Question about 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Is it possible to reduce engine wear by adusting the Carter YFA feedback carboratoer to reduce idle speed and what are the effect as far as tourque efficiancy on take off?

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Reducing wear no but if you lean it out could burn it up or to ritch mess the exhaust up

Posted on Nov 22, 2013

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SOURCE: new rebilt carter yfa installed, but idle at 3k

The 2.5 L engine is the Pontiac Iron Duke sourced from GM since it was still AMC. They came with Rochester carbs, while Ford used Holley 2 brls on their 4 cyl engines and Chrysler used Carter carbs. You might have the wrong carb and the throttle plates are sticking on the intake manifold. You can try using a carb adapter/spacer. If you drive off road I would suggest buying a TBI throttle body injection system from a junkyard, and pick up a electirc fuel pump. Either new from a speed shop or used from a newer Jeep with a 2.5 L TBI engine, you'll need the computer, harness, relay, sending unit and lines as well. But you can pick up everything at a pick your part yard for cheap (some yards have all you can carry in your hands for $50 days).

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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Point gap setting for 64 fairland 221 engine


Point gap is .025" [dwell 37 to 42 degrees]

Feb 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

Tip

How to save fuel and make your vehicle last longer, too


Improving fuel economy is easy - just take it easy. It willmake your vehicle last longer, too. Here are some specific tips on how to savemoney on both fuel and repairs.
  • Keep your tires inflated at the correct pressure. Under-inflation causes tire wear and wastes fuel.
  • Do not carry unneeded weight in your vehicle. Excess weight puts a heavier load on the engine, causing greater fuel consumption.
  • Avoid lengthy warm-up idling. Once the engine is running smoothly, begin driving - but gently. Remember, however, that on cold winder days this may take a little longer.
  • Keep automatic transmission selector lever into "D" when engine breaking is not required. Driver with the selector lever in "4" will reduce the fuel economy. (This is referring to vehicles with Automatic drive)
  • Accelerate slowly and smoothly. Avoid jackrabbit starts. Get into the high gear as quickly as possible.
  • Avoid long engine idling. If your have a long wait and you are not in traffic, it is better to turn off the engine and start again later.
  • Avoid engine lugging or over-reversing. Use a gear position suitable for the road on which you are traveling.
  • Avoid continuous speeding up and slowing down. Stop-and-go driving wastes fuel.
  • Avoid unnecessary stopping and braking. Maintain a steady pace. Try to time the traffic signals so you only need to stop as little as possible or take advantage of through streets to avoid traffic lights. Keep a proper distance from other vehicle to avoid sudden breaking. This will also reduce wear on your breaks.
  • Avoid heaving traffic or traffic jams whenever possible.
  • Do not rest your foot on the clutch or break pedal. This causes premature wear, overheating and poor fuel economy.
  • Maintain a moderate speed on high ways. The faster you drive, the greater the fuel consumption. By reducing your speed, you will cut down on fuel consumption.
  • Keep the front wheels in proper alignment. Avoid hitting the curb and slow on rough roads. Improper alignment not only causes faster tire wear, but also puts an extra load on the engine, which, in turn, wastes fuel.
  • Keep the bottom of your vehicle free from mud, etc. This not only lessens weight but also helps prevent corrosion.
  • Keep your vehicle tuned-up and in top shape. A dirty air cleaner, carburetor out of adjustment, improper valve clearance, dirty plugs, dirty oil and grease, breaks not adjusted, etc. all lower engine performance and contribute to poor fuel economy. For longer life of all parts and lower operating costs, keep all maintenance work on schedule, and if you often drive under severe conditions, see that your vehicle receives more frequent maintenance.
Good luck.

on Nov 09, 2010 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Bad vibration when in gear but idle speed


I'm not sure exactly which vehicle you have so I'll try to be genera yet as specific as possible to help you determine the problem. I'm assuming here its a Gas Fuel engine.

1.) if its a carburetor type engine, You may need to adjust the RPM to increase or lower the Idle. Its commonly called the Ideal screw and adjust the air fuel ratio to stabilize the engine fuel mixture to increase the RPM.. its found on the Carburetor.

2.) ts fuel injected you will need to adjust the throttle body position to archive the same effect.

if it has a distributor , you can turn the distributor as well to adjust the RPM.


rough idling is usually caused by Mounts, since you changed yours the next most likely issue is the RPM itself or idling speed / rpm. If its to low you ill have that issue.

other possible cause is the distributor points (if any).. bad plugs, bad plug wires.. but those cause other issues while driving as well.

Dec 28, 2012 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My car, an xjs 4lt, 1996 cele', it has a aj16 engine, the idle speed is too fast & will not reduce, i've checked the butterfly & that seems ok, i don't know whether or not the step...


Too fast an idle speed. If an engine without computerized idle speed control is idling too fast and refuses to come down to a normal idle speed despite your best efforts to back off the carburetor idle speed screw or air bypass adjustment screw (fuel injection), air is getting past the throttle somewhere. Common leak paths include the carburetor and throttle body gaskets, carburetor insulator spacers, intake manifold gaskets, and of course, any of the engine's vacuum fittings, hoses and accessories. It is even possible that leaky O-rings around the fuel injectors are allowing air to leak past the seals. Another overlooked item can be a worn throttle shaft and a defective idle speed speed control motor/valve stuck in the extended (high idle speed) position/throttle position sensor. Also the throttle plate could be binding in its bore and kinked accelerator cable, coolant temperature sensor might not be operating properly misleading the computer that the engine is still cold and computer throwing fuel at it raising the idle speed.----------

Getting this possibilities checked will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Aug 31, 2011 | Jaguar XJS Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I just rebuilt my F-150 1 barrel Carter carb (1985)once started runs great under all power ranges.Problem? Hard to start.


should adjust the butterfly to about 3/8" opening at 50 degrees farenheit when engine is cold. Usually about 1 mark to the lean side on the choke spring housing. If unsure set the choke to the center mark than richen up one mark at a time until the engine starts and idles up when cold after properly setting choke by fully depressing and releasing the accelerator before cranking. If it doesn't idle up enough turn up the fast idle screw 1/2 turn at a time. Another common problem with the YFA is the choke heat riser tube rusting off at the manifold and the choke not unloading when the engine warms. Install a new riser tube after using a drill bit the same diameter as the tube to drill out the remainder of the old tube in manifold before inserting the new tube and attaching to choke housing.

Aug 04, 2010 | 1985 Ford F150

1 Answer

Need adjustments for 88 model carter 2 barrel carburator. fits 4.2 jeep


To set carb adjustment, first set timing correctly, then put both a vacuum gauge and tach on the engine. adjust one idle screw to highest vacuum reading and highest tach reading, then do the other one. go back to the first and re-adjust again, then the other. I find that if you have a mechanical screw or a solenoid that holds idle speed on the linkage, turn them back so that engine is idling at the lowest possible rpm without stalling before making adjustments, then when finished, bring idle rpm up to recommended rpm using those. On an older carb, usually the idle screw covers have already been removed. If not, you need to remove them before you begin, usually best done with carb on a bench.

Oct 06, 2009 | 1988 Jeep Wrangler

4 Answers

Will not hold idle, runs fine at speed


check your Idle air valve thats what keeps your car with the right air mixture or check you idle screw for proper rpms usually they are under 1000 rpm 950 around there but i suspect it might be you air valve sensor the idle screw usually dont get outof adustment because if set from factory but is something you can look at

Aug 02, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck

1 Answer

New rebilt carter yfa installed, but idle at 3k all adjustment screws backed out, ? the 2.5 L 4 cylinder came from P O with a jury rigged rochester carb of 77 ford vintage, hard to start so I got the...


The 2.5 L engine is the Pontiac Iron Duke sourced from GM since it was still AMC. They came with Rochester carbs, while Ford used Holley 2 brls on their 4 cyl engines and Chrysler used Carter carbs. You might have the wrong carb and the throttle plates are sticking on the intake manifold. You can try using a carb adapter/spacer. If you drive off road I would suggest buying a TBI throttle body injection system from a junkyard, and pick up a electirc fuel pump. Either new from a speed shop or used from a newer Jeep with a 2.5 L TBI engine, you'll need the computer, harness, relay, sending unit and lines as well. But you can pick up everything at a pick your part yard for cheap (some yards have all you can carry in your hands for $50 days).

Jul 27, 2009 | 1985 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

Jeep cj won't idle


Assuming that the jeep has not been modified it is likely the Carter BBD Carburetor on that engine, or the sensor inputs to the carburetor.

The Carter BBD has an idling circuit that is always seeking. There is a stepper motor that keeps changing the rpm, and fuel mixture. It basically never stabilizes, and it keeps adjusting based on the feedback loop from half a dozen or so sensors.

So, if a sensor goes bad and feeds a constant signal to the carb, you get problems.

The Carter BBD is a very difficult carb to rebuild and is usually fairly dear in terms of cost.

If you can find a Jeep factory repair manual (on ebay) on the 85 cj -- it is an olive green manual about 3 inches thick and is usually not too expensive, it has troubleshooting procedures for the BBD. Don't get a Haines or aftermarket manual. get the olive drab official factory manual

Remember it is probably the carb that is bad, but there may be more to it than just that.. I don't remember all the inputs to the stepper motor circuit, but I do know that EGR valve is one of them.

good luck

May 16, 2009 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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