280 zx dies after reaching normal opperating tempature.
83 280zx was running rough. I did a complete tune up. I chang2d distributor, ignitipn module, coil, battery etc. I havent cleaned terminals on ECU, or replaced any EFI relays. I did replace ignition swith with a used one. I guess after all the new parts, I thought it would be ok to use one of the many used obes ive gotten from wrecking yards. I need a solution to my problem.
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Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the fusible link connector for the fuel injection wiring harness. Be sure the ignition is OFF
before doing this. Disconnect the cold start valve wiring harness
connector. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil-to-distributor) at
the distributor and hold it 0.13-0.25 in. (3.3-6.3mm) away from the
cylinder head with a pair of insulated pliers and a heavy glove. When
the engine is cranked, a spark should be observed. If not, check the
lead and replace as necessary. If there is still no spark, go on with
the following system checks.
Make a check of the power supply circuit. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the connector from the top of the IC unit. Turn the ignition ON.
Measure the voltage at each terminal of the connector in turn by
touching the probe of positive lead of the voltmeter to one of the
terminals and touching the probe of the negative lead of the voltmeter
to a ground, such as the engine. In each case, battery voltage should
be indicated. If not, check all of the wiring, the ignition switch and
all connectors for breaks, corrosion, discontinuity etc., then repair
Check the primary windings of the ignition coil. Turn the ignition OFF.
Detach the harness connector from the negative coil terminal. Use an
ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the positive and negative
coil terminals. If resistance is 0.84-1.02 ohms, the coil is OK;
replace it if the reading is far from this range.
If the power supply, circuits, wiring and coil are in good shape, check the IC unit and pick-up coil as follows:
Turn the ignition OFF.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the
pick-up coil, where they attach to the IC unit. Measure the resistance
by reversing the polarity of the probes. If approximately 400 ohms are
indicated, the pick-up coil is OK, but the IC unit is bad and must be
Fig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 modelsFig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, proceed with the following:
Be certain the two pin connector to the IC unit is secure.
Turn the ignition ON.
Measure the voltage at the ignition coil's negative terminal.
Turn the ignition OFF.
WARNINGRemove the tester probe from the coil negative terminal before switching the ignition OFF, to prevent burning out the tester.
If 0 voltage is indicated, the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
If battery voltage is indicated, remove the IC unit from the distributor, by proceeding as follows:
Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the IC unit.
Remove the two screws securing the IC unit to the distributor.
Disconnect the two pick-up coil wires from the IC unit.
WARNINGPull the connectors free with a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT pull on the wires to detach the connectors.
Remove the IC unit.
the resistance between the terminals of the pick-up coil. It should be
approximately 400 ohms. If so, the pick-up coil is OK and the IC unit
is bad. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, the pick-up coil is
bad and must be replaced.
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Does the truck seem fine when you first start it & then acts up when it reaches operating temp?
That would lead me to look at my oxygen sensor, a bad sensor can cause the truck to run "rich" which would explain the fuel smell in the exhaust.
ever tune it up. sparkplugs can fail when cold and rich conditions
are present(normal for cold)
ever seen the 60k service points lists it the glove box operating manual
id bet its due to not doing service.
am i right?
no engine size stated. so no details guessed.
i take it with its age it has points and a condenser check points gap possible condenser change any way as its a cheap part does it have a vacume hose going to the dissy as when it warms up the vacume hose retards or fowards the timing has it got an auto choke this could be causing it to stall or cut out the spring on the inside could have snaped or come of the pin could be crap in the fuel filter or in the carb jets if it has a carb just a few things to have a look at and check hope these help cheers ivan
Hello! I've been there too. I guess you have touched your coil after the engine stops. If the coil is hot, usually the cause is a very high resistance in the high tension circuit. That is between the coil and spark plugs. Probably something makes a false contact or loose conection or the gap at the plugs it too big. If your coil is cold, perhaps your coolant temperature sensor is bad. This sensor tells the ecu or the cold start valve to squirt more fuel. When it fails your engine can't start when cold or it dies when hot depending on the failure type. Another thing which can go wrong if your coil is cold can be the cold start valve. This is an auxiliar injector located at the throttle body. When it fails, it simply doesn't inject fuel or injects all the time! (Only 80's cars have cold start valve)
3 years ago, my car was running really rough. No accelleration, stalling etc. I narrowed it down to the distributor and changed it myself for about 100 bucks. Then last week, the car would start sometimes and sometimes not. When it would not start, I found that it had no spark. So it finally quit altogether. I put the old distributor back in (Yes, I kept it), and it ran. It ran rough like it did 3 years prior, but it ran. I have purchased another distributor for $100, and will put it in, and it will fix the problem. The distributor is an all in one package. Coils, rotor, pickups. It's held on by 2 bolts (12mm socket). Pretty easy to change out, just pay attention to the way the rotor is pointing when you take the old one out, and put the new one in the same. 3 year lifespan due to a sh*tty oil seal on them.
The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.
That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.
If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.
To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.