 | 2004 Suzuki Aerio
Nov 29, 2013 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio
Apr 10, 2013 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio
Nov 30, 2012 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio
Sep 18, 2011 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio
Aug 21, 2011 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio
Mar 29, 2011 | 2005 Suzuki Aerio
Jan 09, 2011 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio
Dec 19, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio
Jul 02, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki Aerio
64 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: