Am1 fuse blows 1995 celica

Try disconnecting the starter solenoid control lead and see if it still blows the fuse when no engine crank while switch in start position.

Try disconnecting the alternator and see if symptoms change.

You might also try using a 12V test lamp (or better, a headlamp) in place of the fuse. It may not crank but it allows you to low power circuits without blowing fuses. Observe lamp brightness as you go from run to start. Brightness is relative to current flow.

Comment for further assistance.

You have to check and see if power is getting to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to the start position. Should be a purple wire. Test light will light if power is applied to the start wire. If no power, possible ignition switch/starter relay/wiring problem/defective starter

With that much juice it can only be a few things, starter relay, headlight/highbeams, etc. Your users manual should contain a diagram of the fuse boxes with labels denoting which fuse/relay is for what. If you don't have a user's manual, contact Toyota for your make and model.

it may be that the clutch start switch positive wire is shorted out to a ground, try to bypass the switch and see if the fuse stops blowing, if it does get an ohm meter and check each wire to ground, only the white black wire is grounded.

( one question i have is every time the ignition fuse blows do i need to replace the starter relay? ) NO ! You have a dead short to ground on one of the circuits that fuse feeds. Do you know how to find a short circuit ? Video's on youtube show how. The fuse that blows ,is it IGN - A 40 amp. located in the under hood fuse/ relay center ? That fuse feeds B+ voltage to the ignition switch ,which powers up other thing's ,fuse's etc.. Not just the starter relay ! I see five other fuse's that get power from that fuse when ignition switch is in the start or run position . In the I/P fuse panel the gauges fuse #4 10amp , air bag fuse #10 10amp , turn b/u fuse #16 20amp. , Plus trans fuse #20 10 amp ! Pull out these fuse an try to start the van. if the ignition fuse doesn't blow the problem is in one of these other fuse circuits. There is one more fuse that get's B+ power from the ignition switch and ign A fuse ,crank fuse fuse #8 10amp. this powers the control side of the starter relay .
You can find a free wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine . Under system click engine , under subsystem click starting. Click the search button then the blue link.
If you pull those fuse's i mention and it still blows the fuse look for a shorted ignition switch or wiring from ignition to the starter relay , not the relay itself. Park neutral safety switch . Isolate the circuit , pull the relay out of it's socket ,pull the crank fuse #8 in the I/P fuse box. with a ohm meter check to see if that part of the circuit is shorted to ground. Do you know how to do that ? Do you have a volt ohm meter ? You can buy one cheap at parts store .

The safety switches prevent power to the fuel system and the starter, not the ignition, so that's not your problem..... I would check the crankshaft position sensor and the fuses in addition to making sure that there are no stored codes in the computer and that it is functioning properly.... Good Luck!

I had that same issue today, not sure if you still need the info, but look at the batter terminals, check the positive, and about 3 inches from the battery terminal itself should be a small box containing 3 fuses. ALT, AM1, AM2 ( i beleive they are labeled that way ), either way my 100 AMP ALT fuse was blown out. Replace the blown fuse, try again! Hope that helps!

Did the fuse blow before you changed the switch/ Or did you change the ignition switch for other issues?
The termanels may not be positioned properly on the starter. Does the starter harness have a molded end or is it loose wires? The original wiring has a molded end. There is only a battery cable and a solonoid engagement wire (small one). You're issue is probably the solonoid engagement circuit shorting out. It was real common for the routing of the wiring to the starter to be to close to the exhaust manifold and melt. Or twist when the termanel is tightened on the starter shorting to the starter case. You need to first visually inspect the wiring. Start at the starter and follow it up to the Power distribution center. You should find the issue somewhere in that inspection.
Let me know how this works for you?

check for a blown fusible link between the battery and ignition switch

• a small length of wire inserted in the thinner cable from,

or

• a small black bodied square box inside a case on the side of,

the battery connector, I forget which goes on the celica

check connections to ignition switch
Check/replace ignition switch

not a solution just something to check, fusible links -- fuse