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Just replaced carb on a 4.3 liter chevy silverado with a Holley 4 barrel. Has electric choke. It will stay running till it warms up then it dies and won't start again for about an hour. What's the problem?

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  • 90 Answers

Sounds like a bad coil check and replace

Posted on Nov 23, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2000 chevy silverado 5.3 liter

Like you gays say, it's was the crank sensor,just replace the sensor yesturday5/12/2009,it's working very good.Thank you so much.

Posted on May 13, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: My 1978 Chevy truck will choke down and die

Not sure what "choke down" means. If you mean run really rich and smoke black, like the choke is stuck, look at the choke linkage. If you mean lay down and give no power, but not smoke black and not sound farty and blubbery, that is likely not a choke problem.

Look at the fuel filter. They can be mostly clogged but pass enough fuel to get by under most situations; also their internal gunk load can shift, causing a filter that was serving okay to be clogged at a moment's notice.

Check the gas cap and the tank vent / evaporative emissions system - if air can't get in to replace the fuel you removed from the tank, pretty soon your fuel pump is trying to **** fuel out of a tank that is already under a vacuum.

If those two are OK, throw an ignition coil in it. They are cheap and easy enough, and a failing one will intermittently lay down and give weak sparks. If you can catch the truck in its failure mode, try loosening one of the plug wires (either end) and holding it a half inch away from its previous mount. You should get fat bright blue sparks jumping the gap, snapping as they fly; if they won't jump that far, or sound or look wimpy, your coil is suspect.

If you change your coil and the problem goes away, give the truck a tune-up - cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, and also change the ignition module (an extra $20 for a cheapie.) Coils don't die of old age; they die of overwork, like trying to push very high voltage through high-resistance spark plug wires and across worn-out plugs. The ignition module has to handle all of the power that goes through the coil, and if the coil is stressed, so is the module. They can fail without warning, stranding you until the module cools down enough (30 minutes to six hours) that it will run again.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 93 chevy lumina euro won't stay running

sounds like it could be a fuel injector shorting out. have to get it hot, pull off the plenum and check the resistance in each injector. if any injector has bad resistance, replace it. when an injector shorts out on these particular vehicles, it shorts out the whole injection circuit. and when it cools off the resistance goes back up and it will run ok. i think the correct resistance should be about 13 ohms.

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: 88 CHEVY PICKUP SILVERADO STOPS RUNNING IS JUST WARM

Sounds like a bad ignition coil. Check for spark right after it quits Coils can and do quit working after they get hot. Also check magnetic pick up coil in distributor. After reaching operating temp computer will move the coil and a broke corroded wire loses connection. Then when engine back to cold wire is back in contact and working. Hope this helped.

Posted on Mar 21, 2010

hfmiles
  • 1165 Answers

SOURCE: 1981 chevy pickup with a carburated 305 is hard

Is the choke operating properly? You say the current carb has an electric choke, so I am assuming the original carb did not have an electric choke. If that's the case, have you wired the electric choke to a power supply?

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

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How many rpm's is it running at when you first start it up and it is running on the choke? Does it gradually start to idle back and then start to die r does it do it all of a sudden and dies?

When running with the choke on, it is on the high idle circuit of the carb, as it warms up the idle should slow down and then idle in the 800 rpm range in Park, 650 in Drive. This will be the low idle circuit range. This transition inside the carb will cover an idle air bleed hole in the venturi of the carb and lean out the mixture. If you notice that the carb smells gassy and black rich unburnt gases are coming from the tailpipe, the problem is located within the carb and requires a carb tech to do a rebuild of the carb. You could try a good carb cleaner like Lucas by putting it into the gas tank, in case you just got a bad tank of gas, but that is just a bandaid for a more deeply rooted problem. Get the carb rebuilt?

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Vapor lock again! Make sure the fuel lines are away from hot surfaces, or insulated.
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Is the choke operating properly? You say the current carb has an electric choke, so I am assuming the original carb did not have an electric choke. If that's the case, have you wired the electric choke to a power supply?

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Is the electric fuel pump regulated? If the fuel pressure is above 8 lbs, you could run into this issue or the float / needle / seat could have a problem or miss adjusted.

By the way, a 2007 GMC is not carbureted so I assume this is not the vehicle or it has been modified.

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