Question about Cars & Trucks
1985 chevy front brakes stick after sitting for a few days
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You will find the clip for the front brake hose inside the frame.
Remove it and pull the hose out to remove it from the steel brake line.
The other end will have 2 gaskets at the caliper end....one above and below the hose connection.
Once the new hose has been installed.....open the bleeder on the caliper and remove all air as fluid flows into the new parts.
Only new fresh brake fluid should be added to the master cylinder to replace lost fluid.
Do not expose brake fluid to air for long periods.....it will absorb moisture.
You may have to bleed the other front caliper to restore a firm brake pedal.
After your repair hold the brake pedal down for a few minutes...it should not drop down.....and also inspect for leaks before moving the vehicle.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
check fuse and switch for heater if good check power to blower motor at heater core if power remove blower motor and check housing for debris (leaves etc)and blower motor for proper turning unit may need to be lubed if hard to turn or seized if seized and oil/lube not working replace blower
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
First you must look closely at the caliper and determine if it is sticking on the slide or is the piston sticking. If it is the piston you would have to rebuild the caliper or replace the caliper. If it is the slides, you need to sand and clean all the slide contacts and lube the slide with lithium grease or never seize grease. Then you can reinstall the caliper and you will be fine. Also when checking if the piston is sticking try loosening the line and see if it retracts, if it does you may have a bad flex hose going to the caliper holding pressure on the caliper.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
soft, squishy is air. I know you said that you bled the brakes, but i have had this time and time again, and until i have physically seen someone attempt to bleed the brakes i know why...........
let me give you a hint that i do, forget the one man bleeding kits, they are good for what they are designed for, trying to do everything yourself, which you cant...sometimes you need other peoples help.
1. open the farther most bleed nipple, and pump SLOWLY 4-5 times, close nipple on last down stroke.
2. assistant pump up the brakes
3. as assistant holds pedal, release bleed nipple, and before he/she gets to full travel, close the nipple (this will prevent air entry- as it acts like a vaccuum)
4. repeat 3-4 times
5. do the same at opposite end, working your way to the bleed nipple thats closest to the master cylinder.
NOTE : I am assuming that nothng was wrong with the brakes before-hand
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
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