Question about Cars & Trucks
I have a 1996 Oldsmobile Ciera Cutlass (not the wagon). Not sure if it's needed, but I'm not sure if I have a 4 or 6 cylinder. My brake light had been on a while and then I lost brake power. I discovered one leak by the driver's side door where the tubing seems to have run ragged. It's maybe a 1 1/2 inch long of damage. I was hoping to replace that section. Could I have direction on that, please? I have an AutoZone in my area that I was planning on obtaining parts from. I was looking into Part Number 77338, Brakeware/Brake Hose - Front (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Brakeware-Brake-Hose-Front/1996-Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Ciera/_/N-j4y8mZ8knp9?itemIdentifier=712703_166223_2362_). Any guidance on what to get and where, as well as how to do the repair myself, would be appreciated.
Yes, buy the brake hose, and also 2 copper washers, to replace the old hose. Where the hose mounts onto the brake caliper is where the copper washers go. It is recommended to replace those two washers. Most parts stores should have then in stock, they just need the car information-year, make and model.
You will need to take off the driver's wheel, so jack up the front to remove wheel, then block it up with jack stands or blocks-don't trust the jack to hold it up.
To replace the hose, you will need to remove the hose to caliper bolt. Then there is a bracket holding the hose to the strut mount-probably a 10 mm bolt-remove that also. Now you have to remove the hose fitting from the steel brake tubing-it's the other end of brake hose- up high in the wheel well and kind of behind the shock/strut. There will also be a clip to remove there, which holds the upper end of the hose rigid with the steel line. Pull off the clip and unscrew the fitting from hose to steel line. Be careful not to bend or kink the steel line. Hold a back-up wrench on the hex of the hose while unscrewing the fitting. Put new hose in and get the steel line fitting to hose started on, then put the clip back on and tighten the fitting. Then fit the bottom end of hose to the caliper-don't forget the copper washers. Finally the hose bracket to the strut. If you've never done this, have someone check your work.
When you get the hose on, now you have to bleed the brakes to get all air out of the lines. If the brake fluid reservoir got very low, where air could get into all brake lines, you will have to bleed all four brakes, starting at the rear. If the reservoir has still plenty of fluid, then you will only need to bleed the front driver's side. You will need a helper to bleed the brakes-someone who knows how. Good luck.
Posted on Nov 18, 2013
If you need to replace a brake line, you're going to have to bleed the line of air once you remove the broken one. I would highly suggest having an Autozone Tech. explain how to get that accomplished (they have always been very helpful to me).
Posted on Nov 18, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
Remove the belt from any pulley. Go from pulley to pulley and make sure they are all free wheeling obviously you won't be able to turn the crank pulley. Spin your alternator pulley and listen to it. It should be silent and smoothe. If you hear any bearing noise from the tensioner, the alternator, the AC comppresor, I would do this soon, you've spent on belts what an alternator would cost.Also check the idler pulley if this is a serpentine type belt.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
The injectors can be replaced one at a time. They come out of the connector assembly. What problem do you you have because these hardly ever go bad.
Posted on Mar 03, 2011
SOURCE: my front brake line drivers
Tubing with two nuts on it. 3/16" in diameter. You wont get one 4" long. 12" may be the shortest. Just bend it around to fit, Don't cut it. Yours will be the flare type. It would be best to take the old one with you to match the ends. Because one nut may be 1/8" and the other 1/4". They also have metric and standard threads.
Posted on Jul 03, 2011
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Posted on Nov 07, 2011
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