Question about Cars & Trucks
In your worst case your head gasket is blown ( from over heating) I kinda doubt it , depending on how bad it was overheated, (Like driving down the highway at 70mph while your temp needle was pegged to the max for ten miles could be enough to have blown the head gasket. Have that checked by an reputable garage. Your fan relay is probably the reason your fan isn't cooling , I'd check the fuse first then the relay. Your throttle response not being there is usually caused by a bad throttle position sensor (TPS) . The combination of the two symptoms sounds like a blown head gasket from here w\out being there under the hood to check it. I hope it's not, but find a garage you can trust and let them diagnose it, good luck with that..
Posted on Nov 18, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You may have a problem with your MAP sensor. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal is electrically used in a similar way to the use of Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal (although internally it is built differently).
It takes a 5 volt signal from the computer, and returns a lower direct current signal in accordance with the vacuum in the engine. A higher output voltage means lower engine vacuum (which means more air flow is occurring), which is then calculated as “more fuel is needed”. Lower output signal indicates higher engine vacuum (which means lower air flow), which requires less fuel.
It's not just fuel control though. The MAP sensor signal gives the computer a dynamic indication of engine load. The computer then uses this data to control not only fuel injection, but also gear shift and cylinder ignition timing. In some cases it is even used to calculate changes in barometric pressure, to automatically adjust for different altitudes.
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor helps the computer to calculate the flow and mass of the air entering the engine. It does that by measuring the cooling effect of air flow over a heated wire element. The electronic circuit inside the sensor attempts to keep the sensor at a fixed temp.
When it is cooled more by an increased air flow, more current is needed to maintain a constant temperature. The increase in current is converted into a signal to the computer. In most cars this signal would be a high frequency signal. Not as high as a radio wave, but much faster changing than the (relatively) slow frequency of the Oxygen sensor.
During low air flow rates, such as at engine idle, the MAF sensor produces a lower frequency signal. During high air flow rates, such as at wide open throttle-road load, the MAF sensor increases the frequency. The control module then converts these frequencies into their corresponding Grams-Per-Second values.
The MAP or Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor is a little though expensive device installed in your air intake hose or piping, or installed on the firewall and connected to the manifold with a thin hose. It has 5 or 12 Volts coming in, and it simply senses the vacuum in the manifold and attenuates (reduces, weakens) this incoming voltage by a certain factor. In other words it reduces the voltage in the range of 15% to 60% of the supply voltage (depending on the car's design these numbers will vary), and this varying (but non-pulsing) signal goes to the computer. Too much attenuation kills the engine, it will simply shut off. Yet if you control it correctly you can lean down the mixture from the stoichiometric (a big word that simply means “balance of ingredients”) which is factory set at 14.7:1 (14.7 parts of air to 1 part gasoline) – down to 20:1, maybe even 50:1 or 100:1.
Good luck and hope this helps, in short: you may have a bad MAP sensor and may needs to be replaced.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
Buy throttle body cleaner at your local parts store. Take the big intake hose off that is connected to the throttle body and air filter housing. Open up the butterfly (like you're controling the throttle at the engine). Spray this cleaner inside the throttle body, around the butterfly, where it motions back and forward on the pin. You will see a lot of carbon build up run out. Do this 2-3 times. It doesn't take a lot to clean it, just a couple of quick sprays. Wipe it clean with a clean cloth or rag. Put it all back together. It will seem hard to start for a few turn overs, but this is from the cleaner and it will dry out quick. What happens is, over time this carbon builds up where the butterfly closes and it gets (stuck) on this build up, which causes you to push harder on the gas pedal or it will not close completely. They charge will charge you like $250+ to do this and usually it's just build -up. Try it and let us know how it works for you. The cleaner $5
Posted on Jan 27, 2010
SOURCE: overheating on ford bantam
there are three probable causes that may result to overheating one inadequate circulation of coolant within the cooling system. The radiator is clogged with dirt some stems are closed.try to flush the radiator using rad flushing fluid. Second improper bleeding of trap air within the cooling system. Third the water pump blades are worn out inadequate circulation of coolant.
Posted on Feb 02, 2010
Check your TPS Throttle positioning sensor. Sounds like it has a dead spot in it or it is failing. May also be a wiring harness issue or loose connection at TPS too! If its intermittent then it will soon go out completely. It should be located on your fuel pedal. Remove it and check it with an ohm meter. Check resistance all the way thru from 0-100 percent. When it is not working it should do nothing and show no resistance. When it is working the resistance value will increase and or decrease as you turn the sensor.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
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