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280zx shuts off when warm.

Ive did tuneup also new coil, battery, distributor, ignition module. New cap, wires, rotor. I replace ignition switch with a wrecking yard part. I havent check any of the fuel pump relays or cleaned terminals on ECU. I noticed a condenser thats wire to the coil. Could fhat be tne cause of the engine sbutting off when warm? Ive touched the coil, the ignition module to see if they are warm, but they are not. However the car usully starts after it sits for 10 min. If not it will if I spray starting fluid into intake. I had a broken wire to the temp gauge sending unit. I made that repair. I havent tested the cold start valve yet. Right now im going to check my fuzable links to fuel pump, also going to change fuel pump relays. I have several in my garage. Should I change the condenser that is wired to the coil? Its a very cheap fix. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Check ground wire to battery and your catalytic converter

Posted on Nov 20, 2013

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SOURCE: 83 280 zx dyes when warm. Complete tune up. Then new distributor and ignition module. Change ignition switch with many of the used ones ive got from wrecking yard. I havent cleaned terminals on ECU or

Hello! I've been there too. I guess you have touched your coil after the engine stops. If the coil is hot, usually the cause is a very high resistance in the high tension circuit. That is between the coil and spark plugs. Probably something makes a false contact or loose conection or the gap at the plugs it too big.
If your coil is cold, perhaps your coolant temperature sensor is bad. This sensor tells the ecu or the cold start valve to squirt more fuel. When it fails your engine can't start when cold or it dies when hot depending on the failure type. Another thing which can go wrong if your coil is cold can be the cold start valve. This is an auxiliar injector located at the throttle body. When it fails, it simply doesn't inject fuel or injects all the time! (Only 80's cars have cold start valve)

Posted on Nov 20, 2013

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2000 Chevy express Van 4.3 motordistributor cap and rotor new friendship position sensor new coil and its mission module our new still no spark


If the ignition coil, crank sensor,ignition ,module ,cap and rotor are new then possibly a bad pick up coil inside the distributor bad ignition coil wire from dist. to coil or missing power supply

May 02, 2015 | Chevrolet Express Cars & Trucks

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83 280 zx dyes when warm. Complete tune up. Then new distributor and ignition module. Change ignition switch with many of the used ones ive got from wrecking yard. I havent cleaned terminals on ECU or


Hello! I've been there too. I guess you have touched your coil after the engine stops. If the coil is hot, usually the cause is a very high resistance in the high tension circuit. That is between the coil and spark plugs. Probably something makes a false contact or loose conection or the gap at the plugs it too big.
If your coil is cold, perhaps your coolant temperature sensor is bad. This sensor tells the ecu or the cold start valve to squirt more fuel. When it fails your engine can't start when cold or it dies when hot depending on the failure type. Another thing which can go wrong if your coil is cold can be the cold start valve. This is an auxiliar injector located at the throttle body. When it fails, it simply doesn't inject fuel or injects all the time! (Only 80's cars have cold start valve)

Nov 19, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Ignition mystery! 1994 GMC Suburban 2500 5.7 mtr. No spark to spark plugs. Have spark from coil to distributor. Have changed coil wire, cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil. have 12.5 volts going to...


I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.

Sep 21, 2013 | Chevrolet Suburban 2500 Cars & Trucks

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I have a 84 camaro with hei distributor motor is a 69 camaro 350 i keep melting the wires on the coil put new coil in car runs good for an hour or so then gets warm and melts wires and stall also did new...


HEI distributor and burning coils,it in you connection first make sure you install primary and secondary prorperly as it comes out of the cap , and inside the cap wire from modules dont make contact if you are burning its from primary circuit, this is the (B+) or (battery most likely), your secondary is your tach and that need to switch from postitive to negative for it to create spark obvously if tach was grounded or applied power you wont start,but there are times the condensor in the distributor does stays fixed and shorts out the coil (replace that condensor its for suppression) when the condensor is replaced run a fused direct wire at B+ (from ignition) run the vehicle and monitor the tach wire and check to see if that get hot

May 08, 2011 | 1984 Chevrolet Camaro

2 Answers

89 vette, 48k, car starts fine, runs about a minute or 2, then shuts down, then wont restart, probably vats, after a few minutes, starts right up only to do the same thing.


Sounds like ignition control module (small plastic piece in bottom of distributor). When it gets warm it's shorting out. Easy fix, disconnect battery, pull cap & rotor - gin module is 2 screws in bottom of distributor and 4 wires - replace wires in exact order and coat bottom of middle with dielectric grease, replace rotor, cap & connect battery NEGATIVE CABLE LAST!

Apr 02, 2011 | 1989 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

1999 silverado 4.3 cranks but no start can hear fuel pump, swaped out coil and crank sensor w/ known good parts no change, engine did start once after coil was changed ran rough and stalled and wont...


First check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

To replace the distributor follow this procedure;

The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these procedures.

There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. This "static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.

Removal;

1. With the engine at top dead center.

2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing indicating the number one position.

3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, Then make a reference mark of the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and the more precise you mark the position, the easier the installation of the new distributor will be. This will be reference mark #1.

4. Remove the distributor lock down bolt, (the lock down clamp will most likely be attached to the distributor and if so it should not be removed from the distributor) then slowly lift up on the distributor about three inches and note the direction that the ignition rotor turns, and when the ignition rotor stops turning then mark the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and then lift the distributor striaght up and out, and remove the gasket or any left over gasket material from the intake manifold. The more precise you mark the position the easier it will be to install the new distributor and an assistant might be helpful. This will be reference mark #2

Once the distributor has been removed it is important that the engine does not get cranked over by the starter or the crankshaft turned at all, or the reference marks will become useless.

Installation;

Be sure that the new distributor is complete with a new module and that there is a new gasket in place on the distributor.

1. Lower the distributor with gasket down into the distrbutor well and align the ignition rotor with the #2 reference mark and when the distributor gear engages the drive gear on the camshaft then the ignition rotor should turn to the #1 reference mark as the distributor sets all the way back down flush on the intake manifold.

2. Install and tighten the lock down bolt, and If the distributor is properly installed then the ignition rotor should be pointing to the #1 reference mark and the #1 position on the distributor housing with the engine on top dead center.

Replace the distributor cap and connect the spark plug wires, and see if the engine will start, if the engine does start and the check engine light does not come on (assuming that it was not on before) then the distributor is properly installed and there is no further timing requirements.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.



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Jul 31, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

4 Answers

I want to replace spark plugs (8) and wires on my '84 GMC pickup


get a 20 dollar haynes or chiltons manuel and find the module and coil. always change the ignition module and coil every 4 no more than -5 years to be safe.

Feb 10, 2010 | GMC Sierra 2500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Replaced entire ignition still no spark 88 305 ci


There are 3 possibilities. 1 the coil. 2 the ignition module. 3 the pick up coil. In my experience the ignition module is the most common cause. It is in the distributor held in with 2 screws. The coil and module can be tested at any parts house. Good Luck

May 26, 2009 | 1988 Chevrolet Suburban

2 Answers

No spark, just put in a new coil, distrbutor isnt dirty or wet, sombody told to check out the littl box's on the fender well, what are these to box's and what is there purpose? Mike 77 cj-5 304 3spd I...


I had the same problem with my 85 cj7 this week, I relpaced the ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and the the coil; still had no fire to plugs. the problem turned out to be my distributor, replaced it today and she fired right up. Most likely it was the pick up module in the distributor that went bad.

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