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I have changed computer all sensors rebuilt throttle body , put in new fuel pump all new fuel lines and vacuum lines new alternator new starter and new fuel filter and when I plug up the alternator the truck will just start and die when the alternator is unplugged it will run great .... Can anyone tell me why it won't run with the alternator plugged in its a 1988 dodge d150 318 ci 2 wheel drive with automatic transmission

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Odd,usually if a dodge starts then stalls the ballast resistor is bad,just put a jumper wire across the 2 terminals(white cermic block on the firewall,2 wires) if it runs then replace the ballast only other thought is,have an ammeter? check the back of the gauge,sometimes they burn up and kill the whole system.
Don't quite understand why unplugging the Alt. would matter but check these 2 things anyway.

Posted on Nov 17, 2013


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SOURCE: 1999 Yukon cold start problems.

1999 Yukon Start Issue - I have replaced the octopuse, battery, fuel filter, fuel pump, still having problems starting in cold weather, sometimes after a heavy rain.

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Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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SOURCE: 1997 dodge dakota v6 engine wont start replaced

turn the key to the on position a see if you can here a buzzing sound around the fuel tank,if you don't hear a sound then. (be very careful while doing this) with the key off take a fuel line coming from the tank loose,make sure its pointed away from you and turn the key to the on position,see if any gas comes out,if not then your fuel pump is probably bad.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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SOURCE: 87 chevy truck with TBI idles too fast

Spray the intake with carb cleaner to find the vacuum leak. Check where the EGR mounts and the throttle body gasket sense you had both off.

Posted on May 10, 2009

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SOURCE: 1987 Chevy Suburban 350 2wd not starting or running right

What size engine do you have in it? And, how many miles on it?? Well, I guess it really doesn't matter. At first thought it sounds like you are experienceing a fuel problem, and changing the throttlebody didn't solve your problem. I would start by looking and checking my fuel delivery system. The fact that you had to spray gas into the throttlebody tells me that fuel is not getting there. I would start with the least expensive thing to fix first. Check your gas filters. These are often , OFTEN, overlooked as a sorce of problems, and are rarely changed and often overlooked, and are the problem alot of the time. If that dosen't cure your problem check your fuel pump. Make sure it is delivering the proper pressure. I would bet your problem would be solved, but if it's not then next I would check the electrical components of your fuel system.

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 F250 5.8L wont idle correctly,runs bad and smokes of fuel

check to see if the ground wire from the battery to the engine is tight if the cable is loose it will cause the injectors to flood the egine

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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1995 chevy tahoe 4wd. 5.7 liter when cooled down, starting is normal . Right after, engine almost stalls but Idle air control kicks in and keeps it running. eventually it is idling but rouph. On...

If your vehicle has one, and I think it does, check your EGR system. If the egr valve is full of carbon, it can be partially open, creating a vacuum leak. If the egr valve solenoid is bad, it could be opening the valve at the wrong time, also creating a vacuum leak. Unplug the egr vacuum hose, plug the open end of the hose and start it and see what it does. A picture of the egr is below.

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Hi It is almost impossible to get my 86 1.6L Nova to start after being shut off for several hours (overnight) I put a new fuel pump & filter on which didn't help then put an electric pump on. Still...

Under hood fuel lines, touching coolant or heater hoses.
Fuel lines under vehicle close to or not shielded from exhaust pipe, converter, muffler. Fuel lines pinched or crushed.
Fuel filter changed recently.
Fuel pump pressure. Fuel pressure regulator & Fuel pressure sensor.

The age of your vehicle also guarantee's a vacuum leak. It may sound silly but the truth is rubber grommets, and hose's shrink and dry out over time and the harsh environment under the hood makes it worse. Check all vacuum lines and fittings attached to the intake manifold, valve covers (pcv valve), and be sure to check for a vacuum fitting on top of the intake just behind the throttle body. Does it fit tight in the hole? You can seal loose fittings with a high-temp RTV (Red) silicone sealant/adhesive. Several small leaks add up and your engine, heat/AC, and transmission will be all to glad to tell you about it.

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Do I have to take the top in take manafold off to tighten the lower intake manafold on a 1993 buick regal 3.8 L engine?

Yes you do, the following info explains the necessary procedure.

Click here to enlarge image.
Click here to enlarge image.

  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place a clean drain pan under the radiator, open the drain **** and drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the fuel injector sight shield.
  4. Disconnect the cables from the throttle body and mount bracket.
  5. Remove the coolant recovery reservoir.
  6. Remove the inner fender electrical cover on the right side.
  7. Remove the right rear crossover pipe heat shield.
  8. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and from the cable bracket.
  9. Remove the alternator and brace.
  10. Remove the throttle body cable mounting bracket with the vacuum lines and disconnect the vacuum lines.
  11. Tag and detach the electrical connections at the throttle body and both banks of fuel injectors.
  12. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the canister purge solenoid valve and transaxle module and intake connection.
  13. Unbolt the power steering pump and move forward. DO NOT disconnect the fluid lines.
  14. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires position lay aside.
  15. Disconnect the coolant bypass hose from the intake manifold.
  16. Remove the solenoid valve mounting bracket and power steering support brace from the intake manifold.
  17. Disconnect the heater pipes from the intake and front cover.
  18. Remove the alternator support brace from the intake.
  19. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the housing.
  20. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat from the intake.
  21. Detach the electrical connector from the temperature sensor and sensor switch.
  22. Unfasten the intake manifold bolts, then remove the manifold as an assembly. Remove and discard the gaskets.
  23. If separating the upper manifold from the lower, proceed as follows:
  24. Remove the fuel rail and fuel injectors.
  25. Detach the coolant sensor switch.
  26. Remove the manifold end cap cover.
  27. Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body assembly from the lower manifold. Remove and discard the gaskets. To install:
  28. Thoroughly clean all gasket mating surfaces.
  29. If replacing the upper manifold, proceed as follows:
  30. Apply a 1⁄16 in. bead of Loctite® Instant Gasket Eliminator 51845 or equivalent to the lower manifold mating surface. Make sure to circle all bolt holes.
  31. Carefully lower the upper manifold and throttle body assembly onto the lower manifold.
  32. Tighten the upper manifold retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
  33. Install the manifold end cap cover and the coolant sensor switch.
  34. Install the fuel injectors and rail to the manifold assembly.
  35. Clean the mating surfaces and install the intake manifold gaskets and seals. Apply sealer to the ends of the of the intake manifold seals.
  36. Position the intake manifold and apply a suitable thread lock compound to the bolt threads. Tighten the retaining bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm), twice, in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure.
  37. Attach the electrical connector to the temperature sensor and sensor switch.
  38. Install the thermostat housing and thermostat with a new gasket.
  39. Connect the alternator support brace to the intake.
  40. Install the solenoid valve mounting bracket and power steering support brace to the intake manifold.
  41. Connect the heater pipes to the intake and front cover.
  42. Attach the coolant bypass hose to the intake manifold.
  43. Install the power steering pump support bracket and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  44. Install the spark plug wires on both sides.
  45. Install the belt tensioner pulley and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  46. Install the power steering pump.
  47. Connect the vacuum hoses to the canister purge solenoid valve and transaxle module and intake connection.
  48. Attach the electrical connections at the throttle body and both banks of fuel injectors.
  49. Install the alternator and brace.
  50. Connect the throttle body cable mounting bracket with the vacuum lines.
  51. Install the right rear crossover pipe heat shield.
  52. Install the cables to the throttle body.
  53. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel rail and mount bracket.
  54. Install the inner fender electrical cover on the right side.
  55. Install the coolant recovery reservoir and upper radiator hose. Fill the cooling system.
  56. Install the air cleaner assembly and the fuel injector sight shield.
  57. Connect the negative battery cable.

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1 Answer

I have a 2000 Kia Sephia. that will start and then die. New starter, alternator and battery. Any thoughts?

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93 Chevy Sub new rebuilt motor and trans, new fuel pump, filter, idle sensor and pressure reg, still will not idle. I can put fuel in throttle body to get started and as long as I keep the idle up it will...

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I hope this may have helped,

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