Question about 2006 Chevrolet Colorado
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem to the T. I look online for all the same solutions and I can only tell you what worked for me. Actually what I think worked, HAHA! I went out to my truck and unplugged both battery terminals from battery and placed them together to supposedly reset the electrical system, "so I was told." After this for about 20 min or so, I went back out and in this order; re-installed positive terminal followed by negative terminal to battery. After this I checked locks and windows and surprise they worked. I've seen a lot of people say that all they did was wait and they worked later, so maybe it was that and not what I did, but who cares, they work now. Give it a shot and if it works for you, GREAT let me know, I HATE CHEVY CAUSE OF THIS......they wanted me to pay for a stupid diagnostic before they would help me........well screw you I fixed myself. LATER
Posted on Mar 06, 2009
Hello Geek beak.
No belt, the Colorado uses a timing chain setup.
If you have further questions regarding this, please ask me here.
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Posted on Jan 28, 2011
SOURCE: i have a 2006 chevy
The temperature you see on the dash board gauge is not necessarily the actual temperature of the coolant. The engine has a 'coolant sensor' which sends information to the electronic control unit (ECU /PCM) and there is a separate 'sender' which governs the gauge reading you see on the dash board. The sender usually has just one wire connected to the top of it. The sender is basically a heat dependent resistor and the temperature gauge simply reads this resistance. Sometimes corrosion in the electrical connector can inhibit the correct readings, so first disconnect the sender and inspect/clean the pin with a little wire wool. Now check the coolant. First put the interior heater on maximum heat. Run the engine up to working temperature and then squeeze all rubber hoses to help shift any trapped air. Top up the coolant if the level drops when air pockets have been shifted.
The following sequence should occur when the engine is warming up.
1) When cold the engine has higher then normal revs. This is due to the coolant sensor (not sender) telling the ECU that the engine is cold and that the injectors should add more fuel to compensate for the cold condition of the engine.
2) Within about a minute the idle revs begin to drop as the coolant sensor detects the engine warming up
3) After about 5 minutes the thermostat should open. You can detect yourself this by feeling the top rubber radiator hose getting hot.
4) If you have an electric cooling fan on the radiator this should switch on about now. If you have a fan driven by a viscous clutch this will engage a little later.
5) after about 2 more minutes the face of the radiator should be becoming hot and the bottom rubber radiator return hose should become warm, then hot.
If you have an electric fan and it fails to come on then check the electric relay and fuse for it. Viscous clutch fans should always show some resistance when turned over by hand when the engine is off, if it spins freely then the clutch coupling is faulty and it will need to be replaced. A sign of faulty fan related over-heating is a car than runs at normal temperature when cruising on the freeway but overheats when standing at the lights; fan engagement is to compensate for the lack of air flow across the radiator core when the vehicle is stationary.
I hope the above helps
Posted on Jun 18, 2011
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