Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First of all you need to understand what is happening: One of your car's computers is seeing a problem in the ABS and/or traction control system. 1. If your ABS goes out, the result is just that you don't have 'ABS'. Your brakes will work the same as any other power brake system. 2. If your Traction Control goes out, you now have just the 'limited slip' differential cars have used since 1910. Unless you use alot of ice and snow covered and gravel roads, there isn't really any need for a 'locking' differential. That's essentially what traction control is. Neither problem present a safety issue.
There is one component that both systems share, and fail often - the wheel sensor. The wheel sensor tells the computer if a particular wheel is "slipping", or losing traction. If this happens while braking, it sets an 'ABS' trouble code. Otherwise it sets a Traction Control light. In normal driving, it will set both if it's a wheel sensor.
This car should be taken to a competent mechanic which will probably: (First) erase the codes with a code scanner and drive the car to see if they come back. There's a slim possibility that these are just 'errant codes'. (Second), if the lights come back on, test the wheel sensors and replace the bad one(s). There is no need to go to the dealer for this repair, as it would probably cost twice as much! Any good technician should also thoroughly check your braking system as a rule of thumb. Good Luck! Please let me know what you find out.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
have the car scanned with a scanner capable of reading ABS codes,get back to me with the code and we'll go from there. sounds like like one of the wheel sensors is bad. this controls both ABS and TRACTION CONTROL
Posted on May 15, 2009
The traction light came on in my Ford 500 SEL along with the ABS light. If this happened, the problem was low battery power and a bad alternator. A fully charged battery fixed it for me after driving a couple of miles.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
remove 2 10mm bolts attaching top of headlight to the radiator support.
remove plastic clip attachinig headlight to top/front of fender.
remove 5 phillips screws on top of grill.
carefully pull out grill enough to remove 1 10mm bolt attaching headlight to radiator support and use slotted screwdriver or prybar to seperate headlight tab from the bracket that goes under the bumper cover.
with a little effort and wiggling pull out headlight assembly.
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
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The engine and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM
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