Question about 2001 Ford Focus

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How to bleed a clutch

No leaks no pedal force . How do I bleed the hydrolic system ?

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  • Ford Master
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Get a friend to help. Press clutch down to floor and hold, have your friend loosen the line at the slave cylinder, or clutch actuator under the car enough that fluid squirts out. Have him tighten the line back up. Release the clutch and press back to the floor again. Have your friend repeat the process as before. (loosen to let fluid squirt out, then tighten back up) Release the pedal. Repeat this process untill there are no air pockets left in the line. NOTE: if your clutch pedal fails to return to the top, simply pop it back up with your hand/foot, wait a few seconds, then depress to floor again for another bleeding.

Posted on Nov 19, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: need step by step on how to bleed hydrolic clutch on a 1996 ford ranger

First remove the clutch reservoir top. Make sure the rubber stopper/bladder is in the cap when removed. Next locate the clutch line that goes into the tranny just aft of the bell housing. There should be a bleed screw, if so open it slightly. If no screw, than loosen the line where it attatches in. Next fill the clutch reservoir and watch till it leaks out on the tranny end. Once thats noticed, close the screw/line and recap reservoir. pump clutch pedal, and repeat bleed steps at least once more to ensure all air is out. remember to fill clutch fluid up to operating levels.

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Clutch Bleeding

The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom...........
Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master
I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

  • 7353 Answers

SOURCE: my clutch pedal sits on the floor, doesnt come up

pull up clutch pedal, all the way up. now fill fluid to top, now open the slave cylinder, it should bleed just with gravity. let it drip for a few minutes or until you have to fill it up 2 times. Make sure that when the pedal is all the way up, that the piston is all the way back on the master cylinder. look up at the back of the master cylinder under the dashl. there is an adjustment. you want just very little play between the pedal rod and the piston, just enough that there is some play. but you need some play there. if there isnt any play, adjust the rod.

Posted on Dec 06, 2010

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Have you tried bleeding the system. It is done in the similar way as bleeding brakes to remove air. If that doesn't fix it, it may well be in need of a new clutch.

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How to bleed clutch


Check the fluid-reservoir for your clutch. If there is low/no fluid, top it up. Pump the pedal a few times first .. and check underneath the car for a fluid leak.

If the fluid reservoir is full, don't bother checking under the car for leaks.

Usually, the clutch master cylinder has a 'nipple' - a bleed point. Get someone to pump the clutch pedal for you a few times and keep it pressed down. Place a rag on the nipple and slightly undo the nut. Any air in the system should be forced out. You may have to open/close the nipple (nut) 2 or 3 times whilst somebody pumps and holds down the clutch pedal.

If there is no nipple/nut on the clutch master cylinder, follow the metal tube back up into the engine compartment and bleed the air out of it by putting a cloth around the topmost point where it connects to something else, and slightly undo the connection. The clutch pedal should be pressed down whilst you do this ..

If there's no air forced out of the hydraulic line or the clutch still does not build pressure, it may well be that the rubber ring inside clutch master cylinder is perished. You either have to fit a new rubber ring or replace the clutch master cylinder.

Replacing the clutch master cylinder is the best option. The bore of the master cylinder can wear - become 'ovalled' over time. Fitting a new rubber ring into a master cylinder that has a worn bore is only a short-term cure.

A perished rubber ring or worn clutch cylinder bore simply allows hydraulic fluid to be 'moved' without becoming pressurised

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The problem is an air problem you must have over looked something .You call the master cylinder what ? This is the one on the pedal checks for leaks on the inside of the vehicle if oil can get out air is getting in Then you say slave cylinder this is at the clutch inside the bell houseing and is the main bleeding point with a fitting to bleed the system . The olny other point is the resiverior unless the system is feed from the break system sometimes it is but not common . The springs are mechincal but the system is hydrolic so look for oil leaking and thats ware air is getting in dubble check it

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I don't know if you have hydraulic clutch cylinder but sounds like it may be bypassing or have air in system. Try bleeding system and checking for pressure when pedal is pushed

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is it a hydrolic clutch?? if so, near the clutch housing will be what looks like a bleed nipple, simlar to those on the brake system. basically check the fluid level is topped up, then with help, undoe the bleed nipple while someone pumps the clutch a few times, making sure they hold the pedal down before you tighten the nipple. repeat this until full operation of the clutch .

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Need step by step on how to bleed hydrolic clutch on a 1996 ford ranger


First remove the clutch reservoir top. Make sure the rubber stopper/bladder is in the cap when removed. Next locate the clutch line that goes into the tranny just aft of the bell housing. There should be a bleed screw, if so open it slightly. If no screw, than loosen the line where it attatches in. Next fill the clutch reservoir and watch till it leaks out on the tranny end. Once thats noticed, close the screw/line and recap reservoir. pump clutch pedal, and repeat bleed steps at least once more to ensure all air is out. remember to fill clutch fluid up to operating levels.

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