Check fuel filter also check for ele.shorts
SOURCE: rattling from the engine when I start the 2006 V6 Sonata
Do you have the air conditioning on when you hear this rattle? If so, it could the clutch for the a/c compressor. You may also want to check the status of the idler pulley on the serpentine belt. Hope this helped and best wishes.
SOURCE: Hyundai Sonata 2006 - Check Engine light came on.
"Fuel system too lean at idle". It's an air/fuel ratio that is not correct, possibly a vacuum leak somewhere. Or a leaky exhaust pipe. Could be related to intake manifold gasket. Somewhere, air is getting into the engine.
I suggest taking it back to the dealer under warranty. I think Hyundai is 10yr./100k for the original owner. 5yr./50k if not. Ask first if covered, and ask why not id not covered.
SOURCE: The car sustarted fine, but suddenly shut down as
Several things could be the cause:-
Before looking at the list below ensure that the throttle body interior is spotlessly clean and that the air ducting and all vacuum lines are free of leaks. Check all relays and fuses
On the fuel line on the engine there is Shrader valve (like the one for the tire). It is possible to check fuel pressure at this point with a gauge. If there is insufficient pressure here then this points to a possible fault with either the fuel pump, its relay or its fuse.
The electrical connector to the IACV
can have 2 or 4 pins:- 2
pins: resistance between pins should about 10 OHMS +/- 3 OHMS. Resistance between either of the pins and the
valve body is greater than 10,000 OHMS 4
pins: resistance between diagonally positioned pins should be about 20 OHMS 3
pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is
'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'.
A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the
'signal' pin. It is important that the voltage
measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20
minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature.
Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise. I appreciate here that due to a lack of starting in your case it just might be impossible to check the 'warmed up' situation. I hope this helps.
1) Idle air control - The idle air control is closely associated with the throttle body. Its function is to bleed air to the inlet manifold past the closed throttle plate. There are teo types of throttle control a) a motor that opens the throttle plate a tiny amount b) an auxiliary passage opened by a valve around the closed throttle plate How to check? Physically remove the IACV but keep the electrical
connection to it. Turn the engine on and
examine the IACV valve movement in response to additional loads (power steering
inputs etc). The valve should open and
close according to demand causing perceptible change in engine speed with
increased power demand being made on the engine.
2) Throttle position sensor - Sometimes with ignition off it is possible to reset the TPS by depressing the accelerator fully and releasing quickly. Ignition might be enhanced by depressing the the throttle slowly. If the car cuts out if the accelerator is depressed quickly this is another indicator of a bad TPS. How
to check? The socket for
electrical connection with the TPS has 3 pins, one for 'ground', one for 5
volts 'reference' and a third (generally the middle one) for 'signal' output.
Back probe the signal pin in the connector to the TPS. Attach the positive lead of a voltmeter to
the probe and measure the voltage output as the throttle plate is rotated. If
working correctly the meter should show a voltage consistent with the throttle
position from approximately 1 volt when closed and 5 volts when fully open.
What is looked for is smooth
voltage increase with throttle change.
If there are drop outs in the transition or that there is no transition seen
the TPS is faulty.
3) cam or crank sensor faults -
2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure
a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.
Testimonial: "Thank you very much!! I will check into it."
SOURCE: 2006 silverado 5.3.Starter drive is slow to
Hello
Unfortunately you most have a problem with the flex-plate (flywheel on manual transmissions) it is either bent or cracked (common) or the teeth on the flex-plate are damaged or both, it is the only thing that causes this problem other than the starter drive being defective, and since you indicated the starter has been replaced and the problem still exists then the flex-plate is the problem. To change the flex-plate the transmission must be removed from the truck, to do this disconnect the negative battery cable then remove the starter and support the transmission with a floor jack, then remove the drive shaft from the truck, next remove the wire connector to the transmission and the shift cable and the transmission cooler lines, drop the rear mount that supports the transmission and move it out of the way, remove the lower cover over the flex-plate and remove the bolts that secure the flex plate to the Torque Converter (you will need to rotate the engine to get the bolts out) next lower the rear of the transmission down far enough to see and remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the engine block, make sure in on last check that all is disconnected from the transmission and drop the transmission down and pull it out from under the car, install the new flex plate and torque the bolts to 45 foot pounds, use new bolts.
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