Question about 1990 Ford F150
Need to know how to get the timing on my truck right, had to remove the distributor to get to the ignition module, tries to start but cant.
If you removed the whole distributor without marking everything first you messed the ignition timing, if you did so, do this. You are going to need a timing light. Get the # 1 piston to TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke, you can use the marks on your crank pulley and the engine block if you can see them, line the timing mark with the "0" mark and make sure your # 1 piston is on the compression stroke (should be all the way up on the cylinder). Put your distributor in making sure the rotor it's going to point as close as possible at the # 1 spark plug wire connector on the distributor cap when you install it. Tighten your distributor hold down bolt just enough so you can turn the distributor cap by hand later. Install your cap, connect your spark plug wires to the cap, make sure they are on the right spot. Set the timing light to 0 degrees if you have that option, hook the timing light to the # 1 spark plug wire, and to the battery accordingly. Start the truck and aim the light to the marks on your pulley, turn the cap slowly one way or the other till you see the timing mark aligned with the "0". Once you get it, kill the engine and tighten your hold down bolt being careful to not move the distributor. Recheck with the light to make sure you didn't move it while tightening the bolt.
Posted on Nov 18, 2013
There are a few ways and if I remember correctly, if you have a Module on the distributor you also have a wire sprout which must be disconnected to get base timing.
That being said, those modules still had a timing mark on the crankshaft damper and a timing mark pointer. You want to have the crankshaft visibly marked and the pointer at the DEGREES recommended for the motor. You will see TDC on most dampers and then advance it maybe 6 degrees as marked.
Assuming you are close to begin with, AFTER lining up the parts as recommended, mark the distributor #1 plug position on the cap to distributor housing so that the #1 plug terminal is known when the cap is temporarily removed, wires intact.
Then see where the rotor is pointed and remove the distributor and clock the rotor to align with the mark you put on the distributor housing. If you have a gear drive, the gear will need to be moved slightly for the rotor to twist into place when the distributor is seated. With a timing light, check where the spark is occurring for #1.
You may be close enough for the engine to start.
Other ways involve removing a plug(#1) and turning the engine until compression pushes your finger away from the cylinder hole. Line the timing marks up per specs, do the same process for the distributor rotor and try it again.
If this still does not produce the results you want, make sure the plug wires were not switched. Finally removing the valve cover to observe when intake and exhaust are both closed will help, but it is a lot off unnecessary work to be avoided.
Posted on Nov 18, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: truck tries startingI have a 1990 Ford F150...won't start. I have fire to the top of the distributor and to the button on the bottom side of the dist, cap but when i put it all back together I get no
i doubt it's in the column... check the wires on your starter again, if they rattled loose and are touching they will crank the starter
Posted on May 31, 2009
we have 1998 ford f15 we replaced the ignition and it still wont start the truck,, the key turns over now and the radio and everything comes on but it wont start, what is wrong???
Posted on May 09, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 1990 Ford
first of all could i just ask that when you start it say first thing in the morning does it run perfect and drive perfect until the engine warms up, let me know as it narrows things down a bit for me.
if it dont run better from cold then if you know how to take the air filter out could you take it out and put the air box back together then start it up and see if that makes any difference, then let me know if it changes the problem at all let me know if it makes it worse or any better or if it stays the same.
the main problem is without doing a diagnostic check you could end up throwing hundreds of pound or dollars down the car spares shop and still not solve the problem as the fault could be 1 of a number of possible causes or couple of things at fault.
if it runs perfect from cold then plays up when engine is warm then it could be things such as the oxygen sensor(lambda sensor for its proper name) but their is more than one so without the test you would not know what to change, it could also be the cat converter if you have one fitted.
if how ever the problem is their all the time even from cold start then the problem could be things such as mass air flow sensor ( this is why i said try taking the filter our as this increases the air flow) it could also be dodgy fuel, blocked injectors, faulty vac pipe or even worse case a faulty ecu.
let me know what happens with what i told you to try then it may narrow the problem down a bit.
also try leaving the fuel filler cap off because if the breather from the tank is blocked then this would cause a vacuum in the tank and it would restrict the fuel flow.
try all the things seperate then let me know then ill do my best to assist you further ok
Posted on Oct 12, 2010
Set the engine to the number one compression,and bring the timing mark to zero on the harmonic balancer.(or just bring the timing on the harmonic to zero). mark to match the plug wires to cap,remove the cap.(if you can remove the cap without removing plug wire) mark the rotor position to the engine using a scribe, mark the rotor to the distributor, mark the distributor to the engine using a scribe,Take the lock down bolt out and pull out distributor. when you reinstall line up all your marking and check timing.
Posted on Mar 08, 2012
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