Question about 2003 Mazda Tribute

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I just replaced front struts on 2003 mazda tribute, now it has a bad shimmy at about 45 mph

I just replaced front struts, now i have a bad shimmy at about 45 mph. Wat can i do do to fix this?

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  • Mazda Master
  • 5,280 Answers

Have the alignment checked. Anytime you do front end suspension work, the alignment needs to be checked-it is probably off.

Posted on Nov 18, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Bad catalytic converter(s) ???

let the car run for about 15 min look underneath if the cat is bad its should be glownin

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: 98 mazda millenia shaking front end at 40 mph?? any clues??

try the simple solution first put your front tires on back and back tires on front. check your air pressure then take it for a drive and see if any thing has changed. if so you probably have a badly worn tire. if no change have someone move the steering wheel back and forth wyle you are under the fornt of the car (dont forget to chalk the wheels) and see if any of your steering components are loose/moving. if nothing is loose and your tires are good try to bounce the front end. if you can really get the front of the car going up and down pretty easy you havce bad struts/shocks.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Loud whining noise on left turn (Mazda Tribute 04)

sounds like a wheel bearing maybe faulty from your text it sounds like it could be the osf you could try jacking vehicle up with engine off handbrake applied and in neutral spin the wheel and see if it makes noise or wiggle it to see if it has any play possibly take off greade cap and see if any grease in bearing /

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

  • 275 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Mazda Tribute will start, idle rough for a

check the fuel filter air filter and vacuume lines if they all good make sure the spark plugs are making a bright blue spark

Posted on Jan 20, 2010

  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: Mazda Tribute 2003 ignition switch

My 2001 Mazda Tribute ignition key cylinder was broken and locking up constantly. I would have to jiggle my key for up to 20 minutes to crank the car (it had nothing to do with steering wheel or shifter lock – the cylinder was busted). If at home sometimes I would resort to getting out a sander to vibrate the key while in the ignition and get it to turn. I was ready to take a sledge hammer to the car. I didn’t do any internet research on replacing the key cylinder until today because I figured it would be a big miserable job…but it wasn’t!!! To get to the cylinder, remove the 3 screws on the bottom side of the plastic steering column cover. Remove cover – use a screw driver to pry apart. Turn key to run position (don’t start engine). There is a pin on the bottom of the cylinder which is now exposed- take a small screw driver and push the pin in and pull on key. Cylinder should slide out. Get a new Ford Escape cylinder at the auto parts store (I payed $86, comes with two programmable keys), note: the parts store will not have one for Mazda, but Escape and Tribute are essentially the same car – many Mazda parts you can only get at the dealer for an outrageous price. Now do the following procedure...(note: you must have both original ignition keys for this to work)
1. Get some long needle nose pliers (forceps work best because they lock).
2. Grab the receiver knob that the end of the key cylinder normally engages near the center of the steering column. (Look in the hole that the cylinder was in)
3. Take one of the original ignition keys and insert it into the open cylinder hole alongside the pliers (this simulates the key being in the ignition/cylinder)
4. Push in and turn the pliers (ignition knob) and the first original key at the same time to run position - don't start the engine.
5. Wait for the key light to go off on the dash and turn pliers/key back to off position…note, if key light is flashing, tilt pliers slightly and try again.
6. Repeat with second original key and then the new key. You must go in this order and you must go from one key to the next in 10 seconds or less. This is how the car programs the new key. You may have to try a few times (I had to) and tilt the pliers a bit if they interfere with programming (key light flashing).
7. Once the key light comes on solid for a second or two and goes off with all three keys in a row (not flashing) then you have it. Repeat process with original keys and other new key.
8. Use pliers to align receiver knob to run position and Insert new key cylinder (remember to insert new key in new cylinder and align so cylinder will slide in properly - key should be turned in cylinder to run position).
9. Try out new keys…car should start! Install column plastic cover. You will still need to carry an original key to open the doors unless you fully trust that your keyless entry fob will always work. I would estimate this job to take about 20-30 minutes if you have the tools and new cylinder ready when you start. I was VERY skeptical when I tried this, but it worked great for me and I thank Mike at Cheapfobs.com blog a bunch!!…Good luck with yours!

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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Hi,
Could be tires need balanced. If they were run low on air, they could be worn and need replaced.

Also, front end suspension may need replaced: Struts/shocks, tie rods, ball joints, bushings. A shop can ID these parts to fix.

GL,
Td

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Above 45 mph braking causes a steering wheel vibe/shimmy but no pulling. cars is 2006 3 with 58K miles


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Bad catalytic converter(s) ???


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Still have Shimmy at around 75 MPH. No slow speed shimmy or shimmy during braking. Just replaced the Front Tension Strut bushings with the Powerflex polyurethane ones. What else could be contributing...


Balance your wheels at a good shop. Have the tires checked for out of round/side wear. Are there any sidewall bubbles?

You could have a problem with the wheels themselves...but it is rare.

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