Question about 2005 Peugeot 407 2.0

1 Answer

The car does not give any problem when the engine is still cool, but once the engine become warm, gear 1,3,4,5 goes well but gear 2 does not and the PRND sign display on the screen until you switch off the engine and become cool.

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Greenhorn:

    A rookie expert who has answered 20 questions on their first day.

    Corporal:

    An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 20 Answers

Please check your transmission fluid levels, sometimes with older models or those that have developed cracks will leak fluid and leak faster upon heating up. Be particularly careful as this problem may worsen if ignored. You should run the car for a while, once or twice around the block should do it, before checking the level to make sure you get a more accurate measurement. Transmission fluid is cheap, new transmissions are not.

Posted on Nov 21, 2013

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

2003 chrysler town and coy try, temp gauge goes up and heater gets warm when idling, but as we drive the temp gauge goes way down and heater blows cool air. Any suggestions?


1. Engine Coolant Temperature.
If the thermostat in the cooling system is getting stuck in the open or partially open position rather than opening and closing as needed to keep the coolant at the required operating temperature then you will get the results you have described here with the coolant temp dropping as you drive. The radiator is providing optimum cooling when the car is moving and there is plenty of cold air flow through it.
I am assuming the temp gauge in the vehicle is reading correctly.

Thermostats in the cooling system do become faulty in time and it may well never have been changed (or only changed once) since the car was built and is possibly gummed up with debris. With those symptoms I would definitely change the thermostat. Make sure a full flush of the cooling system is done at the same time and refilled with fresh coolant.

2. In Car Heater.
I would not worry about the interior heating until you change the thermostat on the cooling system. However if you continue to get cold air from the heater then there will be an issue with hot coolant from the cooling system being restricted in flowing through the heater core.

Feb 22, 2016 | Chrysler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rav4 1997 engine heating


The description of your "Problem" is pretty vague. I guess you have an engine that is OVERheating? If that is the case, do not drive it further as you might blow the head gasket if it already isn't. Engine overheating can be caused by a few problems. Easy ones first -

#1 - Replace your thermostat. Do that and check #3 at the same time.
#2. - Blockage(s) in your cooling system. Over time/mileage, the antifreeze/coolant breaks down and actually becomes ineffective in it's purpose (cooling - antifreezing). Not only does it become ineffective, but can actually become a contaminant to the engine and important engine seals causing premature breakdown by building up blockages and flow inhibition points through the very small passages inside your engine and radiator. If your cooling system has not been flushed and serviced (leak check, flow test, etc.) every 60,000 miles, it is definitely time for it. Overall charge for this service is usually $85-$135 at most garages. At a dealer, - likely $200 minimum. It is a relatively simple procedure, just messy and time consuming, not to mention what to do with your old antifreeze/coolant - don't let it drain into streets as dogs love to drink and it is fatal for them to do so. I can step you through the process, just let me know.
#3. - Water pump may be on it's way out. Your 1997 is roughly 17-18 yrs old = 200,000+ miles. That is about past the time engine components start their breakdown process regardless of preventive maintenance performed. Usually a water pump will start to "weep" when it is ending it's life of service. There is a small weephole at the base that will drip coolant/antifreeze once the seal that covers the bearings starts giving out. The drip starts almost imperceptibly, steadily gaining in volume and frequency the longer it runs. If you happen to notice your cooling system needing to be topped off after a few days of running, or sometimes you can smell the coolant (sweet smell) while the motor is running, then this is a possible sign your pump is needing replacing - or you might just have a small leak above a hot area of the engine and the coolant is vaporizing when it comes into contact with this superheated area. Anyway, waiting for the water pump to actually fail is another option - prolonging the inevitable - but once it does, do not attempt to "limp" home unless you take several hours to get a few miles - drive 1, stop & cool for hour, drive 1, stop & cool for hour, etc. Don't entirely rely on your temp gauge/light to keep it from overheating. Temp gauges and/or sensors typically require the fluid to flow across the sensor before giving a reading/warning. When the water pump gives out, the flow is interrupted and the gauges/sensors can give false readings. If you decide to change your water pump yourself and need help, I recommend Haynes or Chilton manuals. Excellent resources for this type of job. (about $30). Good luck

Apr 29, 2014 | 2002 Toyota Rav

1 Answer

Over heats while idling


2 Possible causes.

#1. - Blockage(s) in your cooling system. Over time/mileage, the antifreeze/coolant breaks down and actually becomes ineffective in it's purpose (cooling - antifreezing). Not only does it become ineffective, but can actually become a contaminant to the engine and important engine seals causing premature breakdown by building up blockages and flow inhibition points through the very small passages inside your engine and radiator. If your cooling system has not been flushed and serviced (leak check, flow test, etc.) every 60,000 miles, it is definitely time for it. Overall charge for this service is usually $85-$135 at most garages. At a dealer, - likely $200 minimum. It is a relatively simple procedure, just messy and time consuming, not to mention what to do with your old antifreeze/coolant - don't let it drain into streets as dogs love to drink and it is fatal for them to do so. I can step you through the process, just let me know.

#2. - Water pump may be on it's way out. Your 2001 is roughly 13-14 yrs old = 150,000+ miles. That is about the time engine components start their breakdown process regardless of preventive maintenance performed. Usually a water pump will start to "weep" when it is ending it's life of service. There is a small weephole at the base that will drip coolant/antifreeze once the seal that covers the bearings starts giving out. The drip starts almost imperceptibly, steadily gaining in volume and frequency the longer it runs. If you happen to notice your cooling system needing to be topped off after a few days of running, or sometimes you can smell the coolant (sweet smell) while the motor is running, then this is a possible sign your pump is needing replacing - or you might just have a small leak above a hot area of the engine and the coolant is vaporizing when it comes into contact with this superheated area. Anyway, waiting for the water pump to actually fail is another option - prolonging the inevitable - but once it does, do not attempt to "limp" home unless you take several hours to get a few miles - drive 1, stop & cool for hour, drive 1, stop & cool for hour, etc. Don't entirely rely on your temp gauge/light to keep it from overheating. Temp gauges and/or sensors typically require the fluid to flow across the sensor before giving a reading/warning. When the water pump gives out, the flow is interrupted and the gauges/sensors can give false readings. If you decide to change your water pump yourself and need help, I recommend Haynes or Chilton manuals. Excellent resources for this type of job. (about $30). Good luck

Apr 04, 2014 | 2001 Jaguar S-Type

1 Answer

Suzuki esteem lack of power / hesitation


I noticed you did a lot in trying to find the problem but I noticed that you never ran the fault codes to check for where the problem was. Run the fault codes and tell us what they were.

Dec 12, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

07 petrol citroen xsara picasso judder/loss power after 1/4 mile from cold


service the car, put correct engine oil in it and also change gear box oil

Apr 03, 2013 | 2007 Citroen Xsara Picasso

1 Answer

Subaru wagon dies once the engine is warm


What year and model?Could be the temperature sender giving the computer a false reading.

Mar 19, 2013 | Subaru Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When warmed up trans slips in 1st gear from stop


There will be no plug you have to drop the transmission pan. But the real issue may be 1st gear is failing so be prepared for a transmission rebuild before it completly goes out.

Apr 16, 2010 | 1989 Buick Reatta

1 Answer

Have 94 toyota corona 1800 auto that has just started taking longer 2 change n2 top gear when first started.ok once warmed up.270000 kms so not worth spending much on it.is there a quick fix?


on some toyotas they lock out hi gear until the engine temp reaches a preset value ... thats to prevent lugging down a cold engine .. there is sometimes a light on the dash that indicates low engine temp .. when it goes out then the high gear is enabled ... if yours is now taking longer than normal then you might have a bad thermostat (causing engine to take longer to warm up) .. of course at 270,000 miles you might be pressing your luck if thats the original transmission .. those cars seem to last forever (almost) ..

Sep 28, 2009 | 1993 Toyota Camry V6

Not finding what you are looking for?
2005 Peugeot 407 2.0 Logo

121 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Peugeot Experts

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76070 Answers

scj103

Level 2 Expert

81 Answers

Are you a Peugeot Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...