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The Water Inlet Valve on your washing machine is used to fill the tub with cold, warm or hot water for the wash and rinse cycles. The valve is operated by electric solenoids that are controlled by the timer or electronic control board and the water level control/water level selector switch or pressure switch. If your washer continues to fill during a cycle, the water inlet valve could be at fault. To verify that the valve is at fault, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then the water inlet valve is defective. If the washer stops filling, then the problem is related to the electrical circuit that controls the valve. The water level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak or is plugged, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill.
To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level pressure switch may be defective. Inspect the switch for signs of a mechanical defect or debris plugging the hole in the inlet nipple. To test the switch contacts for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to apply the proper amount of air pressure to the air dome tube and then look for the switch to go open circuit at that level. The easiest way to do this is to start the washer and allow it to fill to the normal level and then remove the power cord. Locate the pressure switch and remove the wires from the correct terminals and then perform the continuity test. There should be infinite resistance or an "open circuit" when the water level is correct. If not, then the switch is defectiv
code p 0028 refers to intake valve control solenoid circuit , bank 2 ---range performance problem===causes--wiring ---intake valve control solenoid
this solenoid controls the advance / retard of the valve timing for the inlet valve camshaft and will account for the idle problem and the engine light
take it to an accredited service center who has experience on your make of vehicle and have the wiring checked or the solenoid replaced
you don't specify petrol or diesel ! If it's petrol (sorry gas ) I would suspect the A.I.C valve requires checking and possibly cleaning, this is the Automatic Idle Control valve, Usaully situated on the inlet manifold close to the throttle body, Cheers
I haven't personally worked on the Charade before, but the process on all 3 cylinder engines is the same.
The firing order is 1-3-2 and because there is an odd number of cylinders you will never get a situation where the inlet/exhaust valve on cylinder x is fully closed leaving the inlet/exhaust on cylinder y fully open (in contrast to engines with an even cylinder count).
Instead, you just choose whether to start with the inlet or exhaust valves first and then adjust cylinder 1. You then turn the engine over by hand until whichever valves you chose to start with are fully open on no.3 and adjust those and then the same on no.2. Starting again at no.1 you then do the remaining valves, so if you started with the exhaust valves, now you do the inlets.
Hope this helps, if so please return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer.
You're going to lose some coolant, so have a bucket or other container
ready. Follow the upper radiator hose to the point where it's connected
engine. The hose is clamped to a metal housing which is bolted to the
engine. Remove the bolts (not the hose) and lift the housing to expose
the thermostat (may require a little prying with a screwdriver or
similar tool). Note how the old thermostat is fitted (which end is up),
lift it out of the engine, and then remove all traces of gasket from
the housing and the engine. Install the new thermostat and gasket,
replace the bolts, add coolant as necessary, and you're done.