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Hydraulic system mulfunction

Bucket is slow, one final drive ceased after changing seal and bearing, boom up but will not come down

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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You may have to get specialist hydraulics for this. ON most boom and cylinder systems there is a flow control valve on the bottom side of the cylinder to stop uncontrolled fall in the event of hose failure. If the flow rate is too high the valve closes off and locks the ram in the position that the hose failed in. To unlock it you have to extend the ram in question and lower it slowly. Bent rams will also cause the fault as there is normally no downward hydraulic action as the ram moving back in relies on weight so any bent /jamming bush will not result in a ram return or slow ram return

Posted on Nov 19, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Leak from Drive shaft output seal

Does it leak from off the driveshaft?
If yes , thn check the diameter of the driveshaft where the seal lip touches.

Posted on May 22, 2009

wesleygolden
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: ABS MULFUNCTION

I agree with RazFL but there is an adjustment procedure when replacement of this switch. It could still produce the same results with-out doing it. Gap between the switch is 1.5mm closed or between the switch and the switch reasting/support bracket with pedal not depressed. FYI

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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New holland LX885 WON'T START AFTER I HAD IT RUNNING AFTER SERVICR AND BOOM SHAKES GOING UP. BEFORE SERVICE BOOM WORKED FINE. CHANGED FLUID PER MANUAL


Boom shake is most likely just air in the system. Run it and use the boom till it stops shaking. This happens sometimes after a service on the hydraulics and filter change. As for it not starting after a bit, check that the cold start sensor is working properly. If it will start with a small spurt of ether, then it's not getting the fuel to start up. The cold start system will care for that, and the temperature sensor must work to do so.

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ive heard of folks doing it without a crane but i would not try it , alignment is too critical with getting guides and stops back in and with nothing to move boom that would be too difficult

anyways: suspend boom end with double straps from crane , disconnect hydraulic/electric swivels/plugs at truck end lift end of boom slightly with boom all the way extended straight out , remove acess panel (both sides) at jct of upper/lower boom section . remove C clip one side drive out pin oppisite side (wiggle boom to clear pin) locate stops in lower section boom end unbolt , slowly pull upper boom with crane away take care of hydraulic lines and electric wires set on floor on wood cribbing , locate bottom of cylinder truck end find C clip and pin Might be behind a trim cover that might need to be remove drive out pin also remove bottom cylinder hyd hose connect crane to cylinder end move out a foot or so remove top cyliinder hydraulic hose then carefully slide out cylinider with crane , Note if your valves are not tight and new oil will leak back and cause boom base to sag when you unhook hydraulic hoses , your gonna need to block this up with wood cribbing just in case

reverse removal process to install new one , also i would not just install a new seal (you can) with out having cylinder recromed I'll bet it's rusty thats what tears the seals up
and allways replace entire oil volume in hydraulics your old seal is in old oil not good for the new one

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It is now possible that the idler bearings for the belt are failing
If the pulleys , crank and cam seals and hydraulic adjuster were all not replaced with the belt then they job will have to be done soon

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The plow will work fine for a hour. After that the plow gets real slow. Note older stlye hydraulic under the hood cables. I changed the fluid a couple of times. Everything is tight.


It may be the seals swelling as the fluid heats up from use. Are you using trans. fluid or the 'blue stuff' designed for hydraulic systems? I had a similar problem with my 1st plow truck, I found that spraying the seals at the shafts of the up/down piston and angle pistons seemed to help, although only for a while, requiring spraying every few driveways. Some fluids (trans.) can cause the seals to swell, although I can't recall what type. Unfortunately, to really fix this you probably need to drain the system again, and replace all the seals, and refill with the 'blue' fluid.

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