Question about Cars & Trucks
Sounds like your coil is getting hot then when it cools down the engine re starts check coil look for hot spot or touch it see if it is hot it should be cold.
Posted on Nov 23, 2013
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check for 12v constant at your fuel pump if you are not getting that replace your relay.
if you are getting 12 volts at your fuel pump the fuel pump is possible to run tuel it gets warm then shut down to a lower rpm I would then replace the fuel pump
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Charles: What is the harging voltage on the battery? If between 13.6 and 14,2 you are fine. It does affect performance. Second, Has your fuel filter been changed? Turn your lights on and see if it acts up, then off. If it does act up with lights on, Your alt is not keeping up. Fuel filtrts are inexpensive. Good Luck. Oh, The distributor cap and rotor. _Ned_
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
Not sure what "choke down" means. If you mean run really rich and smoke black, like the choke is stuck, look at the choke linkage. If you mean lay down and give no power, but not smoke black and not sound farty and blubbery, that is likely not a choke problem.
Look at the fuel filter. They can be mostly clogged but pass enough fuel to get by under most situations; also their internal gunk load can shift, causing a filter that was serving okay to be clogged at a moment's notice.
Check the gas cap and the tank vent / evaporative emissions system - if air can't get in to replace the fuel you removed from the tank, pretty soon your fuel pump is trying to **** fuel out of a tank that is already under a vacuum.
If those two are OK, throw an ignition coil in it. They are cheap and easy enough, and a failing one will intermittently lay down and give weak sparks. If you can catch the truck in its failure mode, try loosening one of the plug wires (either end) and holding it a half inch away from its previous mount. You should get fat bright blue sparks jumping the gap, snapping as they fly; if they won't jump that far, or sound or look wimpy, your coil is suspect.
If you change your coil and the problem goes away, give the truck a tune-up - cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, and also change the ignition module (an extra $20 for a cheapie.) Coils don't die of old age; they die of overwork, like trying to push very high voltage through high-resistance spark plug wires and across worn-out plugs. The ignition module has to handle all of the power that goes through the coil, and if the coil is stressed, so is the module. They can fail without warning, stranding you until the module cools down enough (30 minutes to six hours) that it will run again.
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Nov 26, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Nov 20, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Nov 20, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
May 08, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Apr 09, 2010 | 1986 Dodge D150
Oct 10, 2009 | 1994 Dodge Ram
Sep 15, 2009 | 1983 Ford Escort Gt
Dec 12, 2008 | 1984 Ford F 150
104 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!