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Wiring for ignition coil

I am trying to install new ignition coil and am not sure which wire goes to which terminal on the coil. I have a black wire and a white wire...which one is positive and which is negative? Thanks...

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Try turning the key to on, not start, then see which wire has battery voltage on it- use a test light or multi-meter- the wire with power goes to the positive terminal on the coil.

Posted on Nov 20, 2013

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SOURCE: Ignition module wiring on 85 f150

The red wire goes to constant hot and the white wire is on the key on/off. The green is a tach signal and the black is ground.

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SOURCE: Need a wiring diagram for a 1969 Ford F250.

there should be a slot for each wire on back of ignition play with them till you get it right cant hurt anything

Posted on Jan 14, 2010

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SOURCE: need a wiring diagram for 1986 ford mustang 4cyl

Hi!!

You may have the positive cable hooked in the wrong side of the starting selenoid or the starter selenoid is defective.

Follow the RED (+) cable from the battery, it goes to the starter selenoid wich has two terminals, change the cable to the other terminal, that should take care of the problem unless the selenoid is stuck on. Replacement runs about $15.

Don't forget to rate this post. Good Luck!!

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

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Anyone have a wiring diagram or know how to hook this up ?


Black and red are pretty standard for negative & positive battery terminals.
There is likely a model number (pic isn't good enough to see the finer print) on the label but the larger numerals are probably serial numbers and without the model number, you may have a problem finding the exact installation info you want.

The link below has illustrations for a different model but manufacturers will generally stick with a wiring code to make installation and even production simpler:

http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/Jacobs%20Ultra%20Team%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf

That company does not have the web 'presence' they should have by now.

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Is this for a ignition coil output stage open circuit? If so you need to rerun the ground wire. Just but the wire close enough to the coil that you can still get to the wire and splice another wire to it. Just splice a wire to the brown wire and run the rest of the wire to a ground lug under the battery. You will need to remove the battery and the tray. Also when you hook the battery back up make sure the key is on. This will reset alarm and radio. Remember, you are grounding the coil so the wire should go from the coil to ground. Hope this helps

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Let's see if I can explain it. Pretty simple start circuit, but starting issues are very common to Hondas and Toyotas of the '80's and early'90's. Lots of guys used to rewire their start circuits with new wiring and relays from ignition switch to the starter solenoid just to stop those no starts.
From the ignition switch is the black/white start wire, it is hot only in start, goes direct to the "starter cut relay"- a 4 pole starter relay, the black/ white wire (black with a white stripe) is both the power feed and the coil power to the relay. Before the wire enters the relay it is spliced. one wire goes to power feed at relay, other wire goes to coil side of relay. Here's where the clutch switch comes in: the clutch switch acts as the ground for the relay's coil side. Okay, you turn key to start, power goes to the relay on both the power side and the coil side. When clutch is depressed, it grounds the coil side of relay, this energizes the relay, so power goes out of relay on the power side, as a black/red wire...and goes direct to the starter solenoid. Somewhere before it reaches the solenoid, it turns back into a black/white wire. But nothing else is in a wiring diagram for your start circuit. Buy a can of CRC electronic cleaner. Spray all connectors in the start circuit. Pull off the solenoid wire at starter-that connector. Also the starter relay , pull it out and clean the relay terminals where it plugs in. Get all clean connections in the circuit. If no help, swap in a different relay. If still no help, get a voltmeter (or a test light), when the starter doesn't want to work, check for power at the starter solenoid with key held in start, and clutch depressed. If power there, the solenoid is the problem. If no power, work back to the relay. Pull relay out. With key held in start, two terminals for the relay should have power-the coil plus side, and the power feed from the ignition switch. If both have power, may be the clutch switch not grounding the relays coil side. If no power to relay, check the start wire out of the ignition switch.
Need a wiring diagram? This site is awesome-free wir. diagrams and TSB's for every make and model:

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It's not really a switch. Below is a desciption of what the code means. In about 50 percent of the cases it's a bad connection which is causing the failure and there are many tests to check different circuits. In order to rule out the ignitor here is a quick test you can do. Below is a picture of a breakdown of you distributor (yes the ignitor is in the distributor). Take the distributor cap off. Using a digtal volt meter check with your postive probe the black wire terminal connected to the ignition coil and ground the negative probe to a good grouns like the battery. Make sure you are getting at least 10 to 12 volts. If you are check the connection at the brown and black wire between the coil and the ignitor and make sure all is good (like good continuity) If all is good, chances are the ignitor is faulty. If you are not getting the voltage on the first test right at the black wire terminal at the coil the coil could be faulty. As I said it's a 50/50 thing on this code as far as wiring or a componant such as the coil or ignittor. I have found in the past that in most cases if say a coil or ignitor goes bad, it's just bad and you end up in a no start situation but there are those odd cases that outside temps effect everything like engine heat or a componant over heating.Hope this helps and good luck.

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Mar 11, 2012 | 1995 Geo Prizm

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It would be the ignition or those ignition wires because of the kill switch being poorly installed, id try tracing wires first and replace anything thats been cut/spliced into. if not change the ignition

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I need to change the ignition coil on my chrysler reliant. dont know what it looks like or where it is in the engine


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That sounds like a loose cable from the ignition solenoid down at the starter, or the cable between the starter and the starter solenoid is exposed and touching metal ground on the vehicle. Check the condition of the cable to the starter and also be sure that it is tight, and not touching any metal ground surfaces on the vehicle, and if there is nothing wrong with either then the starter is most likely is faulty.


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How do i change the coil


Ignition Coil Removal
  1. Disconnect fuel charging wiring connectors from ignition coil (12029) and radio ignition interference capacitor (18801) .
  1. Disconnect ignition wires by squeezing locking tabs and twisting while pulling upward. e941a97.gif
  2. Remove four ignition coil retaining screws and remove ignition coil and radio ignition interference capacitor . Save radio ignition interference capacitor for installation with ignition coil .
Installation
  1. Position ignition coil and radio ignition interference capacitor to ignition coil mounting bracket.
  1. Install retaining screws and tighten to 4.5-7.0 Nm (40-61 lb-in).
  1. Apply Silicone Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A to all ignition wire boots.
  1. Install each ignition wire connector to the proper terminal on the ignition coil . Make sure boots are fully seated.
  1. Connect fuel charging wiring (9D930) to the ignition coil and radio ignition interference capacitor .

May 10, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

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Where is the ignition control module on an 1989 totota camry


Toyota Camry 1983-1996 Repair Guide Ignition Module - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

External
All engines, except the 2S-ELC, have an external igniter.
  1. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Separate the wiring harness connections.
  3. Unbolt the igniter.
  4. Loosen the nut holding the wire lead onto the coil.
  5. Tag and disconnect the wire lead.
  6. Lift the igniter off its mount.

To install:
  1. Mount the igniter to the bracket.
  2. Attach the wire lead to the coil.
  3. Connect the harness.
  4. Connect the negative battery cable. Reset any digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock if necessary.

Internal
REMOVING IGNITER WITH DISTRIBUTOR
See Figure 1
The internal igniter is only applicable to 2S-ELC engine Camry models. All other engines are equipped with an external igniter assembly.
Review the complete service procedure before this repair. Note position, color of wire and routing of all internal distributor assembly wiring.
  1. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.
  2. Remove the number one spark plug. Place a finger over the spark plug hole and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to top dead center. When there is pressure felt on the finger at the spark plug hole, this will be top dead center of the compression stroke on number one cylinder. If not, repeat the procedure. Install the number one spark plug.
  3. Mark the position of the distributor flange in relation to the camshaft housing. Remove the IIA distributor assembly.
  4. Remove the distributor cap with the wires attached, and remove the packing. Mark the position of the rotor relative to the housing and pull the rotor straight up and off the shaft. The distributor cap is held to the housing with three retaining screws.
  5. Remove the ignition coil dust cover.
  6. Remove the two nuts and spring washers and disconnect the four wires from the terminals on the side of the ignition coil. The wires are color coded yellow, blue, brown and red.
  7. Remove the four retaining screws and remove the ignition coil and packing.
  8. Remove the nuts and disconnect the pink, white and black wires from the igniter terminals. Remove the two igniter retaining screws and remove the igniter.

To install:
  1. Attach the new igniter with the two retaining screws. Connect the pink, black and white wires to their respective terminals and install the nuts. Make sure that the pick-up coil wires are secured in their clips and that there is slack in the wires.
  2. Install the ignition coil and attach it with the four retaining screws.
  3. Connect the four ignition coil wires to their respective terminals and install the two nuts and spring washers.
  4. Install the coil dust cover and push the rotor onto the shaft.
  5. Place the distributor cap and wires into position. Install and tighten the retaining screws.
  6. Install the distributor assembly and connect the negative battery cable.
  7. Connect a tachometer and timing light to the engine and adjust the ignition timing.

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Fig. 1: Make sure you remember where the colored wires attach for installation-2S-ELC engine
  1. Reset any digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock if necessary.

REMOVING IGNITER WITHOUT REMOVING DISTRIBUTOR
  1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and di-electric insulator covers. Disconnect the red and yellow wires from the coil and the pink, white and black wires from the igniter.
  2. Remove the igniter. It may be necessary to mark and rotate the distributor to gain access to the igniter retaining screws. The timing should be checked after the distributor is returned to the mark.

To install:
  1. Install the new igniter using the two new retaining screws.
  2. Twist the pick-up coil wires together, install the white wire first then pink and black wires to their original locations. Make sure the wires do not touch the housing generator or advance plate.
  3. Route the red and yellow wires from the igniter so they do not contact moving parts. Connect the red wire to the right coil terminal (with the brown wire) and the yellow wire to the left terminal (with the blue wire). Replace the covers, rotor and cap.
  4. Connect a tachometer and timing light to the engine and adjust the ignition timing.

Hope this helped (remember comment and rated this).

Apr 05, 2010 | 1989 Toyota Camry

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