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This must be an older car as most newer models use direct ignition, coil pacs and cam sensors . To clean an older distributor remove ignition plug wires (be sure to label them so you put them back on the correct terminals). Remove cap and check for pitting and burning of contacts on the inside. you can use emery paper to clean light pitting. If badly pitted replace cap. do the same for the rotor the rotor may need to be replaced and is cheap. Wipe out any carbon on the cap. Check tiny wires that attach to ignition module inside distributor body for wear also the pick-up coil. Be very careful as they are fragile and easily broken. If you want to remove the whole distributor assembly . You need to mark the position of the shaft of the rotor to the engine with a white grease pencil so you return it to the exact position. Remove retaing clamp and pull distributor assembly straight up from the engiine block. be careful as there may be a washer or pin in between. Clean with solvent on the bottom grease and return to original positon. Reassemble in reverse order.
disconnect the cable from the negative battry terminal. position the engine with number one cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke this mean you can take number one spark plug out with the engine cool place your thumb over the spark hole and have some one turn the engine over and and feel the presure by your thumb when you feel pressure stop turning engine take the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to number one spark wire in distributor cap if not you may have to turn the engine a little with your hand apply a paint mark on the edge of the distributor body directly below the rotor tip. also make a mark on the distributor base to the engine to ensure the distributor can be re-installed in exactly the same position as originally installed disconnected the coil wires from the distributor cap electrical connector, spark plug wires from the spark plugs remove the distributor hold-down bolt and pull out the distributor.
Good battery, good starter. Leaves spark and fuel.
1. Remove 1 spark plug wire from a plug. Hold near engine block while someone "cranks" the engine.
- Spark (yes/no)
If yes, issue is fuel. If no, remove distributor cap and check for cracks. Also clean inside to remove rust and dirt. Besure that inside of distributor cap is reasonably clean and rust free. After that, reinstall cap.
Try to start engine. IF it is exactly same symptom.....
Check input voltage to coil (high voltage source for distributor). Is 12volts present? If not, troubleshoot wiring between battery source and coil. Be sure to include the fuse for "ignition" in fuse box.
If yes.....Confirm high voltage is present at center (input) wire to distributor (CAUTION:- 30,000 volts could be present... do NOT touch bare wire.) Use insulated plyers or similar to place this center wire near engine block to check for spark. Note that this voltage source is powered on as soon as the ignition key is in the "run" position.
Replace coil if no high voltage is coming out. Replace distributor cap and rotor if high voltage is coming in to it, but not leaving and getting to spark plugs.
Confirm fuel is getting to intake.
I spray starting fluid into intake while cranking engine. It will "fire" if all else is good.
If it "pops" or fires, then you have a fuel feed problem... between tank and intake manifold, shoot fuel filter, fuel pump and otherwise confirm that gas is moving to intake from gas tank.
it might be that when you reassembled it that something is wrong with the lifters.. did you label everyone and put it exactly in the original position? very critical that this be done because of the different wear on the camshaft lobes. all components should be put in exactly in there original positions. this is just a thought.. maybe someone else can come up with an easy fix for you.
If the timing chain is still in the correct position its an easy fix. Put screwdriver down spark plug hole #1 and rotate the engine over by hand until you reach TDC e.g. piston fully up. Now your either on the start of the ignition/power stroke or at the end of the exhaust stroke. Im not sure of the firing order of your specific engine but basicly this means that the engine is either firing on 1 at TDC or its firing on its other piston. Just put the screw driver down the other cylinders and find the other piston thats at TDC. Put the distributor back in so that the rotor button lines up roughly with the post on the cap that lines up with one. Put the cap back on and try and start it. If it almost starts just trim up the cap a little (twist it by a few degree either way) If it sounds way out then pull the distributor back out and line it up with its mate piston.
Hope this helps
check engine light comes on after driving any given amount of time. Replaced egnition modual didn't work, replaced pcv valve, didn't work, replaced stater module, didn't work, replaced the fuel filter, didn't work. Took it in for diagnostics and was told that it is either the egnition module, computer, or the wires that are attached to the computer that go out to different parts in the engine.
The distributor is on the back of the engine (that's the side that the
transmission hooks up to). You will need a socket set and a paint
marker (you might need a screw driver too). Remove the distributor cap
(if the distributor cap is good you can leave the plug wires attached)
carefully mark the rotor and the distributor so that you can easily see
exactly how the two aligned while attached to the engine. trace an
outline around the base of the distributor where it fits into the block
so that when you remove the distributor you will be able to clearly see
exactly how it sat on the engine. remove the bolts that secure the
distributor to the engine. Give the distributor a light twist and pull
hard directly away from the engine. Realign the rotor and distributor
as they were aligned previously. Make note of relative position of the
splines/forks on the back side of the distributor that fit into the
engine. align your replacement distributor and rotor so that it matches
the old one exactly. mark the correct alignment. Making sure that it is
still aligned. insert the new distributor into the engine and lightly
hand tighten the screws. Make sure that the screws are just tight
enough to hold the distributor in place but loose enough to rotate it
with ease. Make sure that the rotor is still properly aligned. make
sure that the distributor is sitting against the engine block exactly
how the old one was. Double check the rotor alignment and tighten the
screws so that the distributor is snug but so that you can still rotate
the distributor with some effort. double check the rotor alignment and
put the cap back on. start the engine and give it some gas by
manipulating the throttle body at the engine compartment. If the engine
doesn't sound right, slowly and carefully rotate the distributor until
it engine sounds like it should and tighten the bolts so that it can't
be rotated any more. close the hood and go for a drive. you can adjust
the timing by rotating the distributor if it still doesn't seem quite