Question about 2010 Nissan Titan Crew
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
They should be replaceable w/o pulling the axle. Imagine a common nail; you have the shank of the nail with its point and the flat head on the other end. Your lug stud looks a little like that except the part that comes through the axle flange. It is a little larger than the threaded part and has "lateral lines" machined into it to grip inside the flange. Otherwise it would spin either way when you tried to tighten or remove it. To get the broken ones out, use a high quality flat end punch and a hammer to drive them backwards (toward the center of your differential) and eventually out of the flange. Look for the area that will give you the most room so they will not hit aything while they are backe out of the flange. The new studs can be installed in the reverse manner. When you get them just barely started through the flange, use your fingers to twist them back and forth to "feel" for the grooves where the old stud was seated. Once you get it barely started in the grooves, grease the threads, slip an old 1/2 inch drive socket over the new stud (make sure it doesn't fit tight) slip on a thick flat washer or 2--3 thin ones, turn your lug nut around backwards so the tapered end faces out and begin to tighten it. Go slow, make sure the new stud pulls through the flange evenly. Take the nut, washers and socket off every now and then and look at your progress. When the back side of the stud is seated on the back of the flange, you're finished. Now, always grease the studs. ALL OF THEM, EVERY WHEEL. The monkeys that put on tires these days use impact wrenches and if you just have to let them do it, grease will help you loosen the nut if you have to and it will help prevent future failures. A DRY stud and nut causes a twisting motion to take place in the body of the stud when its tightened. This leads to premature metal fatigue.
Posted on May 03, 2009
SOURCE: What are the torque specs
the torque are not mention out side any authorised workshop for that you need to visit the nearest authorised dealer or service centre & leave the rest of work to them without any hazard or trouble or either can start from a torque of 25 to 45 lbs. do not exeed the limit or other wise the nut or even the Axel can get broken in the prossess of facinating it so till then my friend have happy motoring & see you soon.!
Posted on May 08, 2009
Two choices. Find an axle assy from a wrecked truck, or if your ring/pinion gears are OK, install Detroit Locker TrueTrac to replace spider gears. Good luck.
Posted on Nov 25, 2009
This failure has NO temporary fix, it is caused by the front axle "C" clip retainer failing, in the process it destroys the front differential, this is a factory defect and has been reported by 100's of 2004-2006 Titan owners, a new front differential assembly is required to fix the failure, sorry to give the bad news, what I would do is contact the local Nissan dealer and see if the factory will help with the cost of the repair or contact the Nissan customer service hotline number in your owners manaul, it is a pattern failure and I believe it has been reported to the US Department of Transportation Safety Board.
Below you will find a link to Nissan truck owners Forum, the entire thread is about the axle problems, I would read it if i were you.
Posted on Nov 19, 2010
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Dana 50 Front Axle
Observe the following torques;
* Left and Right drive axles-to-cross member: 120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203 Nm)
* Axle arm-to-radius arm: 180-240 ft. lbs. (244-325 Nm)
* Coil spring insulator: 30-70 ft. lbs. (41-95 Nm)
* Upper spring retainer: 13-18 ft. lbs. (18-24 Nm)
Dana 60 Front Axle
Observe the following torques;
* Drive shaft-to-flange: 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)
* Track bar nut and bolt: 160-200 ft. lbs. (217-271 Nm)
* Stabilizer link nut: 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-41 Nm)
* Stabilizer barU-bolt: 50-65 ft. lbs. (68-88 Nm)
* Spindle connecting rod-to-knuckle: 70-100 ft. lbs. (95-136 Nm)
* Front spring U-bolt: 95-100 ft. lbs. (115-135)
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