Question about 1990 Ford F150

2 Answers

Timing is off on my 1990 ford f150 v8 302

Need to know how to get the timing on my truck right, had to remove the distributor to get to the ignition module, tries to start but cant.

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  • Contributor
  • 16 Answers

If you removed the whole distributor without marking everything first you messed the ignition timing, if you did so, do this. You are going to need a timing light. Get the # 1 piston to TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke, you can use the marks on your crank pulley and the engine block if you can see them, line the timing mark with the "0" mark and make sure your # 1 piston is on the compression stroke (should be all the way up on the cylinder). Put your distributor in making sure the rotor it's going to point as close as possible at the # 1 spark plug wire connector on the distributor cap when you install it. Tighten your distributor hold down bolt just enough so you can turn the distributor cap by hand later. Install your cap, connect your spark plug wires to the cap, make sure they are on the right spot. Set the timing light to 0 degrees if you have that option, hook the timing light to the # 1 spark plug wire, and to the battery accordingly. Start the truck and aim the light to the marks on your pulley, turn the cap slowly one way or the other till you see the timing mark aligned with the "0". Once you get it, kill the engine and tighten your hold down bolt being careful to not move the distributor. Recheck with the light to make sure you didn't move it while tightening the bolt.

Posted on Nov 18, 2013

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  • Ford Master
  • 5,537 Answers

There are a few ways and if I remember correctly, if you have a Module on the distributor you also have a wire sprout which must be disconnected to get base timing.

That being said, those modules still had a timing mark on the crankshaft damper and a timing mark pointer. You want to have the crankshaft visibly marked and the pointer at the DEGREES recommended for the motor. You will see TDC on most dampers and then advance it maybe 6 degrees as marked.

Assuming you are close to begin with, AFTER lining up the parts as recommended, mark the distributor #1 plug position on the cap to distributor housing so that the #1 plug terminal is known when the cap is temporarily removed, wires intact.

Then see where the rotor is pointed and remove the distributor and clock the rotor to align with the mark you put on the distributor housing. If you have a gear drive, the gear will need to be moved slightly for the rotor to twist into place when the distributor is seated. With a timing light, check where the spark is occurring for #1.

You may be close enough for the engine to start.

Other ways involve removing a plug(#1) and turning the engine until compression pushes your finger away from the cylinder hole. Line the timing marks up per specs, do the same process for the distributor rotor and try it again.

If this still does not produce the results you want, make sure the plug wires were not switched. Finally removing the valve cover to observe when intake and exhaust are both closed will help, but it is a lot off unnecessary work to be avoided.

Posted on Nov 18, 2013

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jaysonemanme
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SOURCE: truck tries startingI have a 1990 Ford F150...won't start. I have fire to the top of the distributor and to the button on the bottom side of the dist, cap but when i put it all back together I get no

i doubt it's in the column... check the wires on your starter again, if they rattled loose and are touching they will crank the starter

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: F150 ford truck 1990 key wont turn over engine new ign. switch

we have 1998 ford f15 we replaced the ignition and it still wont start the truck,, the key turns over now and the radio and everything comes on but it wont start, what is wrong???

Posted on May 09, 2010

  • 4102 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1990 Ford

Hi,
first of all could i just ask that when you start it say first thing in the morning does it run perfect and drive perfect until the engine warms up, let me know as it narrows things down a bit for me.

if it dont run better from cold then if you know how to take the air filter out could you take it out and put the air box back together then start it up and see if that makes any difference, then let me know if it changes the problem at all let me know if it makes it worse or any better or if it stays the same.

the main problem is without doing a diagnostic check you could end up throwing hundreds of pound or dollars down the car spares shop and still not solve the problem as the fault could be 1 of a number of possible causes or couple of things at fault.

if it runs perfect from cold then plays up when engine is warm then it could be things such as the oxygen sensor(lambda sensor for its proper name) but their is more than one so without the test you would not know what to change, it could also be the cat converter if you have one fitted.

if how ever the problem is their all the time even from cold start then the problem could be things such as mass air flow sensor ( this is why i said try taking the filter our as this increases the air flow) it could also be dodgy fuel, blocked injectors, faulty vac pipe or even worse case a faulty ecu.

let me know what happens with what i told you to try then it may narrow the problem down a bit.

also try leaving the fuel filler cap off because if the breather from the tank is blocked then this would cause a vacuum in the tank and it would restrict the fuel flow.
try all the things seperate then let me know then ill do my best to assist you further ok

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

cansmo
  • 2431 Answers

SOURCE: how to line distributor shaft when replacing ignition control module on a 1991 ford f150 v8 truck

Set the engine to the number one compression,and bring the timing mark to zero on the harmonic balancer.(or just bring the timing on the harmonic to zero). mark to match the plug wires to cap,remove the cap.(if you can remove the cap without removing plug wire) mark the rotor position to the engine using a scribe, mark the rotor to the distributor, mark the distributor to the engine using a scribe,Take the lock down bolt out and pull out distributor. when you reinstall line up all your marking and check timing.

Posted on Mar 08, 2012

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You need to replace the TFI module (on outside of distributor) and the distributor pickup coil inside the distributor.

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How to line distributor shaft when replacing ignition control module on a 1991 ford f150 v8 truck


Set the engine to the number one compression,and bring the timing mark to zero on the harmonic balancer.(or just bring the timing on the harmonic to zero). mark to match the plug wires to cap,remove the cap.(if you can remove the cap without removing plug wire) mark the rotor position to the engine using a scribe, mark the rotor to the distributor, mark the distributor to the engine using a scribe,Take the lock down bolt out and pull out distributor. when you reinstall line up all your marking and check timing.

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How do I repalce ignition module on 1991 F150 inline 6 cylinder 2 wheel drive


  1. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor, and set it aside (spark plug wires still connected).
  2. Disconnect the harness connector.
  3. Remove the distributor.
  4. Remove the TFI module retaining screws.
  5. To disengage the TFI module's terminals from the distributor base connector, pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and then back up. Carefully pull the module toward the flange and away from the distributor.
  6. Coat the TFI module baseplate with a thin layer of silicone grease (FD7AZ-19A331-A or its equivalent).
  7. Place the TFI module on the distributor base mounting flange. Position the module assembly toward the distributor bowl and carefully engage the distributor connector pins. Install and torque the two TFI module retaining screws to 9-16 inch lbs.
  8. Install the distributor assembly.
  9. Install the distributor cap and check the engine timing.

May 16, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

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How to replace an ignition rotor to a 1988 Ford Escort


Your vehicle may be equipped with either of the following ignition systems, depending on the year and engine combination:
* 1981-82 1.3L and 1.6L engines: Dura Spark II Ignition System
* 1982-85 1.6L Non-EFI and 1986 1.9L Non-EFI engines: Thick Film Ignition I (TFI-I) System
* 1983-90 1.6L EFI and 1.9L EFI engines: Thick Film Ignition IV (TFI-IV) System

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the distributor from the engine.
  3. Place the distributor assembly on a workbench.
  4. Remove the two TFI ignition module retaining screws.
  5. Pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and then back up to disengage the module terminals from the connector in the distributor base. The module may then be pulled toward the flange and away from the distributor.
Do not attempt to lift the module from the mounting surface, except as explained in Step 3, as the pins will break at the distributor module connector.


To install:
  1. Coat the baseplate of the TFI ignition module uniformly with a 1 / 32 in. (0.8mm) of silicone dielectric compound WA-10 or equivalent.
  2. Position the module on the distributor base mounting flange. Carefully position the module toward the distributor bowl and engage the three connector pins securely.
  3. Install the retaining screws. Tighten to 15-35 inch lbs. (1.7-4.0 Nm), starting with the upper right screw.
  4. Install the distributor into the engine. Install the cap and wires.
  5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  6. Recheck the initial timing. Adjust the timing, if necessary.

Hope helps.

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My 2003 gmc v6 just had its plugs and wires and distributor cap and button changed and i put the distributor button on wrong, it ran fine 4 a mon. or 2 and one of the screws came out of the button and...


The distributor cap and/or the ignition rotor most likely have a crack somewhere and the distributor cap should be replaced along with the ignition rotor. The ignition module could have been damaged as well as the ignition pick-up coil/stator and if replacing the distributor cap and ignition rotor does not solve the problem then the ignition module or the pick-up coil/stator assembly inside of the distributor is also most likely damaged and the distributor will need to be replaced. There is a certain procedure for removing and replacing the distributor, and the ignition timing is not adjustable and it is not set using a timing light or with the engine running, and if you do have to replace the distributor Let me know if you require the procedure to properly remove and replace the distributor or if you require any further assistance.

Aug 17, 2010 | 2003 GMC Sierra 1500

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1999 silverado 4.3 cranks but no start can hear fuel pump, swaped out coil and crank sensor w/ known good parts no change, engine did start once after coil was changed ran rough and stalled and wont...


First check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

To replace the distributor follow this procedure;

The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these procedures.

There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. This "static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.

Removal;

1. With the engine at top dead center.

2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing indicating the number one position.

3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, Then make a reference mark of the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and the more precise you mark the position, the easier the installation of the new distributor will be. This will be reference mark #1.

4. Remove the distributor lock down bolt, (the lock down clamp will most likely be attached to the distributor and if so it should not be removed from the distributor) then slowly lift up on the distributor about three inches and note the direction that the ignition rotor turns, and when the ignition rotor stops turning then mark the position that the ignition rotor is pointing to (out on the engine or firewall) and then lift the distributor striaght up and out, and remove the gasket or any left over gasket material from the intake manifold. The more precise you mark the position the easier it will be to install the new distributor and an assistant might be helpful. This will be reference mark #2

Once the distributor has been removed it is important that the engine does not get cranked over by the starter or the crankshaft turned at all, or the reference marks will become useless.

Installation;

Be sure that the new distributor is complete with a new module and that there is a new gasket in place on the distributor.

1. Lower the distributor with gasket down into the distrbutor well and align the ignition rotor with the #2 reference mark and when the distributor gear engages the drive gear on the camshaft then the ignition rotor should turn to the #1 reference mark as the distributor sets all the way back down flush on the intake manifold.

2. Install and tighten the lock down bolt, and If the distributor is properly installed then the ignition rotor should be pointing to the #1 reference mark and the #1 position on the distributor housing with the engine on top dead center.

Replace the distributor cap and connect the spark plug wires, and see if the engine will start, if the engine does start and the check engine light does not come on (assuming that it was not on before) then the distributor is properly installed and there is no further timing requirements.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.



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Jul 31, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

If you start the engine and it sounds like its having trouble staying started with plenty of gas and no engine lights on, what could be the source of the problem? I try putting the car out of park and the...


That sounds like a problem with the ignition coil, or the ignition module located on the side of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module (requires a special tool available from most auto part stores) and most auto part stores will test the ignition module for free.

Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector for the ignition module inside of the distributor from the pick-up coil/stator and the connector should be white as shown in the image here and notice how white the connector looks, when it looks dark or burnt looking then either replace the pick-up coil coil/stator at the same time as the ignition module, or replace the entire distributor. (If you replace the distributor first note how the distributor housing is positioned, and do not forget to mark where the ignition rotor is pointing before, and after you pull the distributor up, that way the distributor will drop right back into place, and re-position the distributor housing as close you can get it to the way the original one was positioned that way the engine should start right up and then just follow the set timing procedures for the vehicle and the timing specifications should be listed out on the emission label under the hood, and be sure not move, crank, or rotate the crankshaft until the distributor is installed back into the engine)

If you are replacing the ignition module only, be sure that if that ignition module is supposed to have a silicone grease or a die-electric compound that it does come with the ignition module, because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it. Also be sure to completely coat the entire metal contact surface of the ignition module with a thick coat of the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface un-coated, and be careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it can be damaged. Some ignition modules have a gel film on the contact surface and do not require any silicone grease or die-electric compound.

Ignition pick-up coil/stator, notice now white the connector for the ignition module is, check your connector and if it is dark or burnt looking then replace also replace the pick-up coil/stator with the ignition module, or replace the entire distributor.
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Image of ignition module.

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Jun 18, 2010 | 1987 Ford Tempo

1 Answer

My 1990 f150 5liter turns over, battery new, stalled one day and now will not start, has no spark from coil.


I have the same truck and it did the same thing...replace the ignition module on the side of the distributor. Good luck! (make sure you mark the distributor position just in case you have to remove it. I had to on mine).

Apr 10, 2010 | 1990 Ford F150

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