Question about 2005 Nissan Altima

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I have a 05 Nissan Altima 2.5 s and the vehicle had been serviced at Nissan dealership up until I baught car. At 110,500 miles engine jumped timing, spent 5,200$ on a remanufactured motor to replace old one,ever sense this the check engine light has came on stating lean bank one code. I've checked everything except for 2 what seems to be some type of vacume lines. The one I'm concerned about is located on driver side&was connected to connector on oem intake system-leading the line hose @ the bottom of where mass air flow sensor connector connects to intake n leads to a grouping of wires(note I am a pretty smart diagnosing problem solver especially on any Honda's/acuras, n HAV a uncle who is a mechanic but along with me is baffled-on the whole C vtc motors(2.5 and the3.5) due to u can't replace battery or replace factory intake system(w/a short ram intake/following all protocols without check engine throwing a code) keeping check engine light on.Only thing that's been done to vehicle is a short ram intake installed on oem throttlebody&new battery n new positive n negative main wires(both properly grounded n connected/while doing this I replaced front oem headlights with oem spec aftermarket (eagle eye brand-both direct connect to oem specs) and noticed my Foglights along with wiring was stolin along with my mass air flow connector was cut-n removed from short ram intake along with a lot of my suspension( eibach springs& sportline shocks, drilled n sloted rotors even down to oem brake fluid reservoir-to many others but thug thiefs left me with many cut wires(ecu/mass air connector/knock sensor/got new ecu connector and had flashed for it to b read properly b4 instaling-etc no problems until reconnecting maf sensor connector/to the oem intake(it would start n idle erratically n quit/ran code n was lean bank one(02sensor located under heat shield of headers-took out to inspect non cracks n shorts n ny firings etc along with all new oem exaust system/from what I know 05models didn't HAV cat recalls but many others/next checkers serpintine belt & bolts etc everything was to spec-then checked plug/boots/basically everything connected to distributor(everything was to spec n nk problems except for a broke boot which I did/another words I'm fed up with car n taking break fRom me going nuts anymore than I am from what all I've done/(*?-if it's still throwing lean bank one code after all that&only basic maintenance thing I need to do is replace fuel filter in 3900miles it's do for changing. Can anyone help with possibly a diagram of where hoses lead to/connect(near intake?) AWhole diagram of all would b ok too. Along with ny suggestions on what may b causing problem?*-engine starts n drives fine/no exaust leaks-goes through gears smooth(it's a automatic) but it has a small hesitation to giving it (anymore than babying it n driving slow n normal) n without moving foot a cm while driving especially when letting off gas just a bit(say driving down interstate 65 2 62mph) makes car feel like motor mount or two r loose just jumpy. Please help an aggravated man b4 I loose it on this(1st Nissan owned-I'm 27 yrs old n have had& built/owned 34 cars 33Honda's(built every motor bye Honda from b15 2 k20-n I hate but live this 05Nissan-look etc if car just beyond aggravated.

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


SOURCE: 03 Altima ( 2.5 ) crank position sensor - retired ASE Master Teck

and YOU took much to long to answer --BUT thanks for your attempt -

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5S, Check Engine Light Problem.

this problem could be caused by the mass air flow censor, i had the same problem with my car. it is really pricey at the dealer so you might want to check elsewhere for this part. I found one at a scrap yard for 85% less that the dealer and i also got life time warranty, the dealer does not offer any warranty on this part.

Posted on Oct 22, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Nissan Hardbody has rough idle/surges/stalls

the 2001 altima is what i have and I had the same problem as you. turned out to be a bad head gasket factory used cheap ones for a few years before they found the problem. one way to test this is to get a can of carborator cleaner and spray it around the area where the head meets the block under the intake problem should be around the 4th cylinder or close to driver side. if the head gasket is bad the rough idle will smooth out while you are spraying the head.

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: p0240 catalyst system below threshold bank 1

This code has plagued technicians nationwide. This code is set because the computer is not reading the proper signals from the O2 sensors. This could either be related to faulty sensors or just a weak catalytic converter. There is also other solutions where you can dampen the O2 sensor signal but it's extremely difficult for a do-it-your-selfer to do.

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

  • 75 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Ford Explorer v- 6 OHV Check engine light

OK. Since you have had so much trouble lets check the dealer for an updated software calibration for the PCM (power train control module). Once we're sure there is no "fix" here lets talk about "lean" engine conditions. Lean means one of two things are wrong with the air fuel mixture (ideally 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel). 1. Too much air -or- 2. Not enough fuel. If you access to a scan tool we need to look at fuel trims. With the engine warm look at this data on the scan tool. You have a "bank 1" and "bank 2" fuel trim data. Additionally, each bank has a long term and a short term value. With the Engine hot and at idle add the LT and ST trim value for bank1 and write it the same for bank2. Repeat this step, for EACH bank with engine at 2500 RPM in park (hold at 2500 for at least 30 seconds so trims update). Now, you have the total trim values for each bank at idle and at 2500 RPM. What should the values be? Total trim +/- 5 is good, +/- 10 borderline any thing greater is code setting territory. If trim numbers are high at idle and in range at 2500 rpm you have a vacum leak behind the mass air flow sensor. Or a faulty MAF. Pay particular attention to the air inlet hose clamps behind (between MAF and engine) the MAF. Also use ford parts only.

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

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You are absolutely correct

Dealers will sell you as may services as
possible,then on the 4th time there,start
to diagnose your initial drivability issues

You most likely had misfires for years ,and
now the O2 Sensors and Converters are ruined

I don't dislike dealers, but have never recommended
them for the last 46 years. I learned real earlier in
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Forget about the Nissan dealer and take your vehicle to one of the auto parts suppliers to have a diagnosis made, then find a competent mechanic to confirm the diagnosis and make necessary repairs.

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