Question about 2007 Jeep Compass Limited
How long in hours to do the job
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The only parts you need are the ball joints, upper and lower, a total of 4, if you need all 4. As far as tools, you'll need wrenches, a removal and installer tool, the ball joints are pressed into the control arms, and a ball joint to steering knuckle seperator tool.Without those special tools, you will never get them changed, if you do it yourself.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
The ball joint in a Jeep Compass is pressed in, at least on 4 wheel drive models, into the lower control arm. The only company (as of today) that makes these ball joints individually is Moog. They are about 50 dollars a piece and are part number k500063 (this is what I got for my compass 2.4 with 4 wheel drive cvt). The parts store should be able to find the proper part for your specific vehicle. Before you order your ball joints individually, make sure to check the bushings on the control arm, because, at least on my model, the bushings were not available individually, so I needed the complete control arm, which includes the ball joint.
To press out the ball joint, it is easiest to remove the lower control arm from the vehicle. This is a good time to replace your front pads and rotors if they are worn, or are close to needing replacement since you have to do most of the job anyway.
To free up some space, I usually start by unbolting the brake caliper from the steering knuckle and zip tie it to the spring of the strut, making sure not to let it dangle by the hose. The caliper is held in place by 2 18 millimeter (head) bolts. DO NOT remove the hose unless you want to bleed the brakes. DO NOT press the brake pedal unless you want to have to reset the calipers/ potentially buy new ones if they jam.
Then I remove the brake disc. All that should be holding it in place is the rust on the back side holding it to the wheel hub. Figure out a way to remove it without hurting yourself or the disc if you plan on re-using it.
The tie rod must be removed from the steering knuckle as well to give mobility to the strut/steering knuckle assembly so that you can get the control arm out of the vehicle. The tie rod end is held into the steering knuckle using an 18 millimeter nut.
The shaft of the ball joint is held into the steering knuckle using a clevis bolt. The bolt has an 18 millimeter head and so does the nut. Once you get the clevis bolt out the only thing holding the ball joint into the knuckle is friction. You can coax it out using a little bit of downward force.
The control arm will still be held onto the car by two bolts. The one to the front of the car is I believe a 19 millimeter hex head flange bolt that goes through the front bushing and into a captive nut in the front subframe.
The rear of the control arm is held on by a through bolt that has a 21 mm head, as does the nut that is on the bolt.
The control arm should be free at this point. To remove it, start at the front end of the control arm and pull toward yourself (the side of the car). It should pivot at the rear and the front should come free. Then pull the rear out of its seat.
Now you should be able to use a ball joint press tool to press the joint out of the control arm using a loan a tool from somewhere like advance auto parts (they have the most comprehensive ball joint kit that I have seen). You simply charge it to your credit card or give them cash as if you were purchasing it, which you could do if you wanted to buy a used tool, and then bring it back when you are done and they give you your cash back or refund your card. This service is also available at several other parts stores.
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
If both the ESP [Electronic Power Steering] and Airbag lamp are on then first I would check to see if something such as an electrical connector may have gotten unhooked down by the tie rod ends. The system isn't seeing the data it should, or is seeing some data it doesn't like, and has turned on both of these warning lamps as a result. I have seen similar problems occur if the steering shaft was disconnected from the steering gear and inadvertently turned a revolution or two before being reconnected. If no wiring problems are found then the system will need to be checked/tested using a scan tool to narrow down what has happened. Hope this helps and good luck!
Posted on Jul 28, 2010
SOURCE: how big of a job
Jeep actual made this pretty easy to do.
Remove the caliper and rotor.
Remove the axle nut.
Remove the three bolts that secure the wheel bearing to the knuckle.
Remove the wheel bearing.
The axle will slide out the opening of the knuckle that the wheel bearing sits in.
Posted on May 04, 2011
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