Question about Mercedes-Benz E-Class
Looking for tighting sequence and touque setting on cylindar head after skimming and replacing head gasket
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: head bolt touqe settings
Do not reuse the bolts as they may be stretched.
Cylinder head to engine block
Stage 1: 32Ft-lbs
Stage 2: +90degrees
Stage 3: +90degrees
Cylinder head to lower timing
chain cover: 89in-lbs
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
Head Bolt Torque For your 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (3.4L SFI DOHC): Foot pounds (Final torque) Note: Torque sequence --------- | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | --------- Step 1: torque in sequence to 33 Ft/Lbs Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque. Foot pounds (Final torque) Note: Torque sequence --------- | 8 4 1 5 | | 7 3 2 6 | front --------- of engine | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | Step 1: torque to 40 Ft/Lbs --------- Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
SOURCE: 4g67 head tourqe settings
Just to add to previous solution...
Assuming your head is straight & without defects, ensure you follow the correct tightening sequence diagram (see numbers) below:
Front of engine
n 10 8 x
a 4 6 a
e 2 1 s
i 7 9 i
1) Apply a small amount of engine oil to the thread section of the bolt and install so the chamfer of the washer faces upward.
2) In the proper tightening sequence (as shown above), torque bolts initially to 22 ft.lbs. (30Nm)
3) In the proper tightening sequence, now torque bolts to 45 ft.lbs. (61Nm)
4) In the proper tightening sequence, finally torque bolts to 68 ft.lbs. (92Nm)
Now you can Install the Camshaft sprocket and tighten it to 65 ft.lbs. (90Nm), while holding sprocket in place using the correct wrench.
Confirm proper timing mark alignment.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
the "sniffer" in this case is a device to detect the presents of combustion gasses in the water or radiator .... if there is a good head gasket seal then there should be no combustion gas in the water .... if there is even a small leak then the high pressure gasses will be forced into the water .. the opposite is true when you turn off the engine ... as it cools, pressure in the radiator can force water thru the leak back into the engine .... this also happens during the intake stroke .. so you would be losing water that you might see or smell come out the tail pipe ...the fact that the failure has happened a second time might indicate that you had a warped head or block .. or perhaps a micro crack or surface flaw.. those things should have been checked when the last repairs were done ... i am wondering if the repair shop might negotiate a reduced rate for the redo ... often heads are slightly machined to remove any warp or surface faults during such repairs (if any problems are suspected) ... a used replacement engine could have the same problem or worse .. so if yours is otherwise in good shape then it might be worth while to give it another go ,.. sounds like a good garage, hopefully they will cooperate ... and they might be interested in finding out themselves what happened ...
Posted on Apr 10, 2010
CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence, bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt No.11.
Posted on Apr 21, 2010
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