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How do I adjust my Holley 4 barrel on a 4.3 liter chevy engine. Starts and runs fine till it warms up then dies and won't start for 30 min.

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  • 90 Answers

Sounds like your coil is getting hot then when it cools down the engine re starts check coil look for hot spot or touch it see if it is hot it should be cold.

Posted on Nov 23, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 chevy lumina 3.1 starts cold but when warm shuts off

replace the ignition control module.

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: carb adjustments for a 1970's Ford Pinto 2.3 liter 2barrel engine

I have the Petronics electronic distributor kit for that motor ,jkjhenry@cox.net

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Fuel pressure intermittently drops causing sputter and die.

check for 12v constant at your fuel pump if you are not getting that replace your relay.
if you are getting 12 volts at your fuel pump the fuel pump is possible to run tuel it gets warm then shut down to a lower rpm I would then replace the fuel pump

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1983 Ford F250 with a 460 engine and the

Charles: What is the harging voltage on the battery? If between 13.6 and 14,2 you are fine. It does affect performance. Second, Has your fuel filter been changed? Turn your lights on and see if it acts up, then off. If it does act up with lights on, Your alt is not keeping up. Fuel filtrts are inexpensive. Good Luck. Oh, The distributor cap and rotor. _Ned_

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: My 1978 Chevy truck will choke down and die

Not sure what "choke down" means. If you mean run really rich and smoke black, like the choke is stuck, look at the choke linkage. If you mean lay down and give no power, but not smoke black and not sound farty and blubbery, that is likely not a choke problem.

Look at the fuel filter. They can be mostly clogged but pass enough fuel to get by under most situations; also their internal gunk load can shift, causing a filter that was serving okay to be clogged at a moment's notice.

Check the gas cap and the tank vent / evaporative emissions system - if air can't get in to replace the fuel you removed from the tank, pretty soon your fuel pump is trying to **** fuel out of a tank that is already under a vacuum.

If those two are OK, throw an ignition coil in it. They are cheap and easy enough, and a failing one will intermittently lay down and give weak sparks. If you can catch the truck in its failure mode, try loosening one of the plug wires (either end) and holding it a half inch away from its previous mount. You should get fat bright blue sparks jumping the gap, snapping as they fly; if they won't jump that far, or sound or look wimpy, your coil is suspect.

If you change your coil and the problem goes away, give the truck a tune-up - cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, and also change the ignition module (an extra $20 for a cheapie.) Coils don't die of old age; they die of overwork, like trying to push very high voltage through high-resistance spark plug wires and across worn-out plugs. The ignition module has to handle all of the power that goes through the coil, and if the coil is stressed, so is the module. They can fail without warning, stranding you until the module cools down enough (30 minutes to six hours) that it will run again.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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JUST REPLACED CARB ON MY 1992 CHEVY SILVERADO WITH A 4.3 LITER. NOW IT STARTS AND RUNS FINE UNTIL IT WARMS UP THEN DIES AND WONT START FOR 30 MIN


How many rpm's is it running at when you first start it up and it is running on the choke? Does it gradually start to idle back and then start to die r does it do it all of a sudden and dies?

When running with the choke on, it is on the high idle circuit of the carb, as it warms up the idle should slow down and then idle in the 800 rpm range in Park, 650 in Drive. This will be the low idle circuit range. This transition inside the carb will cover an idle air bleed hole in the venturi of the carb and lean out the mixture. If you notice that the carb smells gassy and black rich unburnt gases are coming from the tailpipe, the problem is located within the carb and requires a carb tech to do a rebuild of the carb. You could try a good carb cleaner like Lucas by putting it into the gas tank, in case you just got a bad tank of gas, but that is just a bandaid for a more deeply rooted problem. Get the carb rebuilt?

Nov 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Car dies when it warms up. just replaced carb, think it has to do with this


Vapor lock again! Make sure the fuel lines are away from hot surfaces, or insulated.
Also, when it warms up, the automatic choke turns off, and the idle setting has to be set to run at that temp. There will be idle jets, maybe two, and idle stop setting for the linkage.

Nov 26, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When my 1972 chevrolet 350 4 barrel is warmed up it acts like its not getting gas and jerks and eventually dies. if i wait a few minutes it will start up but after slight acceleration it starts it aga


Good chance it is not getting fuel, or enough fuel.
When the rig is cold, the choke is closed. As it warms up, the choke opens.
If the metering jets inside the carb are dirty, they may not be letting enough fuel into the barrels. You could also have a vac leak that is masked by the choke until the engine warms up.

Jul 21, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1986 dodge ram 225ci slant six and a single barrel holley carb


Start with the idle needle screw first, the idle mixture screw. Seat it all the way in, first-don't overtighten and damage it, just seat it lightly, and back out two full turns. Run the engine and set the adjustment by ear to get your best lean idle: start turning the screw in (clockwise) 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time till engine stumbles, dies, or runs rough. Keep the engine running, and turn screw out (counterclockwise) a little at a time till you hear the idle dropping. Now between those two settings is your best lean idle. Turn the screw in, a little at a time and wait for engine to respond, tiill you get the highest idle speed. Now set the other idle screw, curb idle, to the idle setting for your truck, probably about 700 rpm. You can move back and forth between the screws to get the best steady idle. Just don't over do it on the idle mixture screw.
Good luck.

May 08, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

86 dodge D100 dies and wont restart


Sounds like vapor lock. In laymans terms the engine heat causes the fuel flow to stop. Once everything cools off the truck starts. Insulating around the fuel line seems to be the solution. Try aluminum foil. Or perhaps a reroute of the fuel line to get it away from direct engine heat.

Apr 09, 2010 | 1986 Dodge D150

1 Answer

Fuel pressure intermittently drops causing sputter and die.


check for 12v constant at your fuel pump if you are not getting that replace your relay.
if you are getting 12 volts at your fuel pump the fuel pump is possible to run tuel it gets warm then shut down to a lower rpm I would then replace the fuel pump

Oct 10, 2009 | 1994 Dodge Ram

2 Answers

Carb adjustments for a 1970's Ford Pinto 2.3 liter 2barrel engine


I have the Petronics electronic distributor kit for that motor ,jkjhenry@cox.net

Sep 15, 2009 | 1983 Ford Escort Gt

1 Answer

After pumping the gas alot my truck starts and then shuts off


Check the fuel filter, if ok, disconnect the fuel hose from the carb and ask someone to start the engine, if fuel comes from the disconected hose the problem is in the carb, if not, check the fuel pump.
Make sure before you disconnect the fuel hose to disengage the coil.

Dec 12, 2008 | 1984 Ford F 150

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