Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes....it's called rust and corrosion. You'll need to obtain a nice, large, sharp chisel and nice hammer and chisel away and the point where the hub and axle flange meet. Be careful not to chisel the axle flange. The hub/bearing are not pressed in, just difficult to remove. If you have ABS, make sure you don't damage the wire from the hub. Disconnect it from the bearing assembly by pushing down on the top of the spring clip and pulling it out, carefully. The connector will come out of the hub with gentle pulling. You will need alot of patience too when chiseling the bearing out. Use lots of "PB Blaster" penetrating oil as well (available at any auto parts store). Do NOT use WD-40, it sucks and is mostly water. PB Blaster comes in a white spray can with a yellow top. Ask for it by name. Good luck to u.
Posted on Aug 02, 2008
SOURCE: right rear wheel
have a 1996 Neon with the same problem I am currently working on. It did the same thing to me 6 months ago. At that time I changed the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder. Now the problem is back. Pads are still good. I think the problem may be a combination of 2 things. A large lip on the inboard side of the drum and the drum is out of round. The lip is bumping the pads enough to allow the pads to catch and jamb as the smaller diameter of the drum comes around. There is also one area on the inside of the drum that you can see has been hot and left a heat discoloration or scorch mark about 4 inches long. I will see if the drum can be turned. If not I will just replace it. This problem only occurs on wet or slippery pavement at slow speeds. At fast speeds it creates the scorch mark on the inside of the drum.
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
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