Question about 1993 Chevrolet Suburban

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1993 Chevy Suburban will not start and has no spark

I changed the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, the distributor with module, IAC valve and spark plugs and the vehicle ran until I bleed my brakes.

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 5,252 Answers

Check all fuses under the hood. Test the coil with an ohmmeter. Check for battery voltage on the coil primary with key on.
If all good, suspect the crank position sensor. A bad sensor will cause no spark.

Posted on Nov 19, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: running rough, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor

First thing you need to know is which cylinders are missing. Then, don't forget there is an engine beneath the electronics. Do a quick test with a vacuum gauge and do a compression test. Check the distributor shaft for side play. If everything checks out good, then do electronic component testing. have a code check run (many parts stores do this free) and get a chiltons or haynes manual and follow test procedures in there.
I refrain from giving repair suggestions with problems like yours because people keep changing instead of testing parts. When I work on my vehicles or other peoples cars, I do testing to avoid buying expensive parts that most times won't correct the problem. At this point the most I'd suggest is to clean the mass air flow sensor wires with a Q-tip and carb cleaner...that often helps and is free. If you run into a problem with whatever you find, ask and I'll try to help.
good luck

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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peterrance19
  • 399 Answers

SOURCE: Just changed distributor cap and rotor, plugs and

check the gaps on plugs also distributor also condensor in distributor

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: I have a '96 Chevy

Fuel pressure regulator would be my guess.

Posted on Jan 07, 2011

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1993 chevy suburbun 5.7 liter, edelbrock high output fuel injection has fuel and spark still wont start have changed distributor, coil,cap and rotor, plugs and wires are fairly new, timing is dead on,...


When you changed the distributor did it go in the right way sometimes people put it in 180 degrees around as it will drop right in then also take a look at the rotors position when you are at the proper firing position for 1 and check it otherwise it seems like a walk down as in going backwards on all your steps to see if its right

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archaeology_96.jpg

Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
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(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
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(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
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(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

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