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1999 Mazda B400 Picup hard to start in Cold weather

Its hard to start only in cold werather. But if I turn the ignition switch to on for a few seconds before starting, it will start. If it doesn't the first time, I can do the same thing -turn the ignition switch to on again for a few seconds and usually it will start. But if I just try starting without leaving the ignition switch to on - it will not start. This has happened the last two winters - Only when the temperature gets to about 30 deg and lower.

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  • Cars & Trucks Expert
  • 248 Answers

Try spraying all the distributor & your leads with WD40 this will cure your problem for sure. Best Wishes. Malcolm Campbell.

Posted on Jun 20, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 93 Grand Cherokee 4.0 trouble starting in cold weather

Welcome to the forum. Your question has to many variables. Cold weather out here in Cen Cal this time of year is mid 40s. Is the problem when the vehicle is cold as in ovrernight but starts ok when it is warm? Does it crank OK but seem like it's not getting fuel? If you hold the throttle slightly open, does it start OK?

Posted on May 14, 2008

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SOURCE: 1999 F250 SD 7.3L cold starting problem

Yes, my 2003 did the same with about 75k miles on it, stranded me on days it stayed under 40F unless I plugged in the block heater the night before, then it started like a champ. Dealer replaced the relay and a control unit under ESP warranty. There's no way to fix this one without throwing parts at it.

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 SL-1 fast idle problem during cold weather only

You need to check and/or replace the thermostat and/or the temp. sensor. Take a meat thermometer and stick it in the overflow tank. The temp gauge on the dash should register above the 1/4 mark after at least 15 minutes of driving. If so, the meat thermometer should read above 180 degrees. If the meat thermometer reads 180 but the gauge isn't above 1/4, then you need to replace the sensor. If the meat thermometer doesn't read 180 or higher, then you need to replace the thermostat. The thermostat in these cars, though it doesn't fail on its own, has an unnecessary rubber gasket that fails, and allows coolant to leak past even when shut, causing the engine to not warm up thoroughly. IF the engine doesn't warm up, the idle won't come down--speaking from personal experience. I had to replace both items on my car. Now it idles fine, and after a bit of driving the gauge registers between 1/4 and 1/2, but always above 1/4. DO NOT tamper with idle adjustments unless you have exhausted all other possibilities. They are factory set, critical, and almost never need readjusting. Good luck.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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SOURCE: car getting power, but won't turn over usually when it's cold out

do you have a test light??? you need to find out if power is getting to the starter. do the dash lights dim or go off when you try to start it??

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy S10 cranks but wont start

A very common problem on the 99 S10 is a leaky fuel pressure regulator in the intake plenum.What happens is when the truck sits for a few hours or more the regulator leaks all of the fuel in the fuel injection system into the intake air plenum. This does 2 things, 1 it has no fuel pressure when starting and 2 it floods the air intake with raw fuel. Sometimes if you turn the key on wait 3 seconds then turn key off then turn key back on and just turn key to crank starter for a split second and wait 3 this 3 times to repressurize fuel system then crank to start(you will hear fuel pump buzz each time you do this.also you may have leaky fuel injectors. Try to crank engine with the gas pedel to the floor. This will tell the computer to stop spraying fuel trhough the injectors and it will start. Joe ASE Master Tech

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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Fuel injected or carby,if carby check choke if fuel injected check the cold start injector if it has one.

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I have a 2006 audi a4 3.0 when temperature outside drops below 40 degrees it will not start ,when the temperature outside gets around 45 degrees it starts and runs with no problem . screen reads ok

I assume from the question that the engine is cranking over but will not start. Hence there is no issue with the starter motor on a very cold start.

At 40 degrees F you are getting closer to freezing. When this happens again I would check the operation of the fuel pump.
Take the fuel cap off the fuel tank and have someone switch the ignition on and off a few times. (just the ignition - don't start the engine up). Turn it on for 10 seconds or so and then off. If you listen at the fuel filler opening with the cap off you will be able to hear if the fuel pump starts and stops. If it is working it should start and then stop a few seconds later each time you switch on the ignition because the computer shuts it down in a few seconds if the engine is not started.

If the fuel pump is operating I would be looking for some electrical gremlins. You would need to check that the fuel injectors are getting power and that the spark plugs are also.

Ideally you would need to a quality scan tool connected to the car when you have this very cold no start condition whilst trying to start the car to see what faults may be present because it should pick up some malfunction if the start problem goes away when the temp rises a few degrees over 40F.

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My 1997 nissan maxima won't start when its cold outside. I have always had a hard time starting the car u would have to turn the key in the ignition real hard but now on cold days it won't...

Sounds like either weak battery or a weak starter not turning it over quick enough. Check thoses areas first and then go to the ignition switch and check

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The humming would be the fuel pump coming on. It should only hum for a few seconds, then shut off.
Your problem is with the start circuit from the battery to the starter, or from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Check the connections at the starter (the big cable) for tightness.
Is the battery charged up enough to turn the engine over? Check by turning headlights on and observe while someone turns key to crank. If they dim a LOT, then either battery is too low, or the starter is bad and needs removing for testing. If brightness doesn't change, then the circuit from ignition switch to starter solenoid is likely not working. Check for 12 volts at the small wire to starter solenoid with key in cranking position. If you have power there, the solenoid may be bad. Remove starter for testing. If no power at solenoid in starting position, then either the ignition switch is bad or the neutral safety switch might be the problem, or the wiring from the switch to the starter solenoid is not passing current.
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My 1998 Grand Voyager has had a problem ever since I left my lights on, and had AAA come jump me off. I believe the problem only happens, when the engine is cold. When I try to start it, at first, it turns...

Sounds like the ignition switched circuits are not always powering up.
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OK, so starting the engine uses a lot of battery power, and the engine needs to be left running a while to recharge the battery.
When it is cold batterys don't hold as much charge (not quite the correct technical term, but I don't want to go into battery mechanics and chemistry here). You either need to pop it on a trickle charger or let it run for at least 15 minutes.

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Hey mate,

I have a Mazda B2200 from 1985, which has the same R2 diesel motor, and I had this same problem, which was exacerbated by the cold of winter....even here in a mild Melbourne.

Each time you turn the ignition on, the QSS (Quick Start System) powers up the glow plugs for about three seconds. This recycles again about three times, then.....nothing. The QSS reckons that you ought to have the bugger running by now!

In my desperation, I located the cable to the four glow plugs, and ran a second wire from the battery (+) via a push-button switch which I installed on the dash. This is my glow-plug BOOST circuit.

Now, when I want to start from c-c-c-cold, I push the button (with the ignition on) for about ten or fifteen seconds, which gives the glow plugs a goodly time to heat up the combustion chamber, and when I hit the starter, she usually fires up with a rattle, and a cloud of grey exhaust smoke.


(Of course, once the motor has warmed up, there is no need to use this BOOST circuit, for the combustion chambers are already hot enough to detonate the injected fuel.)

Have a go at it, as I know that it works!


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