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90 ford bronco get power to lights door locks. But nothing to ints panel or ignition what posssibilitys

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You have a short on the back of fuse panel pull it from the fire wall and look for damage replace if needed

Posted on Nov 18, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

chiquititas
  • 1010 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Ford Bronco door lock actuator

These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your location with front and rear rather then left and right because it depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door. 2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be inserted. Remove screw. 3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the two switches from the trim panel. 4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw. 5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove. 6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier. Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it towards the front of the door stuck on. 7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a ****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator. 11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers, facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch. 12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper. 13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door panel. 14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00. When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock stem.
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

mas66
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: DOOR AJAR LIGHT (bad sensor?)

I'm pretty sure that they are integral to the door lock assembly on that model, would need to replace the whole door lock if that is the case. Best to get the Ford dealer to plug in their computer and check the signals from the door locks to see which one is at fault. Check central locking and power mirror fuses first, if no power to door locks then the door ajar sensors will have no power as well.

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

askjhuber
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: Possible ignition switch problem? 99 Explorer

The door locks wont work when the car is on. Dont spend time chassing this problem beacuse it is tied in with the ignition switch.

Posted on May 16, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Remove door panel on a Ford Van

For a 1999 Ford Econoline 150 (assume the same or very similar), remove triangular plastic cover over mirror assembly by prying straight out, remove plastic door handle cover by prying up from the front side, remove electronic door switches by prying up from back side, remove round plastic cover at bottom rear of door panel. Four screws are now revealed, remove them. Lift door panel straight up, clips are hooks (not snap in). Work door switch assembly out of door panel. Set door panel aside. Reassemble in reverse order.

Posted on Nov 21, 2009

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The interior lights of my 1995 ford bronco will not turn off! help! specifically, this is the situation: The interior light overhead is on, and so is the light in the passenger side door, as well as the...


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Dec 10, 2008 | 1995 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

DOOR AJAR LIGHT (bad sensor?)


I'm pretty sure that they are integral to the door lock assembly on that model, would need to replace the whole door lock if that is the case. Best to get the Ford dealer to plug in their computer and check the signals from the door locks to see which one is at fault. Check central locking and power mirror fuses first, if no power to door locks then the door ajar sensors will have no power as well.

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1 Answer

1996 Ford Bronco door lock actuator


These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your location with front and rear rather then left and right because it depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door. 2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be inserted. Remove screw. 3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the two switches from the trim panel. 4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw. 5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove. 6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier. Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it towards the front of the door stuck on. 7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a ****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator. 11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers, facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch. 12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper. 13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door panel. 14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00. When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock stem.
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.

Jun 18, 2008 | 1996 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

Door actuator 1991 bronco( passenger side)


you need to  take off the inside panel. if i remember correctly its just a couple screws and it should pop off.

Jun 08, 2008 | 1991 Ford Bronco

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