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1970 yamaha Ct1B 175 enduro with engine running, you turn the ignition switch to lights & the bike starts missing & dies! Could it have a bad lighting coil?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: engine died & wont start no spark ignition coil tested good

try your ignition module in the distributor much more likely. just install rebuilt distributor if that is the problem , if you just replace module the main distributor assem will **** out shortly after.
Make sure you check for broken timing belt also it is one of those two!

Posted on May 27, 2009

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SOURCE: 1970 Chevy 350 in C30 truck dies when warm

You need to find oput what you loose when the truck shuts off, all you need is Air, Fuel , and spark to run one of the three are droppuig out when it stalls and will not run. Chech the carb for gas it sounds like you have a weak fuel pump.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

Testimonial: "Great idea...I assumed that because the line was full of fuel when i checked the bronze filter element. Fast response, thanks!"

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SOURCE: battery light stays on when engine starts up

Have the alternator checked, sounds like it isn't charging the battery. Be a good idea to have the battery checked also.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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SOURCE: my 93 caravan 3.3 runs eratic and miss fires at

used coil replaced? with or new??fireing order sounds incorect good place to start

Posted on Dec 23, 2009

creg_912
  • 196 Answers

SOURCE: I've replaced ignition coil. Engine run very

Normally the coils last a very long time...I have seen coils well over 175k miles and still work very well.I would check and make sure their is no broken wire connections going to the coils and also the make absolutely sure their is no pooling residue inside the coil terminals leading to the plugs.Oil build up from pooling can cause the coils to file out or fail over time.I always recommend also that the original plugs be used also when changed because of the severe heat level thats required by the plug to perform.If you see plugs that have brown porcelin usually that means they are overheating..I hope this helps...

Posted on Aug 10, 2011

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Kick it over a few times and pull the spark plug. If the plug is wet, you have fuel and an ignition problem. If the plug is dry, you have s fuel problem. Report back with a Comment to THIS post.

I used to ride a KTM 400 Enduro bike :-)

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The engine just dies when going down the road and when I try to re-start, the motor won't turn over. Why is this happening?


You didn't tell us is you have the 4 banger, 3.0 or 4.0 V6 engine.

The engine can stall for a number of reasons. For a engine to run it requires air, fuel, compression, and spark at the proper time. I doubt air is the problem. The fuel pump may be cutting out (bad pump, bad relay, bad pump wiring inside the tank (my 93 3.0 Ranger had the last issue). The engine stall could be a lack of fire to the plugs. A bad (cracked) coil, ignition module problem, EFI computer or wiring problem, or maybe an ignition switch problem. The starting system is somewhat isolated and pretty much separate from the ignition system in general. This makes me suspicious of your ignition switch.

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When ignition switch is turned to start I get a small click but starter does not engage


Hi,

If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter.
Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system.


If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps.


A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.


Hope this helps,Good luck!!

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The wire from your solenoid valve goes directly to your ignition switch there is no fuse in line. The ignition switch contacts or the plug just behind the switch probably has a bad contact. The switch is easily replaceable, just one screw that holds it in place. They did have a tendency to wear out. Don't forget to check the plug behind the switch, and make sure that there is no immoblizer fitted that can give you the problem.

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