Question about Cars & Trucks
Replaced alternator and battery, still only gettin 12v off the new alternator, also had auto zone check the old alternator they said it was good, also check positive and negative cable for corrosion, i just dont now what else to check
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I don't know if your car has an integrated regulator or not; some house the regulator in a section of the alternator case, others mount it remote from it.
The regulator monitors the load and battery voltag,e primitively but effectively, and controls the current flowing through the field winding of the alternator to ground, changing the magnetic field intensity and consequently the voltage output of the alternator.
The 'hot' end of the field is internally connected to the + output, the 'cold' end is controlled by a transistor inside the regulator which, in turn, is controlled by circuitry monitoring the system voltage.
Some alternators can be tested by sticking a wire through a specified opening, actually shorting the controlled end of the field to ground briefly, while monitoring the voltage across the battery, doing this though for seconds only.
This essentially bypasses a suspected defective regulator; this causes the output voltage to rise instantly to its maximum of ~17 volts if the alternator is OK.
I don't recommend poking a wire at random into an available opening so having a service manual (Haynes-Chilton) would be nearly mandatory.
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
SOURCE: 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 starter
You said it's a new start that was tested thoroughly, but just wanted to point out that if the drive
mechanism is damaged or hung up, the motor may spin but not crank
The drive gear should move
out when the starter starts to spin, if it's locked
up or turns freely either way, the drive is bad and needs to be
The other possibility is that the flywheel has some broken or damaged teeth that are preventing the starter from engaging. It may sound far fetched but there are really only a couple of reasons why the flywheel wouldn't be spinning, as a starter has a LOT of torque and shouldn't have any problem at all moving the flywheel.
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
First check alt At The Back of Alt Big Red Wire Were hooks to Post (stud) Do you have voltage ?? How Much??
What Voltage do you have at same Place with Engine Running ??
Now At wires Were they plug into Alt ,Top. Wires in White Plastic Clip, Do You Have Powe With Key On ?? How Much Voltage??
Jump across the 2 in the clip (with Engine Running)ONLY TEMPORARY!! Do You Have Voltage at Battery ?? How Much??
If Over 13volts With Clip On (Jumped) You Need A Internal Voltage Regulator ..
Is Batt Light On on Dash ??? Theres A Lot Of Testing You Can Do !!! And I will Need More Infomation to Keep Going ... These are just some Possible Problems No Way In Depth ...
Could Be a Number of things Or May be Just as Simple As a Blown Fuse, Dirty Batt Cables ETC etc etc I Hope It Puts You On The Right track !!!!!!!!!!
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
djn, I believe you have some accessory that is on when the key is in the off position.
Check to make certain glove box light is not on when the glove box door is closed and the trunk light is not on.
If you have an aftermarket radio or any added accessories make sure they are not wired direct to battery voltage.
If all that checks out, disconnect the battery negative and connect a test light between the battery and battery cable. If the light is on you have a drain in the electrical system. Leave the light connected and begin removing 1 fuse at a time until the light goes out, that will tell you what component or circuit is draining the battery.
Last resort, you may have an alternator drawing the battery down.
Good luck and let me know.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
I had the same problem on a 94 dodge with the cummins. It seems the crank sensor that reads from a notch on the harmonic balancer was the problem Without this sensor reading that the engine is running the alternator wont charge. Possibly the same problem with yours
Posted on May 03, 2009
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