Question about Cars & Trucks
I have good airflow through all air vents whatever in auto mode or selecting manually but when I use the "Prog" key the heating elements for windscreen and rear window do work , I can hear the fan pushing air but the demister air flow does not come out at the base of the windscreen. There is no book symbol on the hevac display. It sounds like a stuck flap but just for then demister. Any ideas how to fix this? Cheers.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: i have a range rover
Almost certainly blend motor failure. The heater matrix has several blend motors which divert hot or cold air the vents you select. The problem is, the buggers fail. Their £200 each and a nightmare to get to. Unless you actually want to remove your entire dash i suggest you put up with it. I understand a garage will charge about £1500.
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
I just replaced the "Final Stage Resistor" in my 2001 330i. Fixed the probelm 100% !!!. I followed the instructions descibed found here and on other sites. A little challenging, mostly becasue I hate working upside down, but the repair went as descibed. If you're even moderatley handy this is a straighforward project. I'd say about 60 minutes to carefully remove everything and about 30 minutes to put it all back together. Beats $500+ at the dealer!
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
The last one of these I saw the filter was in the tank.This is after checking the manual that said it was in the RH rear wheel arch.
Posted on May 16, 2009
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
Not sure if this what you need for the "P38" but it is for the 1996 Range Rover.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.
Click on the following Link. It has the several Serpentine Belt Diagrams, one of which matches your specific vehicle with your particular options (AC, Power Steering etc..).
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Rotate/Move the Tensioner away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
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