Question about 2002 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

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Where can I find the mercedes C240 radiator fan terminal

I need to check if my c240 radiator fan has gone bad, but I cannot locate the fan terminals so I cnzedike run the test. Can I get any help out there?

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The fastest way to check a radiator fan is to turn on the a\c while idling , this should automatically turn on both fans at once, if they don't come on first check the fuses then the fan relay. If the motors are working when the a/c is on then your thermoswitch has gone bad (its located somewhere on the radiator, look for two wires coming out of it)

Posted on Nov 18, 2013

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SOURCE: How can I test a Mercedes 2002 C240 Cooling fan on the bench?

Connect 2 wires to fan plug, w/ other end of wires touch to battery terminals (disconnect battery to make sure you don't accidentally touch the wires together while doing this, as you can damage the electrical system). When you touch to the batt. terminals, the fan should kick on. If it doesn't, the fan motor is shot, if it does turn on, it is a relay that is bad, not signaling the fan to turn on when it should (as engine temp goes up).

Posted on Feb 28, 2010

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Located lower driver side corner of radiator. To check, a test light will help. Disconnect the harness from sensor, with test light find the power wire. Other terminals will be your low/high temp. circuits. You can use jumper wire from power terminal and connect to to either the low or high. If fans run, could be your sensor that's bad. If no power present on harness to begin, check fuse.

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I have a 2000 Ford Exp running hot when AC is turned on.I replaced the thermostat,heater core,flushed the coolant system and had a block pressure test done.When driving the truck while AC off the truck...


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Physically look in the radiator under the cap for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
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Check all main power electrical connections first....
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Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal

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Physically look in the radiator under the cap for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
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Fan shroud broken or missing....
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Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

COOLING FANS NOT RUNNING
Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. One hot terminal is battery power, and the other is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only one terminal has power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

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1 Answer

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OVERHEATING

Physically look in the radiator under the cap for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, have it boiled out, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
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Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

COOLING FANS NOT RUNNING
Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

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1 Answer

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Connect 2 wires to fan plug, w/ other end of wires touch to battery terminals (disconnect battery to make sure you don't accidentally touch the wires together while doing this, as you can damage the electrical system). When you touch to the batt. terminals, the fan should kick on. If it doesn't, the fan motor is shot, if it does turn on, it is a relay that is bad, not signaling the fan to turn on when it should (as engine temp goes up).

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1 Answer

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