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YOU dont need a diagram for twin carbys as put them on the manifold back off all throttle linkage and adjustment screws make sure thay are all down, and turn both screws down till they touch, now back off the jets nuts under the carbys and then undo them 2 turns only[thats the ones the choke move up and down] now HB on out of gear a little choke start engine adjust 2 screws 1 more turn each and choke in
make sure you have very thin oil in pistons, then when running adjust jets 1flat at a time when it runs smooth lock up the linkage and adjust screws till idle at 600 RPM.
You could try a can of carb cleaner and run it through, it sounds like maybe your choke isn't working quite right. Make sure you give the linkage a good soaking as well and then sprat it with a lube like WD-40 to keep it working freely.
A tune up would help too, plugs and wires for sure. Take a close look inside the distributor cap.Pitting on the contacts or the rotor means they should be replaced as well. The same with the points and condenser. Pitted or burnt points need to come put.When replacing them, set the gap and turn the engine over and re-check the gap. They often need to be reset, especially in older engines that have a little play in them.
You may also need to consider rebuilding the carb. Although there are DIY kits available you may want to consider taking it to a good shop. If you tackle it yourself pay very close attention the how it comes apart, especially the choke linkage. It will go together more than one way but it won't work right if you get it wrong. Also check the throttle linkage for play. If the shafts for the lower butterflies flop around in their holes you will need to get that fixed. There are kits to bush these shafts, but you will need a drill press to get them drilled properly. Play here lets extra air into the carb and makes it hard to get the idle set right because it bypasses the design features to regulate the gas. If you do tackle it yourself there is no such thing as close enough in rebuilding a carb. Your measurements must be exact.
My Chilton book says you could have either a Carter or Motorcraft carb. You will need the carb number to get a rebuild kit. It should be on the side of the carb, usually the driver's side on the float bowl or throttle body. It's possible it may be on a tag attached to it but that is likely long gone by now. It should be a 4 or 5 digit number that will include letters if it's a Motorcraft. Hope this helps.
1. check for a vacuum leak / bad -cracked hose.
2. check chock and chock linkage.
3. check carb butterflies are free to move fully.
4. check all carb linkage is free when you have your "cold air intake" on and the intake is clear and not obstructed.
5. how dose it run with out the "cold air intake" ?
6. did anything fall into the carb while making the repair?
It could be several things. It's quite possible that lack of use has made them hard to open. If that's the case then a little penetrating oil and some gentle persuasion will get them working. The top butterflies work on vacuum so you will have to push on them by hand.
It could be that the vacuum pot on the front passenger side of the carb is not working properly.It should connect by a short vacuum line to the top of the carb on the same side. Unplug the hose from one end, stick a finger over it so you don't lose vacuum. There is a long rod off the back of it that goes to the secondary's that should slide when you unhook and hook it back up.
The linkage on the driver's side should move the lower butterflies. Work the throttle linkage by hand, with the car off, and see if they will open. If they don't then liberally spray the linkage with something like WD-40 and work it back and forth. Spray both sides of the carb at the base and in the middle to lubricate the shafts for the butterflies. Work the linkage and spray and it should free up. Make sure that someone hasn't bent the tab that pushes the secondary's open, out of the way.
If the carb has been worked on lately, especially the choke linkage there are lockouts there. If the choke linkage has been taken off and put back on, these lockouts may not be in the right positions. There is a small tab that drops down when the choke is engaged but it can flop around if not correctly installed. You will need a diagram to get the linkage on properly. Most any rebuild kit for that age carb will have a picture of it.
These are your most likely problems. Hope this helps.
To set carb adjustment, first set timing correctly, then put both a vacuum gauge and tach on the engine. adjust one idle screw to highest vacuum reading and highest tach reading, then do the other one. go back to the first and re-adjust again, then the other. I find that if you have a mechanical screw or a solenoid that holds idle speed on the linkage, turn them back so that engine is idling at the lowest possible rpm without stalling before making adjustments, then when finished, bring idle rpm up to recommended rpm using those. On an older carb, usually the idle screw covers have already been removed. If not, you need to remove them before you begin, usually best done with carb on a bench.