Question about Dodge Durango

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Replace rear wheel cylinder 1500

How do i get the rear wheel cylinder off already took off the brake line and both screws want release

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  • 369 Answers

Use lots of wd40 or liquid wrench. spray, tap, let sit. spray tap, and try it. If it doesnt work right away, let it sit overnight and spray and tap again next day. If that doesnt work you might have to grind the heads off and get new screws.

Posted on Oct 02, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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fixincars
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SOURCE: the brake light on the

There is a level switch in the master cylinder if the fluid level is low it will turn on the light and If you pressure or vacuum bleed the brakes you will center the proporting valve switch that warns of low brake pressure in either Front or rear.
Vacuum bleeding I have found to work the best.
Make sure the Park brake lever is all the way released. If you find this informationn helpful please leave me a favorable rating and by all means contact me if I can be of any further help.
www.aceautomotive1.com

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • 566 Answers

SOURCE: elantra rear brake replacement

hiya the rear disc brakes are as front disc brakes auto adjusting however the rear brake calipers pistons have to be wound back into the caliper to enable new pads to be fitted if you look at piston you will see they have either slots or holes in the surface this is for a sutable implement/tool to fit and then turned clockwise whilst pressing piston as you wind/rotate it back into caliper for your info there is a tool made for this purpose made by draper or seeley tools which makes job easy diy and cost £9--99 uk and can be bought from most auto stores ? however it is possible to manage with the spanner with horse shoe open end commonly supplied with circular hand saws the spanner is the one used for replacing blade? i have used this in past with success but now have the expensive univesal tool for the job hope this helps?

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

SOURCE: 1999 Plymouth Breeze - rear brakes locking up

You have a proportioning valve stuck. From the master the brake lines will run down the wheel well to another valve then out to the front calipers and rears when the prop valve sticks or freezes it then causes the rear or front system to lock up or not proportion the system evenly. 2. If that is not the case you may have contamination in the lines or the rubber brake hoses whick allow fluid to pass through it will not allow it to return almost acting like a back check valve therefore keeping you brakes on.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • 225 Answers

SOURCE: brake bleeding

if you didn't bleed the lines after putting the master in. then there is a good chance there is air in the lines now. may go through a quart of brake fluid before all the air is out. remember to start at r-rear/ l-rear/ r-front/ l-front last.will take some time. don't forget to adjust the rear brake while your there to help with the pedal

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

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2 Answers

Aloha! My 1990 C-1500 454 SS rear brakes locked up and severely overheated. I did a recent 4-wheel overhaul; new wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes and drums. I did not replace the master and bleeding t


is ther a rear brake equaliser on the rear axle? this is usually spring operated that pulls up on the rear brake limiter depending on load in vehicle may be stuck in the vehicle loaded position when the vehicle isnt carrying much weight worth a look , just jack up rear end and look for spring device centre of rear axle attached to a device with the brake lines entering/exiting if there get vehicle as high as safe to do then put blocks under rear wheels then slowly lower jack and look to see if the spring device moves down with the vehicle if not this could be the problem as is exerting pressure to rear brakes so causing them to over heat keep me posted

May 17, 2014 | 1990 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    On right rear of 98 jimmy, when brake pedal applied. fluid is "squirting " out


    check right rear wheel cylinder.the wheel cylinder bleeder screw could be loose or brake line to rear brake hose or brake line broken.the rear wheel cylinder seal is leaking brake fluid.

    Apr 10, 2011 | GMC Jimmy Cars & Trucks

    2 Answers

    I replaced front and back brakes on my 1996 1500 Chev Suburban. Bled the brakes starting at the farthest line. The pedal is soft and travels too far. Does not seem to stop very good. What is the...


    it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.

    Apr 06, 2011 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


    The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

    WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
    1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
      1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
      2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
      3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
      4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
      5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
      6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
    WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
    1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
      1. Right rear
      2. Left front
      3. Left rear
      4. Right front
    2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
      1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
      2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
      3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
      4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
    3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
    zjlimited_349.jpg

    Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

    zjlimited_350.jpg

    Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

    zjlimited_351.jpg

    Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





    Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

    Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

    1 Answer

    2006 chevrolet 1500 brakes shimmy without touching them,also when setting still mash couple times let off ,wheels hard to turn


    check for front brake calipers dragging, if the are replace calipers and front brake hoses, if calipers ok replace master cylinder, This is how to check calipers, jack up front of truck have some one apply brakes and release as soon as they release the brake peddle the wheels should spin freely if not brake the brake line lose at master cylinder if wheels spin free with line loose replace master cylinder, if not replace calipers and hoses.....HOPE THIS HELPS

    Nov 16, 2010 | 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD

    2 Answers

    I have a 1992 Chevy 1500 4x4 the right rear wheel has locked up. I took the brake drum off and it looked like the brake shoes are not releaseing. What would cause that?


    frozen or engaged parking brake cable or possible bad brake hose but that would cause both to lock is the other wheel cylinder leaking? that would releave pressure from the wheel . a fluid leak (axle seal or cylinder) can cause the locking feeling because it slips then catches when the fluid wears off hope this helps

    Apr 06, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet K1500

    1 Answer

    I need a schematic for the rear brakes on an F150 super cab with 4.6L automatic trans 4wheel drive


    Drum, Rear Brake System Standard Rear Brake
    9969082.gif
    Item Part Number Description 1 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin 2 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd) 3 — Washer (2 Req'd) 4 — Anchor Pin (Part of 2211) 5 — Wheel Cylinder 6 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Short) 9 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Long) 10 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Secondary) 11 — Washer 12 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 13 — Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 14 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 15 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 16 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 17 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 18 2048 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket 19 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 20 2041 Brake Adjusting Screw 21 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 22 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Primary) 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2211 Brake Backing Plate
    Heavy Duty Rear Brake
    6dcb5d2.gif
    Item Part Number Description 1 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt 2 00538 Lock Nut 3 2212 Rear Brake Backing Plate 4 2262 Rear Wheel Cylinder 5 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 6 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 9 — Parking Brake Lever Bolt 10 — Secondary Shoe Assembly 11 2A179 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 12 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 13 — Adjusting Lever Pin 14 — Adjusting Lever Return Spring 15 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 16 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 17 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 18 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw 19 — Primary Shoe Assembly 20 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 21 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining 22 2035 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2092 Brake Adjusting Hole Cover 25 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
    The rear drum brakes:
    • Have internal shoes that expand against the brake drum (1126).
    • Are a single-anchor type.
    • Are actuated by one rear wheel cylinder (2262).
    • Have two pistons in the rear wheel cylinder (2261). One exerts force against the upper end of the primary shoe; the other exerts force against the upper end of the secondary shoe.
    • Adjust rear brake shoes and linings (2200) automatically.
    • Need manual brake adjustment if the adjusters are not operating properly or after the rear brake shoes and linings have been replaced.
    When the brake pedal is applied, hydraulic fluid pressure forces the pistons in the rear wheel cylinder outward, moving the rear brake shoes and linings against the brake drum.
    The rear drum brake system includes the parking brake mechanism. Refer to Section 206-05 .

    Apr 04, 2009 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

    1 Answer

    2000 chevy 1500 silverado- rear brakes overheating


    Have someone push & release pedal while at wheel with problem. See if it takes a while or slow to release. If yes, have wrench ready on bleeder screw, and try again, if it sticks/holds, crack bleeder screw, if it releases, I'd replace hose.

    Jan 18, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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